After a week in both Bilbao and San Sebastián, I guessed it was time to hit the road and get back on track. I only visited San Sebastián as so many people recommended that I do. That meant I headed East from Bilbao when my plan was always to head West. So thanks everyone for screwing up my meticulously planned adventure. It was time to visit Santander!

Getting To San Sebastián To Santander

So after an about turn, I left San Sebastián this morning, briefly stopping back in Bilbao before boarding the ALSA bus to Santander. Being Easter Sunday it was packed. Next to me was a young lad called Rodrigues, a flight attendant for the Spanish low-cost carrier Volotea who spoke Canadian English… that was very good English with an occasional Canadian-style expletive thrown in! Over the 90-minute journey, he gave me a brilliant insight into the region of Cantabria and Santander.

Where To Stay?

On arrival, I checked in at the lovely Hotel Chiqui at the far end of town. This small welcoming hotel was very nice with an excellent bar, restaurant, immaculate rooms and an infinity pool that afforded views out to the main beach.

I did not hang around at the hotel so headed straight out as I was only here for 24 hours and I wanted to use Rodrigues’s information and discover the town. That idea was thrown into disarray as just yards from my hotel on the city’s signature beach, the Playa del Sardininero, I stumbled across the Red Bull-sponsored Racing Santander Ladies Beach Volleyball Doubles team in action. Six hours later I continued my visit to Santander.

Art To Brighten Up The Day

The weather was overcast so sadly my photos are not so enticing. Perhaps I need local artist Lorea Hoya to spruce them up! Lorea was on the promenade painting a watercolour of the shore. Incredibly by the time I got back to my hotel, her Instagram showed this very painting ready for sale. I do love watching a talented artist at work!

Santander Town

Santander is not as pretty as San Sebastián. It is however rich in cultural and historical heritage and in parts is beautiful. One of the must-visit landmarks in Santander is the breathtaking Magdalena Peninsula. This scenic headland boasts stunning views of the Bay of Santander and is home to the majestic Palacio de la Magdalena, a former royal residence turned conference centre. Visitors can explore the palace’s ornate interiors and wander through the surrounding parkland, enjoying picnics amidst lush greenery overlooking the sea.

Centro Bodin

For those seeking a taste of Santander’s rich cultural heritage, a visit to the Centro Botín is highly recommended. This contemporary arts centre, designed by renowned architect Renzo Piano, hosts a diverse array of exhibitions and events showcasing both local and international artists. With its striking architecture and waterfront location, the Centro Botín serves as a cultural hub where visitors can immerse themselves in the creative spirit of Santander.

Santander Cuisine

No trip to Santander would be complete without sampling the city’s delectable cuisine. From fresh seafood caught daily in the Bay of Biscay to traditional Cantabrian specialities, such as cocido montañés (a hearty bean stew) and rabas (fried calamari), Santander offers a culinary experience not to be missed. Visitors can dine al fresco at charming seaside cafes along the picturesque waterfront or savour gourmet delights at Michelin-starred restaurants showcasing innovative interpretations of regional dishes.

Santander Beaches

Of course, Santander’s pristine beaches are among its biggest draws, attracting sun-seekers and water sports enthusiasts alike. Playa del Sardinero, with its golden sands and azure waters, is the city’s most famous beach, ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and strolls along the promenade. For a more secluded escape, Playa de la Magdalena offers a tranquil retreat surrounded by lush vegetation and rugged cliffs, perfect for unwinding amidst nature’s splendour.

Two great ways to experience the city are via a hop on hop off bus tour or you can go on one of the boat trips that take you around the bay including a view of another key attraction, the Cabo Mayor and Parque de Matalenas which is home to a lighthouse as well as a beach, children’s adventure playground and golf.

Santander Royalty

Given the size of the city and the fact my hotel was at the far end of town, I took a taxi back. This happened to be none other than Manuel who in his eighties, is still working in town after a lifetime offering a VIP taxi service to the stars. In 1986 he worked in London and picked up Princess Margaret from Kensington Gardens no less.

I loved Manuel – we played Louis Armstrong’s Mack the Knife (one of my faves) on the journey back and he gave a little dance on the steps of the hotel insisting he had his pic for Instagram in front of his new Mercedes. People like this are few and far between these days. God love them!

Pre-bookable Excursions

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With its wealth of attractions and natural beauty, Santander promises an unforgettable holiday experience for travellers seeking adventure, relaxation, and cultural discovery on Spain’s enchanting northern coast.

I am pleased I visited not least for the volleyball action and to meet Manuel but I am also glad to be moving on this morning to a place none of the locals can give me any information on at all…. this could go very wrong!

For more information on visiting Santander in Northern Spain contact the Cantabria Tourist Office or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited, if used, to @justonefortheroad 

I met a Finn last night over a tasty Pintxos. This attractive lady, was telling me that earlier that day she and friends had been on a wine and Pintxos tour to a popular local spot called Irura. When I got back to my hotel I spoke to the woman on reception and mentioned Irura as I was interested in going. After a long chat – she said why go to the well known place….how about a similar place but one the locals prefer? Well she was preaching to the converted – cue a trip to Zarautz and Getaria.

Getting To Zarautz From San Sebastian

A 30 minute train journey costing €4.50 takes you the six stops from San Sebastián through the lush green Basque countryside, to Zarautz.

Whilst I took the train, there are also great bus connections plus the area is popular with cyclists and motorcyclists who tour the area.

Zarautz

Now I thought the surfing in San Sebastián was pretty good. Zarautz is surf city central! Whilst I was visiting in Spring there was still plenty going on. During the Summer surfing is naturally very popular but Autumn brings the best conditions for the experts.

This enormous 2.5 km wide open beach on this gorgeous sunny day was crammed full of people surfing, sunbathing or sipping wine in the promenade cafe’s. The beach is divided in three different parts. There is the west which is ideal for families, the centre is great for the surfers and then the East is popular for naturism so brace yourself for some sights.

At the eastern end of the beach, is a path that leads up to Mount Talaimendi. Originally a watchtower for whale hunting this is now a great spot to view the surrounding area. At the other end of the beach is the Santa Barbara lookout point. Again this provides visitors great views and wonderful countryside.

The old town is small and not so inspiring although the local market opposite the tower offers a taste of local life. Overall Zarautz is not as easy on the eye as others I have visited, but the beach for those surfing dudes and dudette’s is an OMG or a WOW in their speak!

Getaria

From Zarautz, I took a one hour coastal stroll to Getaria. This walk follows the main road where lorries, cars and cyclists thunder along so whilst its not the quietest of walks it is enjoyable for the views.

The little town of Getaria is a medieval fishing village full of local history, classy boutiques and restaurants cooking fish on outside barbecues.

You will arrive into the square where the bus departs and where a statue of Juan Sebastián Elcanoyou a local explorer will greet you. Head along and down into the main street called Nagusia Kalea. Before long you arrive at the 15th century church of San Salvador before going through a small tunnel under the church. This brings you to the harbour side where there are a couple of restaurants alongside the fishing vessels and some larger buildings where they process the fish and send it on to local towns and villages.

Which ever restaurant you choose you can be sure of sensational freshly caught fish and served with the local white wine “Txakoli”.

Surrounding Getaria are vineyards which you can tour as well as the Cristobal Balenciaga Museum – a fashion museum known throughout the designer world.

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From San Sebastián these two towns are great options to get out and about – for the family perhaps to enjoy a day at Zarautz beach or just for a fabulous seafood lunch in Getaria.

Getting back to San Sebastián, I jumped on the bus from Getaria for €2.75 and was dropped virtually at my hotel door and just in time to go out again for one last fill of Pintxos…. when in San Sebastián n all that!

For more information on visiting Zarautz or Getaria in Spain, contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country) or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad 

After four days in Bilbao, I hit the road taking the bus on the 90-minute journey east across to San Sebastián – a city famed for being the birthplace of Pintxos – those tasty small bar snacks similar to Tapas. I knew I was going to be in for a gastronomic treat! 

Getting To San Sebastián From Bilbao

Nothing specific to report regarding the journey which cost £12, apart from the fact the bus broke down 20 minutes from San Sebastián, so the 90-minute journey became a 120-minute sauna session in a vehicle with poor air-con that was packed to the rafters with noisy students on TikTok.

San Sebastián – What to Expect

I had been in San Sebastián a couple of days and the fact I extended my stay another couple of days demonstrated how much I love the city. It also demonstrates that as it was Easter weekend, there was very little hotel availability and I should have booked ahead. 

On this solo trip, I have booked very little. It’s how I like my adventures plus I like to go off-piste now and then. Nothing worse for me to book a hotel for 3 or 4 nights and realise it’s at the wrong end of town or indeed the wrong town which some of you know has happened before!

San Sebastián is special. A city with three incredible beaches – the main one is the Playa de La Concha, then there is a surfing beach, the Playa de Zurriola and a slightly smaller family beach, the Playa de Ondarreta. The tidal Urumea estuary flows into the heart of the city and is crossed by several beautifully decorated bridges. Then there is great shopping, green parks, street entertainers, an abundance of hotels and private accommodation, safe and clean streets and in the heart of the city, the Old Quarter – a matrix of cobbled streets packed every step of the way with bars, cafes and restaurants serving up the most amazing food – Pintxos.

To say this is the perfect family holiday beach destination is an understatement and the beauty for me is that there are very few British people here (and it’s Easter). It is a slice of the real Spain and the welcome is extraordinary. 

Mount Igueldo

One evening I took the funicular costing €4.25 up Mount Igueldo for the iconic sunset views of San Sebastián looking over Santa Clara Island which sits in the middle of the bay. As I queued to get onboard I realised things were a little noisy and chaotic. I was surrounded by families. It turns out there is a children’s theme park on top of the mountain complete with log flumes and duck shoots.

It wasn’t the experience I was expecting but the kids all seemed to be having a whale of a time! I took a few photos of the iconic view while standing alongside some children’s Mushroom characters and made a hasty descent down the mountain for a beer in Cafe de la Concha. I feel this is like placing a roller coaster ride in the middle of Stonehenge – although to be fair, that would elevate that attraction to no end, so who am I to say this is wrong!

Pintxos – San Sebastian Style

I headed into the old town to a bar called “Fermin Calbeton” for a beer and some Pintxos all for €14. I chose three. A pepper stuffed with cod. Anchovies on a small piece of baguette and a Torrezno – a cut-up pork chop with a slice of lemon. OMG! The food is epic….. that pork was probably the best I have ever tasted….. these next two days are going to be spent laying on a beach by day and eating Pintxos at night before the next leg of the journey begins…I just have to decide where that will be!

Mount Urgull, San Sebastián

Yesterday I walked to the top of Mount Urgull which is a forested area of natural beauty and a great place to observe the city and the coastline. At the top, there is the statue of Sagrado Corazon as well as the fortress of Castillo de la Mona. The views include the Old Town, the Playa de la Concha and the surfers beach at the Playa de Zurriola.

There are numerous paths and steps and so many different routes you can take to the top. It just so happened that the route I took ended up like a scene from “Animal Rescue” as I came across a Hedgehog in distress.

As I arrived an Italian bloke was poking it with his Apple phone. I considered smacking Gianluca round the face with my Canon Camera but instead decided to calmly ease him out of the way so I could look after the little fella, whom we shall call Spike.

Spike had somehow ended up in full sunshine by the path and was overheating, like me, in the midday sun. I decided to pick him up and move him to an area close by that was sheltered and protected from Italian mobile phone prodders. As I did so a group of kids came over. They were on a Spanish exchange with some from London who declared they did not know what a Hedgehog was and had never seen one. They also demanded a photo from me for Instagram – of themselves, not Spike! The times we are living in!

With Spike and myself cooling down I continued my day exploring. Mount Urgull is a must if you come to San Sebastián. You should also make time to potter around the harbour which is alongside the Old Town. Maybe take a trip on the tourist road train or take the kids on to the famous Merry Go Round in Alderdi Eder Park in the centre of town.

Top 10 Things To Do in San Sebastian

1. Indulge in pintxos (Basque tapas) at the bustling bars of the Old Town, sampling local specialities like txangurro (stuffed crab) and txistorra (Basque sausage).
2. Relax on the golden sands of La Concha Beach, one of Europe’s most beautiful urban beaches, with its crescent-shaped bay and scenic promenade.
3. Take a stroll along the picturesque waterfront of La Concha Bay, enjoying panoramic views of the sea, the beach, and the iconic Monte Urgull and Monte Igueldo.
4. Explore the historic streets and charming squares of the Old Town (Parte Vieja), with its colourful buildings, lively atmosphere, and historic landmarks like the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus.
5. Visit the San Telmo Museum, housed in a former convent, and discover the rich history and culture of the Basque Country through its extensive collection of art and artefacts.
6. Take a scenic hike or cable car ride to the top of Monte Igueldo, where you can enjoy breathtaking views of San Sebastian and the surrounding coastline from the iconic amusement park.
7. Experience the thrill of surfing at Zurriola Beach, known for its excellent waves and vibrant surf culture, with surf schools and rental shops available for all skill levels.
8. Explore the charming fishing village of Pasaia (Pasajes), located just a short ferry ride from San Sebastian, with its narrow streets, historic buildings, and scenic waterfront.
9. Discover the culinary delights of San Sebastian on a guided food tour, visiting local markets, gourmet shops, and Michelin-starred restaurants to sample the best of Basque cuisine.
10. Attend a cultural event or festival in San Sebastian, such as the San Sebastian International Film Festival, the Semana Grande (Great Week) celebrations, or the Jazzaldia Jazz Festival, featuring world-class performances and entertainment.

Pre Bookable Excursions

Where To Stay In San Sebastian

Here’s a range of hotels in San Sebastian, catering to different preferences and budgets:

1. Luxury:
   • Hotel Maria Cristina, a Luxury Collection Hotel: A grand hotel offering elegant rooms, fine dining, and impeccable service, located in the heart of the city.
   • Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra: Overlooking La Concha Beach, this historic hotel features luxurious rooms, a rooftop terrace, and panoramic sea views. The staff were excellent although on the day I visited service was particularly slow on the outside terrace.
2. Mid-range:
   • NH Collection San Sebastián Aránzazu: A modern hotel with stylish rooms, a fitness centre, and a restaurant, situated in the lively neighbourhood of Gros.
   • Hotel Zenit San Sebastián: Located near Zurriola Beach, this contemporary hotel offers comfortable rooms, a rooftop terrace, and easy access to the Old Town.
3. Boutique:
   • Villa Soro: Set in a restored 19th-century villa, this boutique hotel features elegant rooms, lush gardens, and personalized service, just a short walk from the city centre.
   • Hotel Niza: A charming boutique hotel overlooking La Concha Bay, offering cosy rooms, a seafront terrace, and a renowned seafood restaurant.
4. Budget:
   • Pension Altair: A budget-friendly guesthouse offering simple rooms and a convenient location in the Old Town, close to bars, restaurants, and attractions.
   • Pension Edorta: Situated in the Gros neighbourhood, this affordable guesthouse provides basic yet comfortable accommodations, ideal for budget-conscious travellers.

Final Thoughts

San Sebastián has it all as a holiday destination and I reckon the photos I have posted may have elevated this incredible Basque city onto your bucket list. It’s a 90-minute flight from the UK. It can be combined with Bilbao. It has some of the best gastronomy in the world. The beaches are sensational and there are a ton of activities and amusements for the family. Plus it’s great value too!

It’s clear that I loved San Sebastián in Northern Spain – and you will too…. I suggest you pop it in your diary!

Contact Information

For more information on visiting San Sebastian contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country) or Visit Spain or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos should be credited to @justonefortheroad 

If you come to Bilbao and fancy heading out of town for a day then, why not visit Gaztelugatxe – I have no idea how you pronounce it, but pointing to a picture worked for me! In Basque the name means “Castle Rock” and you can soon understand why.

This little islet juts out to sea and reminds me of St Michael’s Mount in Cornwall. San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is home to the small chapel of St John and next door, is the island of Akatxa. Some avid Game of Thrones enthusiasts may even recognize the chapel from season 7 of the series.

Getting There From Bilbao

For the seriously well organised go on a tour which costs circa 50+ euros pp. This will take you straight there from Bilbao.

However if you want to go independently AND get ON to the islet via the 241 steps then you will need to buy a ticket online. Not one for chapels, I did not book in advance, as I just wanted to enjoy the views and the countryside. What that did mean however was that I had to do some walking from the village of Bakio, as opposed to being dropped off directly at the site.

To get there from Bilbao you take the bus to the seaside town of Bakio which departs every hour from the main Plaza Moyua in Bilbao. This costs 2.55 euros one way and takes 45 mins. 

From there, the walk begins….Holy Tapas – you need to be an Iberian Mountain Goat to make it to the top of the five…yes FIVE…steep climbs. So make sure that before you go, you pack some sturdy shoes, water and ensure you are fit, as its quite a shlep!

What To Expect in Gaztelugatxe

Thankfully the views and the countryside all the way along the Bay of Biscay are breathtaking. The tourist office in Bilbao told me the walk would take 30 minutes – it took me an hour but it was worth it. 

At the top is a cemetery (I nearly needed it), an ice cream van, a couple of restaurants and most importantly a bar… with a view. Even the dogs were knackered!

I spent an hour wandering around checking out the various stunning viewing points and wondering whether at the age of nearly 55 I should take guided tours in future.

For those of you keen to go on to the islet there is I understand a bell that you should ring three times and make a wish. My wish at this moment was for a cold drink and a comfy seat. I got both and a view to die for!

Bakio

Once you have descended, Bakio is a lovely small quiet (in April) surf style resort with a stunning beach. It also has a few sleepy cafes, a couple of excellent restaurants and is a great place for walkers and hikers.

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I am so pleased I went to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe and also Bakio in Spain…. the views and countryside are worth the effort, even if, 24 hours later, I couldn’t feel my legs!

For more information on visiting Gaztelugatxe contact the local Bilbao Tourist Office, the Euskadi Tourist Office (Basque Country), Visit Spain or simply contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

All photos were taken by myself and should be credited if used to @justonefortheroad