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The Picos De Europa, Asturias

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Cangas-De-Onis-Asturias-Spain
Cangas-De-Onis-Asturias-Spain
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Today I decided to go off piste. I needed nature. I needed less human beings (preferably none). I needed mountains. In Northern Spain the place therefore to go, is the Picos de Europa mountain range. The problem is the Picos de Europa is largely in Asturias and if you ask anyone in the Basque or Cantabria regions they either can’t tell you anything coz they have never been or in the case of the tourism offices I spoke to, they don’t have any information – I would need to speak to the Asturias office.

So getting on a bus in Santander, Cantabria I only had my own research to guide me which, as some of you know, can be a little, shall we say.. thrown together. I knew that, for those visiting this region for walking and hiking, the small town of Cangas de Onis is where you need to go, so that was my target.

Journey to Cangas De Onis

My bus route was the 145 minute journey from Santander to Llanes. Then a 90 minute wait before connecting for another 1 hour journey to Arriondas. Then it was 15 minutes before the short hop of about 8km on a local bus to Cangas de Onis.

Just before I tell you about the journey can I just mention a new pet hate!! People who book a window seat on a bus then spend the whole trip playing Fifa 2022 on their mobile phone thus never looking out of the frigging window! Just saying!

So…. If you look up my first stop – Llanes – you will see a pretty Spanish coastal village. Sadly all I saw in the 90 minutes I was there was two bars – the Bohemia and the Triskel. With luggage I could not venture far from the bus station so I headed to the local Bohemia bar. I asked the young girl if they had WIFI. They did not but rather than offend the locals I ordered a Coca Cola which I must say tastes like it used to in my youth. Why is that? Who is the person in the UK responsible for taking the flavour out of our Coca Cola – I demand to know!!

Sorry this post sounds like a party political broadcast for the miserable old men party. Anyhow – the young girl delivered me my drink accompanied by what it has to be said was the smallest portion of complimentary fries with ketchup I have ever seen. I even took a photo alongside my Nectar card to demonstrate how small it was. With my fat fingers most ended up on the floor but hey a nice touch I thought !

So I really wanted to get onto WIFI as I needed a football score so I went over the road to the Triskel – not because I thought they may be showing Cheltenham v Ipswich in this isolated Spanish coastal town – but for the WIFI. I walked in and I could have been in Dallas as it was country hour and Garth Brookes was belting out “Tomorrow Never Comes” which given where I was heading may have been a premonition!

This time I ordered a beer and got a free soup – I am liking Asturias !! Anyway I could not stop long, so before a Spanish version of the Texas Two Step broke out I decided I best get back to the bus station for the next leg of my journey.

The terrain we were driving through was starting to change…. green rolling hills, picture postcard villages and giant mountains as a backdrop. I was liking what I was seeing! The bus on this leg of the journey had also had an upgrade…I had a TV screen with Wifi, arm rests and a USB port…. I still had the bloke next to me playing FIFA2022 but at least I was occupied.

The next stop was Arriondas. Suddenly the occupants of the bus had all disappeared except a Spanish couple. Actually I am not sure they were a couple as he was a lot older than her and he had crimson red hair and eyeliner… they were a great watch…. however I digress….

Cangas De Onis

Before long I was on the last leg to Cangas de Onis. Just before the three of us arrived I finally caught a glimpse of the Picos de Europa. I was in my happy place as I just love mountains and these are not only big at 2,648 metres but they are spectacular.

For anyone considering taking this journey, the roads have been great – not intimidating or dangerous in any way. I know that’s a thought people will have when considering what I am doing. Tomorrow might me a little different however!

I checked into the lovely Hotel Santa Cruz in the heart of town and rushed out to have a rather uniquely poured cider and some amazing food as the sun was setting. Canis de Onis is a fabulous remote Spanish mountain town where no one speaks English. Its the sort of place where the shops sells knives the size of rolling pins and where the locals consider an entire wild boar as a bar snack. I already love it.

Lets hope the weather holds for tomorrow as I have an exciting day ahead….

Covadonga

Having been woken by the emergency rescue helicopter passing overhead I was slightly concerned that going up into the Picos De Europa National Park in early spring may not be such a wise move. That thought lasted about 30 seconds so off I went to the bus station to catch the Cangas de Onis shuttle bus to a place called Covadonga.

This took just 20 minutes and cost less than 2 euros taking you through a couple of beautiful traditional villages on the banks of the Rio Reinazo River. From here you then get a taxi transit vehicle to the lakes of Covadonga where you have the best views of the Picos de Europa mountains.

I was not expecting Covadonga to be much other than a brief stop but how wrong was I ! This religious mountain site is extraordinary. The centre piece here is the quite stunning Grand Basilica which is made from pink stone quarried from the local mountains. There is also a museum, a holy cave cut into the rock face along with a bar, restaurant and souvenir shop.

On arrival in Covadonga you are delivered to the waiting taxi drivers who charge you 12 euros to take you up to the lakes. Sadly today was cloudy so I was in two minds as to whether to delay my departure by a couple of hours and have a look around Covadonga, but in the end I bit the bullet and went for it along with half a dozen nervous looking Italians. I knew they were nervous as they finally stopped talking as soon as we hit the road….

Picos De Europa

Indeed the journey up is a little treacherous at times with few barriers. The cars coming the other way often have no regard for keeping to the side. Its one of those moments when you just have to man up (Uomo Su in Italian)…. I know that term is frowned upon these days but I am old school and it explains the situation perfectly!

Our driver stopped at a rock that is shaped like an elephant (the usual commercial claptrap but we all looked on in amazement). Then after 30 mins we drove past the first glacial Lake Enol and continued to Lake Ercina which was supposed to have those amazing views of the Picos de Europa. Sadly not today. Mother Nature was not playing ball but that’s OK.

Now out of the vehicle and with my Italian friends chatting again we all had a strict couple of hours here to walk and experience this remarkable area in our own time. The lakes are incredible as were the alpine spring flowers scattered all over the grasslands and the air was as fresh as can be. Where the taxis were parked there is a rustic restaurant serving up various regional Asturias delights… the food in Northern Spain is off the scale!

En route down, the weather was improving and as we pulled over at a popular vantage point we got to witness, high up above, some pretty awesome birds! Once off the party bus my Italian (non) speaking friends said they were eagles. They weren’t! As a five year old lad my favourite movie was Bedknobs and Broomsticks – anyone remember it? Well there was a football match in that movie and I have always remembered as it still makes me chuckle, that the stretcher bearers going on to the pitch to remove the injured, were Vultures! So I know a vulture when I see one circling… or about six in this case !! They were amazing and with the views at the top not so great…these big old birds made my day!

We soon got back to Covadonga allowing me to have some lunch, a wander round plus I almost gatecrashed a nuns room party before thinking better of it – those days are over. I then hopped on the short public bus back to Cangis de Onis. I am so pleased I made the effort to come up here… mountain air makes me happy as does seeing wildlife free and in their natural habitats. If you get the chance come to Asturias, make sure you “Uomo Su” and go see the Picos de Europa… they are incredible even if I didn’t really see them at their best… or at all for that matter.

Contact

For more information on visiting the Picos De Europa in Northern Spain contact the Asturias Tourist Office, or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

Santander, Cantabria

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Santander Beach
Santander Beach
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After a week in both Bilbao and San Sebastián, I guessed it was time to hit the road and get back on track. I only visited San Sebastián as so many people recommended that I do. That meant I headed East from Bilbao when my plan was always to head West. So thanks everyone for screwing up my meticulously planned adventure. It was time to visit Santander!

Getting To San Sebastián To Santander

So after an about turn, I left San Sebastián this morning, briefly stopping back in Bilbao before boarding the ALSA bus to Santander. Being Easter Sunday it was packed. Next to me was a young lad called Rodrigues, a flight attendant for the Spanish low-cost carrier Volotea who spoke Canadian English… that was very good English with an occasional Canadian-style expletive thrown in! Over the 90-minute journey, he gave me a brilliant insight into the region of Cantabria and Santander.

Where To Stay?

On arrival, I checked in at the lovely Hotel Chiqui at the far end of town. This small welcoming hotel was very nice with an excellent bar, restaurant, immaculate rooms and an infinity pool that afforded views out to the main beach.

I did not hang around at the hotel so headed straight out as I was only here for 24 hours and I wanted to use Rodrigues’s information and discover the town. That idea was thrown into disarray as just yards from my hotel on the city’s signature beach, the Playa del Sardininero, I stumbled across the Red Bull-sponsored Racing Santander Ladies Beach Volleyball Doubles team in action. Six hours later I continued my visit to Santander.

Art To Brighten Up The Day

The weather was overcast so sadly my photos are not so enticing. Perhaps I need local artist Lorea Hoya to spruce them up! Lorea was on the promenade painting a watercolour of the shore. Incredibly by the time I got back to my hotel, her Instagram showed this very painting ready for sale. I do love watching a talented artist at work!

Santander Town

Santander is not as pretty as San Sebastián. It is however rich in cultural and historical heritage and in parts is beautiful. One of the must-visit landmarks in Santander is the breathtaking Magdalena Peninsula. This scenic headland boasts stunning views of the Bay of Santander and is home to the majestic Palacio de la Magdalena, a former royal residence turned conference centre. Visitors can explore the palace’s ornate interiors and wander through the surrounding parkland, enjoying picnics amidst lush greenery overlooking the sea.

Centro Bodin

For those seeking a taste of Santander’s rich cultural heritage, a visit to the Centro Botín is highly recommended. This contemporary arts centre, designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano, hosts a diverse array of exhibitions and events showcasing both local and international artists. With its striking architecture and waterfront location, the Centro Botín serves as a cultural hub where visitors can immerse themselves in the creative spirit of Santander.

Santander Cuisine

No trip to Santander would be complete without sampling the city’s delectable cuisine. From fresh seafood caught daily in the Bay of Biscay to traditional Cantabrian specialities, such as cocido montañés (a hearty bean stew) and rabas (fried calamari), Santander offers a culinary experience not to be missed. Visitors can dine al fresco at charming seaside cafes along the picturesque waterfront or savour gourmet delights at Michelin-starred restaurants showcasing innovative interpretations of regional dishes.

Santander Beaches

Of course, Santander’s pristine beaches are among its biggest draws, attracting sun-seekers and water sports enthusiasts alike. Playa del Sardinero, with its golden sands and azure waters, is the city’s most famous beach, ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and strolls along the promenade. For a more secluded escape, Playa de la Magdalena offers a tranquil retreat surrounded by lush vegetation and rugged cliffs, perfect for unwinding amidst nature’s splendour.

Two great ways to experience the city are via a hop on hop off bus tour or you can go on one of the boat trips that take you around the bay including a view of another key attraction, the Cabo Mayor and Parque de Matalenas which is home to a lighthouse as well as a beach, children’s adventure playground and golf.

Santander Royalty

Given the size of the city and the fact my hotel was at the far end of town, I took a taxi back. This happened to be none other than Manuel who in his eighties, is still working in town after a lifetime offering a VIP taxi service to the stars. In 1986 he worked in London and picked up Princess Margaret from Kensington Gardens no less.

I loved Manuel – we played Louis Armstrong’s Mack the Knife (one of my faves) on the journey back and he gave a little dance on the steps of the hotel insisting he had his pic for Instagram in front of his new Mercedes. People like this are few and far between these days. God love them!

Pre-bookable Excursions

Contact

With its wealth of attractions and natural beauty, Santander promises an unforgettable holiday experience for travellers seeking adventure, relaxation, and cultural discovery on Spain’s enchanting northern coast.

I am pleased I visited not least for the volleyball action and to meet Manuel but I am also glad to be moving on this morning to a place none of the locals can give me any information on at all…. this could go very wrong!

For more information on visiting Santander in Northern Spain contact the Cantabria Tourist Office or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited, if used, to @justonefortheroad 

Zarautz and Getaria, Basque Country

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Zarautz and Getaria, Basque Country, Spain
Zarautz and Getaria, Basque Country, Spain
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I met a Finn last night over a tasty Pintxos. This attractive lady, was telling me that earlier that day she and friends had been on a wine and Pintxos tour to a popular local spot called Irura. When I got back to my hotel I spoke to the woman on reception and mentioned Irura as I was interested in going. After a long chat – she said why go to the well known place….how about a similar place but one the locals prefer? Well she was preaching to the converted – cue a trip to Zarautz and Getaria.

Getting To Zarautz From San Sebastian

A 30 minute train journey costing €4.50 takes you the six stops from San Sebastián through the lush green Basque countryside, to Zarautz.

Whilst I took the train, there are also great bus connections plus the area is popular with cyclists and motorcyclists who tour the area.

Zarautz

Now I thought the surfing in San Sebastián was pretty good. Zarautz is surf city central! Whilst I was visiting in Spring there was still plenty going on. During the Summer surfing is naturally very popular but Autumn brings the best conditions for the experts.

This enormous 2.5 km wide open beach on this gorgeous sunny day was crammed full of people surfing, sunbathing or sipping wine in the promenade cafe’s. The beach is divided in three different parts. There is the west which is ideal for families, the centre is great for the surfers and then the East is popular for naturism so brace yourself for some sights.

At the eastern end of the beach, is a path that leads up to Mount Talaimendi. Originally a watchtower for whale hunting this is now a great spot to view the surrounding area. At the other end of the beach is the Santa Barbara lookout point. Again this provides visitors great views and wonderful countryside.

The old town is small and not so inspiring although the local market opposite the tower offers a taste of local life. Overall Zarautz is not as easy on the eye as others I have visited, but the beach for those surfing dudes and dudette’s is an OMG or a WOW in their speak!

Getaria

From Zarautz, I took a one hour coastal stroll to Getaria. This walk follows the main road where lorries, cars and cyclists thunder along so whilst its not the quietest of walks it is enjoyable for the views.

The little town of Getaria is a medieval fishing village full of local history, classy boutiques and restaurants cooking fish on outside barbecues.

You will arrive into the square where the bus departs and where a statue of Juan Sebastián Elcanoyou a local explorer will greet you. Head along and down into the main street called Nagusia Kalea. Before long you arrive at the 15th century church of San Salvador before going through a small tunnel under the church. This brings you to the harbour side where there are a couple of restaurants alongside the fishing vessels and some larger buildings where they process the fish and send it on to local towns and villages.

Which ever restaurant you choose you can be sure of sensational freshly caught fish and served with the local white wine “Txakoli”.

Surrounding Getaria are vineyards which you can tour as well as the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum – a fashion museum known throughout the designer world.

Contact

From San Sebastián these two towns are great options to get out and about – for the family perhaps to enjoy a day at Zarautz beach or just for a fabulous seafood lunch in Getaria.

Getting back to San Sebastián, I jumped on the bus from Getaria for €2.75 and was dropped virtually at my hotel door and just in time to go out again for one last fill of Pintxos…. when in San Sebastián n all that!

For more information on visiting Zarautz or Getaria in Spain, contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country) or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

San Sebastián – Basque Heaven

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Harbour-at-San-Sebastian
Harbour-at-San-Sebastian
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After four days in Bilbao, I hit the road taking the bus on the 90-minute journey east across to San Sebastián – a city famed for being the birthplace of Pintxos – those tasty small bar snacks similar to Tapas. I knew I was going to be in for a gastronomic treat! 

Getting To San Sebastián From Bilbao

Nothing specific to report regarding the journey which cost £12, apart from the fact the bus broke down 20 minutes from San Sebastián, so the 90-minute journey became a 120-minute sauna session in a vehicle with poor air-con that was packed to the rafters with noisy students on TikTok.

San Sebastián – What to Expect

I had been in San Sebastián a couple of days and the fact I extended my stay another couple of days demonstrated how much I love the city. It also demonstrates that as it was Easter weekend, there was very little hotel availability and I should have booked ahead. 

On this solo trip, I have booked very little. It’s how I like my adventures plus I like to go off-piste now and then. Nothing worse for me to book a hotel for 3 or 4 nights and realise it’s at the wrong end of town or indeed the wrong town which some of you know has happened before!

San Sebastián is special. A city with three incredible beaches – the main one is the Playa de La Concha, then there is a surfing beach, the Playa de Zurriola and a slightly smaller family beach, the Playa de Ondarreta. The tidal Urumea estuary flows into the heart of the city and is crossed by several beautifully decorated bridges. Then there is great shopping, green parks, street entertainers, an abundance of hotels and private accommodation, safe and clean streets and in the heart of the city, the Old Quarter – a matrix of cobbled streets packed every step of the way with bars, cafes and restaurants serving up the most amazing food – Pintxos.

To say this is the perfect family holiday beach destination is an understatement and the beauty for me is that there are very few British people here (and it’s Easter). It is a slice of the real Spain and the welcome is extraordinary. 

Mount Igueldo

One evening I took the funicular costing €4.25 up Mount Igueldo for the iconic sunset views of San Sebastián looking over Santa Clara Island which sits in the middle of the bay. As I queued to get onboard I realised things were a little noisy and chaotic. I was surrounded by families. It turns out there is a children’s theme park on top of the mountain complete with log flumes and duck shoots.

It wasn’t the experience I was expecting but the kids all seemed to be having a whale of a time! I took a few photos of the iconic view while standing alongside some children’s Mushroom characters and made a hasty descent down the mountain for a beer in Cafe de la Concha. I feel this is like placing a roller coaster ride in the middle of Stonehenge – although to be fair, that would elevate that attraction to no end, so who am I to say this is wrong!

Pintxos – San Sebastian Style

I headed into the old town to a bar called “Fermin Calbeton” for a beer and some Pintxos all for €14. I chose three. A pepper stuffed with cod. Anchovies on a small piece of baguette and a Torrezno – a cut-up pork chop with a slice of lemon. OMG! The food is epic….. that pork was probably the best I have ever tasted….. these next two days are going to be spent laying on a beach by day and eating Pintxos at night before the next leg of the journey begins…I just have to decide where that will be!

Mount Urgull, San Sebastián

Yesterday I walked to the top of Mount Urgull which is a forested area of natural beauty and a great place to observe the city and the coastline. At the top, there is the statue of Sagrado Corazon as well as the fortress of Castillo de la Mona. The views include the Old Town, the Playa de la Concha and the surfers beach at the Playa de Zurriola.

There are numerous paths and steps and so many different routes you can take to the top. It just so happened that the route I took ended up like a scene from “Animal Rescue” as I came across a Hedgehog in distress.

As I arrived an Italian bloke was poking it with his Apple phone. I considered smacking Gianluca round the face with my Canon Camera but instead decided to calmly ease him out of the way so I could look after the little fella, whom we shall call Spike.

Spike had somehow ended up in full sunshine by the path and was overheating, like me, in the midday sun. I decided to pick him up and move him to an area close by that was sheltered and protected from Italian mobile phone prodders. As I did so a group of kids came over. They were on a Spanish exchange with some from London who declared they did not know what a Hedgehog was and had never seen one. They also demanded a photo from me for Instagram – of themselves, not Spike! The times we are living in!

With Spike and myself cooling down I continued my day exploring. Mount Urgull is a must if you come to San Sebastián. You should also make time to potter around the harbour which is alongside the Old Town. Maybe take a trip on the tourist road train or take the kids on to the famous Merry Go Round in Alderdi Eder Park in the centre of town.

Top 10 Things To Do in San Sebastian

  1. Indulge in pintxos (Basque tapas) at the bustling bars of the Old Town, sampling local specialities like txangurro (stuffed crab) and txistorra (Basque sausage).
  2. Relax on the golden sands of La Concha Beach, one of Europe’s most beautiful urban beaches, with its crescent-shaped bay and scenic promenade.
  3. Take a stroll along the picturesque waterfront of La Concha Bay, enjoying panoramic views of the sea, the beach, and the iconic Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo.
  4. Explore the historic streets and charming squares of the Old Town (Parte Vieja), with its colourful buildings, lively atmosphere, and historic landmarks like the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus.
  5. Visit the San Telmo Museum, housed in a former convent, and discover the rich history and culture of the Basque Country through its extensive collection of art and artefacts.
  6. Take a scenic hike or cable car ride to the top of Monte Igueldo, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of San Sebastian and the surrounding coastline from the iconic amusement park.
  7. Experience the thrill of surfing at Zurriola Beach, known for its excellent waves and vibrant surf culture, with surf schools and rental shops available for all skill levels.
  8. Explore the charming fishing village of Pasaia (Pasajes), located just a short ferry ride from San Sebastian, with its narrow streets, historic buildings, and scenic waterfront.
  9. Discover the culinary delights of San Sebastian on a guided food tour, visiting local markets, gourmet shops, and Michelin-starred restaurants to sample the best of Basque cuisine.
  10. Attend a cultural event or festival in San Sebastian, such as the San Sebastian International Film Festival, the Semana Grande (Great Week) celebrations, or the Jazzaldia Jazz Festival, featuring world-class performances and entertainment.

Pre Bookable Excursions

Where To Stay In San Sebastian

Here’s a range of hotels in San Sebastian, catering to different preferences and budgets:

  1. Luxury:
    • Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel: A grand hotel offering elegant rooms, fine dining, and impeccable service, located in the heart of the city.
    • Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra: Overlooking La Concha Beach, this historic hotel features luxurious rooms, a rooftop terrace, and panoramic sea views. The staff were excellent although on the day I visited service was particularly slow on the outside terrace.
  2. Mid-range:
  3. Boutique:
    • Villa Soro: Set in a restored 19th-century villa, this boutique hotel features elegant rooms, lush gardens, and personalized service, just a short walk from the city centre.
    • Hotel Niza: A charming boutique hotel overlooking La Concha Bay, offering cosy rooms, a seafront terrace, and a renowned seafood restaurant.
  4. Budget:
    • Pension Altair: A budget-friendly guesthouse offering simple rooms and a convenient location in the Old Town, close to bars, restaurants, and attractions.
    • Pension Edorta: Situated in the Gros neighbourhood, this affordable guesthouse provides basic yet comfortable accommodations, ideal for budget-conscious travellers.

Final Thoughts

San Sebastián has it all as a holiday destination and I reckon the photos I have posted may have elevated this incredible Basque city onto your bucket list. It’s a 90-minute flight from the UK. It can be combined with Bilbao. It has some of the best gastronomy in the world. The beaches are sensational and there are a ton of activities and amusements for the family. Plus it’s great value too!

It’s clear that I loved San Sebastián in Northern Spain – and you will too…. I suggest you pop it in your diary!

Contact Information

For more information on visiting San Sebastian contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country) or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos should be credited to @justonefortheroad 

Gaztelugatxe – A Day Trip from Bilbao

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Gaztelugatxe-Chapel-and-Views
Gaztelugatxe-Chapel-and-Views
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If you come to Bilbao and fancy heading out of town for a day then, why not visit Gaztelugatxe – I have no idea how you pronounce it, but pointing to a picture worked for me! In Basque the name means “Castle Rock” and you can soon understand why.

This little islet juts out to sea and reminds me of St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is home to the small chapel of St John and next door, is the island of Akatxa. Some avid Game of Thrones enthusiasts may even recognize the chapel from season 7 of the series.

Getting There From Bilbao

For the seriously well organised go on a tour which costs circa 50+ euros pp. This will take you straight there from Bilbao.

However if you want to go independently AND get ON to the islet via the 241 steps then you will need to buy a ticket online. Not one for chapels, I did not book in advance, as I just wanted to enjoy the views and the countryside. What that did mean however was that I had to do some walking from the village of Bakio, as opposed to being dropped off directly at the site.

To get there from Bilbao you take the bus to the seaside town of Bakio which departs every hour from the main Plaza Moyua in Bilbao. This costs 2.55 euros one way and takes 45 mins. 

From there, the walk begins….Holy Tapas – you need to be an Iberian Mountain Goat to make it to the top of the five…yes FIVE…steep climbs. So make sure that before you go, you pack some sturdy shoes, water and ensure you are fit, as its quite a shlep!

What To Expect in Gaztelugatxe

Thankfully the views and the countryside all the way along the Bay of Biscay are breathtaking. The tourist office in Bilbao told me the walk would take 30 minutes – it took me an hour but it was worth it. 

At the top is a cemetery (I nearly needed it), an ice cream van, a couple of restaurants and most importantly a bar… with a view. Even the dogs were knackered!

I spent an hour wandering around checking out the various stunning viewing points and wondering whether at the age of nearly 55 I should take guided tours in future.

For those of you keen to go on to the islet there is I understand a bell that you should ring three times and make a wish. My wish at this moment was for a cold drink and a comfy seat. I got both and a view to die for!

Bakio

Once you have descended, Bakio is a lovely small quiet (in April) surf style resort with a stunning beach. It also has a few sleepy cafes, a couple of excellent restaurants and is a great place for walkers and hikers.

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I am so pleased I went to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and also Bakio in Spain…. the views and countryside are worth the effort, even if, 24 hours later, I couldn’t feel my legs!

For more information on visiting Gaztelugatxe contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country), Visit Spain or simply contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

Bilbao – The Art Of Surprise

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Bilbao, Spain
Bilbao, Spain
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Introducing Bilbao

The capital of Spain’s Basque Country has for me, always held a certain mystique. Given that it has never been considered one of the signature Spanish go-to city break destinations, I was intrigued to find out why the city of Bilbao, is starting to rise from its industrial past and attract visitors from far and wide.

Arriving at Bilbao Airport I exited through arrivals, hung a right and there I was at the bus ticket counter which in turn was less than a minute’s walk from the bus stop. For a smooth transit on arrival, Bilbao Airport is hard to beat! A ticket to the Plaza Moyua in the heart of Bilbao costs less than £3 and takes just 20 minutes.

Once in town, you will find Bilbao is equally as easy to navigate and explore. Resting on the banks of the Nervion River, most visitors will choose to walk around this refreshingly safe and clean city. That said you can also be sure that if you do feel the need for a little assistance then there is an extremely efficient bus, tram or metro service to hand.

As with any major city accommodation options range from high-quality hotels to private accommodation however, I would suggest choosing a hotel somewhere between the Plaza Moyua and the Casco Viejo – the Old Quarter.

Plaza Moyua

Those making their way to the centre of Bilbao will be dropped off in the Plaza Moyua. It’s worth remembering the name as you will often be directed to this plaza whether to take an excursion from this point or simply as a means of navigating yourself to other parts of the city.

Lookout for the stylish glass underground or subway entrances designed by none other than Norman Foster.

Casco Viejo – The Old Quarter

No visit to Bilbao is complete without spending a day and an evening wandering around the matrix of cobbled streets packed with shops, cafes, restaurants and bars. Locals will go from bar to bar for a glass of local wine and a Pintxos – a small snack such as Gilda with Peppers (Anchovy), Pinch de Chorizo Y Manchego (Pork Sausage, cheese and oil), or Tortilla de Patata (Potato Omelette sometimes with Onion).

In the heart of the Old Quarter is my favourite location in Bilbao – the Plaza Nueva. This Neoclassical-designed square dates back to 1851. Today it is home to a weekly market on Sundays and throughout the week, it is a hub of activity where friendly locals mix with tourists and enjoy al fresco drinks and pintxos in the many bars that surround the square.

This is a little snapshot of true Basque life and worth every moment – if only to people watch! Be sure to try out the iconic Cafe Bar Bilbao.

The Guggenheim Museum

The building of the Guggenheim Museum in 1997 rather changed the city’s fortunes. This modern art and contemporary museum is made from titanium sheets and is the city’s most famous attraction. Inside are three floors of exhibitions from leading world-renowned artists.

My favourite exhibit was outside – a giant spider called “Maman”, which is supposed to project awe and fear – I loved it!

Popping Out For A Drink

Wandering around Bilbao with no fixed agenda is something to savour. More often than not I ended up stopping for a drink and a Pintxos and every time it was a different experience.

At the Baobab Cafe down on the riverfront overlooking the Old Town, you can enjoy a wide selection of teas in a Bohemian-style cafe oozing character and charm. I

If gin is your thing then stop at the Gin Fizz Cafe close to the Guggenheim where the bartender is an artist himself, delivering a cocktail that will certainly hit the mark!

For those of you into the weird and wonderful how about the Kubrick Bar – a Mecca to fans of film director Stanley Kubrick.

Shopping

The main street that connects the Casco Viejo and Plaza Mayua is the Lopez De Haro which then extends onto the Grand Via. Here you will find a wide choice of fashion boutiques, shopping centres and familiar brands. In general, I found Bilbao to be fantastic value for money so make sure you leave some space in that suitcase!

San Mames Stadium

If you talk to a local about football there is only going to be one team on their mind – Athletic Bilbao, the famous football team that plays in the top tier of Spanish football. They are a unique club as they only allow players with Basque heritage to play for them so their “pool” of talent is less however despite this they continue to maintain their top-flight position.

Their home is the impressive San Mames stadium known as the Cathedral of Football. You can get a tour of the stadium or like me when a game is taking place, just hop on to their website and buy a ticket.

The Funicular Railway

For a different perspective of the city head to the Funicular Railway which will whisk you up to a spectacular viewpoint for as little as €4 return for the 5-minute ride! At the top is a small park for children to play, as well as views across the city and mountains beyond.

Bilbao is known rather unflatteringly as “El Botxo” or in English “The Hole” and from this vantage point, you can see how it has got this name.

Gaztelugatxe & Bakio

Just 45 minutes by bus from Bilbao is Gaztelugatxe. Home to the small chapel of St John and next door, the island of Aketx. You may choose to take the guided tour to the top or do it yourself meaning a lung-busting walk uphill from the seaside town of Bakio. If you want to get onto the Peninsular then you need to buy a ticket online or it will be included as part of your tour.

The views are incredible and the restaurant at the top is the perfect place to rest those weary legs.

San Sebastián

San Sebastián is the home of the Pintxos so an early morning 90-minute bus trip is well worth the wake-up call. This beautiful city has three wonderful beaches, an old quarter, and a couple of mountains to climb for awesome views of the city and surroundings and the food is off the scale.

A visit to the Basque Country is not complete without at least a day trip to San Sebastián.

A Welcome Surprise

Perhaps the biggest question I had before visiting, was whether there was going to be enough for me to do during my stay. I need not have worried. Bilbao is a city worthy of being added to those many Spanish city break options.

Its raw urban vibe and history, sensational gastronomy, quality shopping, friendly welcoming people, and safe and clean streets, made for a welcome surprise. I loved Bilbao and I am sure you will too.

Pre-Bookable Bilbao Excursions

Contact

For more information on visiting Bilbao, Spain, contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country) or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad