Once again mother nature was not playing ball as I arrived by train into Santiago De Compostela, the capital of the Galicia region of Spain. In fact, it was tipping it down.

The journey direct from A Coruna to Santiago de Compostela took 30 minutes and cost me 8 euros. You are allocated a seat and I immediately noted how spotlessly clean the train was. Some difference from the commuter train to London that I endured for five years of my life.

It’s clear the Spanish take great pride in their transport services as the excellent bus network was the same. What has happened to us in Britain?

Around Town

I was staying on the very edge of the old quarter at the “Hotel Virxe da Cerca by Pousadas de Compostela” – not the sort of name you remember after a few Estrella’s but a guaranteed game-winner for Scrabble! This lovely character hotel was a maze of corridors and gothic art with a beautiful garden terrace complete with about 30 (sadly captive) canaries who were singing their heart out at breakfast.

I arrived early evening so once I had dried out I decided to venture into town. Expect to work your thigh muscles in Santiago de Compostela. It seems every cobbled street in the old town is on a hill or has steps. That should not bother many of the visitors as a large number (many Irish and US) are here to start or end the Camino de Santiago – a religious pilgrimage that takes 30 days for the experienced hiker.

In fact, you can spot the walkers quite easily as they are the super prepared type of traveller. When it rained out came the brightly coloured cagoule which accompanied the telltale backpack and fold-up walking poles. For locals in the Basque Country, there is a beautiful hand-crafted walking stick called the Makila which caught my attention in a shop in Bilbao. It’s a true piece of art however here in Santiago de Compostela they seem to be more Millets than Makila.

The Old Town

The old quarter is beautiful with its Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic architecture along with numerous churches and the most famous building the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela.

The city is also a great place to get lost. I had a map but there are few street names apparent. I was standing at a crossroads looking a little perplexed and I heard some soft Irish voices. I turned to these four ladies, who were complete with Cagoule and Millets (Dublin branch) walking sticks and asked for guidance. Like me they did not have a clue…. some hope they have of completing the Camino de Santiago – I only have to make It back to the train station!

Souvenirs from Santiago de Compostela

Despite the usual tacky souvenir shops selling some religious artefacts to adorn your mantelpiece, I found that the shops here were some of the most interesting I have come across on this trip. For centuries chocolate makers have worked on the city streets so there are many chocolatiers who invite you in to sample their products. Not really a hardship for me!

For clothes and art, there seems to be something a little unique on offer here too. What was lacking was a decent choice of restaurants or bars in the old town so I had to head outside the old quarter to find a reasonable tapas.

Pre-Bookable Excursions

Contact

Santiago de Compostela is not the sort of town you visit to party all night. It’s more about Faith than Faithless! It’s very low key and I reckon a 2-night visit is plenty if you are on a tour. For me, however, I was only here the night as I was moving on to the final destination on my grand tour – the Portuguese city of Porto!

For more information on visiting Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain contact the Galicia Tourist Office or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

A Galician Gem

The city of La Coruña, nicknamed the City of Glass in the Spanish region of Galicia, is locally referred to as “A Coruña”. This is because the region of Galicia has a language called Gallego, a blend of Spanish and Portuguese. Throughout Galicia, you’ll notice that most places have two names – one in Spanish and one in Gallego.

Whatever you decide to call the city, La Coruña is a hidden gem located on the rugged shores of Spain’s northwest coast. I was fortunate to spend a couple of days in La Coruna as part of an adventure earlier this year which started in San Sebastian in the Basque country, before journeying through the beautiful regions of Cantabria, Asturias and then into Galicia.

La Coruña is steeped in history and boasts UNESCO heritage sites, places of religious significance, archaeological museums, impressive architecture, tranquil gardens, coastal walks, stunning beaches, and culinary delights.

Let’s delve a little deeper into this city with its strong maritime history and sun-soaked shores!

The Old Town of La Coruña

To discover the lively atmosphere of La Coruña, head to Maria Pita Square. Named after the city’s heroine who valiantly defended La Coruña against an English invasion in the 16th century, the square is today surrounded by vibrant cafes and shops. Grab a seat, order a café con leche, and savour the blend of history and modernity that defines this dynamic city.

Behind the Maria Pita Square is La Marina Avenue. This pedestrian street overlooks the port which is lined with yet more restaurants and coffee shops. A key feature here is the elaborate glass balconies which earn the city its nickname, the “City of Glass”.

Another popular landmark to visit is the 50-metre-high Millennium Obelisk. As you stroll along the waterfront promenade, take in the elegant design and fine detail of this needle-like structure that was built for the new millennium.

Be sure as you wander around the city to visit some of the many scenic parks and gardens such as the Jardines de Méndez Núñez. Also do not miss exploring the bustling markets like Mercado de la Plaza de Lugo, where you can taste local produce, seafood, and other delicacies.

Torre de Hercules & San Anton Castle

The 1st-century Roman, Torre de Hercules, is the world’s oldest working lighthouse and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This building has withstood the test of time, and you can almost hear the echoes of ancient sailors thanking the gods for a guiding light as you climb the lighthouse’s twisting stairway, which is said to have been erected by Hercules himself.

The San Anton Castle was constructed in the sixteenth century to protect the city from maritime attacks, it currently serves as the home of the La Coruña Archaeological and History Museum. Situated on an island joined by a charming bridge, the castle provides expansive vistas of the Atlantic coast. Visitors can go on a voyage through the nautical history of the area by exploring the centuries-old stories, antiques, and exhibits housed behind its stone walls.

Cultural Attractions

La Coruna offers visitors several places of significant cultural interest.

Visit the Domus, an interactive science museum devoted to the human body and created by renowned architect Arata Isozaki.

The Picasso House Museum offers insights into the renowned artist’s life during his stay in La Coruña.

For art aficionados, the Museo de Belas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) is home to an impressive collection of Spanish art spanning several centuries.

The Beaches of La Coruna

Two of La Coruña’s most celebrated sandy beaches are Playa Riazor and Playa Orzan. Here visitors enjoy sun-soaked shores and vibrant promenades. The beaches are perfect for those looking to sunbathe while those of a more active persuasion can rent a paddleboard or sailing boat, play beach volleyball, or sign up at a surf school.

There are some fabulous coastal walks especially the Paseo Marítimo which is highly recommended.

Sports in La Coruna

As well as the water sports there are plenty of land-based options too. There are cycling paths throughout the city, or you can travel further afield and enjoy breathtaking coastal and mountain trails.

For those with a love of horse riding you can make a visit to a local stable that offer you the chance to take a ride through the breathtaking Galician countryside.

The Golf Balneario de La Toja Golf Course is perhaps the most famous in the region and provides golfers with not only a challenge but also spectacular scenery.

Festivals and Flamenco

Immerse yourself in the vibrant local culture, filled with music, dance, and traditional festivities.

An especially magical event is the Festival of San Juan in June. Join the locals on the beaches and dance to traditional music while bonfires illuminate the night sky.

Spain is famous for Flamenco and here in La Coruña you can find a venue where guitars, vocals and rhythmic clapping fills the air.

The Camino Inglés

La Coruña, along with the neighbouring city of Ferrol, marks the starting point of the famous “Camino Inglés” pilgrimage, also known as the “English Way.” This route offers a shorter and less strenuous journey compared to the more widely recognized Camino de Santiago paths.

Pilgrims from medieval times disembarked here in La Coruna, commencing their pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. If you are planning to go on a pilgrimage through Galicia you will need to decide between starting in Ferrol or La Coruña.

Culinary Delights

La Coruña and Galicia are known for high-quality fresh seafood and regional specialities. Indulge in the local tapas at bustling taverns and embrace the local customs by trying delicious appetizers, such as empanadas stuffed with seafood or even Pulpo a la Gallega, a type of octopus prepared in the Galician style.

If seafood is your thing, then head along to the vibrant fish market at La Lonja, where fishermen raucously sell their daily catch. Further local seafood specialities include gambas a la plancha (grilled prawns), Navajas (razor clams), and Percebes (barnacles).

Be sure to sample the regional wines such as the Galician Albariño which is an ideal accompaniment to those incredible seafood dishes. La Coruna is the home of the Estrella Galicia beer and there is nowhere better to try it than at the Cerveceria Estrella Galicia. This buzzing, atmospheric bar has on-site copper brew kettles, and from its restaurant, wonderful Tapas. This is also a great place to watch sports especially when the Spanish football games are shown. Just prepare for a lively evening!

A Truly Galician Welcome

In La Coruna, you are sure to receive the warmest of welcomes. The locals are known for their friendliness, so be sure to engage in their relaxed pace of life and enjoy the city, the music, the cuisine and just meandering through the streets of the Old Town.

Your dreams won’t be shattered in the city of glass. Far from it, you will, as I did, enjoy a wonderful city break in the gorgeous Galician town of La Coruña.  

Pre Bookable Excursions in La Coruña

Contact Information

For more information on visiting A Coruña in Northern Spain, contact the La Coruna Tourist Office or the Galicia Tourist Office or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

Today I decided to go off piste. I needed nature. I needed less human beings (preferably none). I needed mountains. In Northern Spain the place therefore to go, is the Picos de Europa mountain range. The problem is the Picos de Europa is largely in Asturias and if you ask anyone in the Basque or Cantabria regions they either can’t tell you anything coz they have never been or in the case of the tourism offices I spoke to, they don’t have any information – I would need to speak to the Asturias office.

So getting on a bus in Santander, Cantabria I only had my own research to guide me which, as some of you know, can be a little, shall we say.. thrown together. I knew that, for those visiting this region for walking and hiking, the small town of Cangas de Onis is where you need to go, so that was my target.

Journey to Cangas De Onis

My bus route was the 145 minute journey from Santander to Llanes. Then a 90 minute wait before connecting for another 1 hour journey to Arriondas. Then it was 15 minutes before the short hop of about 8km on a local bus to Cangas de Onis.

Just before I tell you about the journey can I just mention a new pet hate!! People who book a window seat on a bus then spend the whole trip playing Fifa 2022 on their mobile phone thus never looking out of the frigging window! Just saying!

So…. If you look up my first stop – Llanes – you will see a pretty Spanish coastal village. Sadly all I saw in the 90 minutes I was there was two bars – the Bohemia and the Triskel. With luggage I could not venture far from the bus station so I headed to the local Bohemia bar. I asked the young girl if they had WIFI. They did not but rather than offend the locals I ordered a Coca Cola which I must say tastes like it used to in my youth. Why is that? Who is the person in the UK responsible for taking the flavour out of our Coca Cola – I demand to know!!

Sorry this post sounds like a party political broadcast for the miserable old men party. Anyhow – the young girl delivered me my drink accompanied by what it has to be said was the smallest portion of complimentary fries with ketchup I have ever seen. I even took a photo alongside my Nectar card to demonstrate how small it was. With my fat fingers most ended up on the floor but hey a nice touch I thought !

So I really wanted to get onto WIFI as I needed a football score so I went over the road to the Triskel – not because I thought they may be showing Cheltenham v Ipswich in this isolated Spanish coastal town – but for the WIFI. I walked in and I could have been in Dallas as it was country hour and Garth Brookes was belting out “Tomorrow Never Comes” which given where I was heading may have been a premonition!

This time I ordered a beer and got a free soup – I am liking Asturias !! Anyway I could not stop long, so before a Spanish version of the Texas Two Step broke out I decided I best get back to the bus station for the next leg of my journey.

The terrain we were driving through was starting to change…. green rolling hills, picture postcard villages and giant mountains as a backdrop. I was liking what I was seeing! The bus on this leg of the journey had also had an upgrade…I had a TV screen with Wifi, arm rests and a USB port…. I still had the bloke next to me playing FIFA2022 but at least I was occupied.

The next stop was Arriondas. Suddenly the occupants of the bus had all disappeared except a Spanish couple. Actually I am not sure they were a couple as he was a lot older than her and he had crimson red hair and eyeliner… they were a great watch…. however I digress….

Cangas De Onis

Before long I was on the last leg to Cangas de Onis. Just before the three of us arrived I finally caught a glimpse of the Picos de Europa. I was in my happy place as I just love mountains and these are not only big at 2,648 metres but they are spectacular.

For anyone considering taking this journey, the roads have been great – not intimidating or dangerous in any way. I know that’s a thought people will have when considering what I am doing. Tomorrow might me a little different however!

I checked into the lovely Hotel Santa Cruz in the heart of town and rushed out to have a rather uniquely poured cider and some amazing food as the sun was setting. Canis de Onis is a fabulous remote Spanish mountain town where no one speaks English. Its the sort of place where the shops sells knives the size of rolling pins and where the locals consider an entire wild boar as a bar snack. I already love it.

Lets hope the weather holds for tomorrow as I have an exciting day ahead….

Covadonga

Having been woken by the emergency rescue helicopter passing overhead I was slightly concerned that going up into the Picos De Europa National Park in early spring may not be such a wise move. That thought lasted about 30 seconds so off I went to the bus station to catch the Cangas de Onis shuttle bus to a place called Covadonga.

This took just 20 minutes and cost less than 2 euros taking you through a couple of beautiful traditional villages on the banks of the Rio Reinazo River. From here you then get a taxi transit vehicle to the lakes of Covadonga where you have the best views of the Picos de Europa mountains.

I was not expecting Covadonga to be much other than a brief stop but how wrong was I ! This religious mountain site is extraordinary. The centre piece here is the quite stunning Grand Basilica which is made from pink stone quarried from the local mountains. There is also a museum, a holy cave cut into the rock face along with a bar, restaurant and souvenir shop.

On arrival in Covadonga you are delivered to the waiting taxi drivers who charge you 12 euros to take you up to the lakes. Sadly today was cloudy so I was in two minds as to whether to delay my departure by a couple of hours and have a look around Covadonga, but in the end I bit the bullet and went for it along with half a dozen nervous looking Italians. I knew they were nervous as they finally stopped talking as soon as we hit the road….

Picos De Europa

Indeed the journey up is a little treacherous at times with few barriers. The cars coming the other way often have no regard for keeping to the side. Its one of those moments when you just have to man up (Uomo Su in Italian)…. I know that term is frowned upon these days but I am old school and it explains the situation perfectly!

Our driver stopped at a rock that is shaped like an elephant (the usual commercial claptrap but we all looked on in amazement). Then after 30 mins we drove past the first glacial Lake Enol and continued to Lake Ercina which was supposed to have those amazing views of the Picos de Europa. Sadly not today. Mother Nature was not playing ball but that’s OK.

Now out of the vehicle and with my Italian friends chatting again we all had a strict couple of hours here to walk and experience this remarkable area in our own time. The lakes are incredible as were the alpine spring flowers scattered all over the grasslands and the air was as fresh as can be. Where the taxis were parked there is a rustic restaurant serving up various regional Asturias delights… the food in Northern Spain is off the scale!

En route down, the weather was improving and as we pulled over at a popular vantage point we got to witness, high up above, some pretty awesome birds! Once off the party bus my Italian (non) speaking friends said they were eagles. They weren’t! As a five year old lad my favourite movie was Bedknobs and Broomsticks – anyone remember it? Well there was a football match in that movie and I have always remembered as it still makes me chuckle, that the stretcher bearers going on to the pitch to remove the injured, were Vultures! So I know a vulture when I see one circling… or about six in this case !! They were amazing and with the views at the top not so great…these big old birds made my day!

We soon got back to Covadonga allowing me to have some lunch, a wander round plus I almost gatecrashed a nuns room party before thinking better of it – those days are over. I then hopped on the short public bus back to Cangis de Onis. I am so pleased I made the effort to come up here… mountain air makes me happy as does seeing wildlife free and in their natural habitats. If you get the chance come to Asturias, make sure you “Uomo Su” and go see the Picos de Europa… they are incredible even if I didn’t really see them at their best… or at all for that matter.

Contact

For more information on visiting the Picos De Europa in Northern Spain contact the Asturias Tourist Office, or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad