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The Kvarner Riviera: Croatia’s Coastal Secret

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Moscenice Draga, Kvarner Riviera, Croatia
Moscenice Draga, Kvarner Riviera, Croatia
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Since the start of this century, Croatia has become a top choice for British holidaymakers seeking sun, sea, and fun. You will no doubt be familiar with popular spots like Dubrovnik, Split, and Hvar, which have dominated the headlines in recent years. But for those who know where to look, Croatia has even more to offer. If you promise to keep it quiet, I’ll share a little secret with you.

Nestled quietly between the crystal-clear waters of the Adriatic Sea and the rugged peaks of the Dinaric Alps, is the Kvarner Riviera, a 30-kilometre stretch of coast that is rich in natural beauty and one of the most enchanting and diverse regions in the country. What’s more, prices are up to 30% cheaper than in the rest of Croatia, so whether you’re in search of sunshine, fascinated by history, passionate about food, or eager for adventure, the Kvarner Riviera offers an unforgettable holiday experience without breaking the bank.

Earlier this year, I flew into Pula, in the neighbouring Istria region, and travelled just 90 minutes along the picturesque coast, before arriving at Opatija for the start of an adventure, to discover the very best of the Kvarner Riviera and its islands.

Krk Town, Croatia
Krk Town, Croatia

Opatija: The Queen of the Adriatic

Opatija, is in many people’s eyes, the standout resort of the Kvarner Riviera. The town’s elegant architecture, lush gardens, and seaside promenade evoke a sense of old-world glamour that has been impeccably preserved.

Croatia’s first tourist resort, Opatija is celebrating 180 years of tourism in 2024. The town’s story began in 1844 with the construction of Villa Angiolina, a grand mansion that still stands today. Now home to the Museum Turizma, this historic building offers a glimpse into Opatija’s rich past. The Austro-Hungarian nobility flocked to Opatija, building opulent villas and luxurious hotels. The town became a favourite winter resort, known for its mild climate and therapeutic sea air.

Walking through Opatija today, you’ll find beautifully preserved examples of Belle Époque architecture, such as the Hotel Kvarner, the oldest hotel on the Adriatic, and the stunning Villa Amalia.

The Heritage Hotel Imperial, Opatija

Opatija offers a wide range of accommodation options, from luxurious five-star hotels to budget-friendly self-catering stays. I was staying at the Heritage Hotel Imperial, perfectly located right in the heart of the city and across the road from the pretty Angiolina Park.

The hotel provides comfortable rooms, an excellent breakfast, and friendly welcoming staff. Its best feature is the lovely outside terrace, where you can enjoy a morning coffee and a pastry while watching the town come to life at the start of each day.

The Lungomare

The Lungomare, a 12-kilometre seaside promenade, is a must-see, or should I say, must-walk in Opatija. This scenic pedestrian walkway which is predominantly flat, stretches along the Kvarner Riviera, from Volosko to Lovran and provides breathtaking views of the Adriatic and the surrounding islands.

Along the Lungomare, you’ll encounter statues, fountains, and picturesque parks with the most iconic landmark, the “Maiden with the Seagull” statue, which has become the symbol of Opatija.

Kvarner Cruise

Another wonderful way to explore the area is by taking a relaxing boat trip along the coast, where you can enjoy the views of the Kvarner Riviera, including charming resorts like Mošćenička Draga, Lovran, Ika, Ičići, Opatija, and Volosko.

These excursions often feature a swim stop, local music, and a freshly prepared seafood lunch with wine or soft drinks on board. Just make sure you remember the suncream and a hat as sailings are often during the hottest time of the day.

Art Terrarium, Golovik

You can of course, easily visit all these towns and villages by land. The local bus service runs along the coast, making them very accessible. If you venture further inland, then a self-drive car or a guide is recommended. One destination worth exploring is Golovik, where you can visit the Art Terrarium.

Here, the talented artist Zdenko Velčić has crafted an impressive collection of intricate wooden sculptures, inspired by the wildlife and plants he encountered as a child in the region. As he shared with me, much of this nature is sadly disappearing, so this work is his way to preserve these memories for future generations.

I thoroughly enjoyed touring his small workshop and witnessing the pride he takes in his beautifully crafted pieces, all made from local materials.

RetrOpatija Festival

Opatija’s cultural scene is vibrant, with a calendar filled with music festivals, art exhibitions, and theatrical performances. I was lucky enough to visit in late June during the RetrOpatija, a fabulous annual festival that brings the past to life with a celebration of music, dance, vintage style and street entertainment.

Everywhere I turned, hotels, restaurants, and bars were fully immersed in the spirit of the event, with staff dressed in period costumes and vintage cars rumbling along the seafront. I found myself enjoying the nostalgic tunes of the 1950s on the terrace of Hotel Kvarner, where my grandparents once danced cheek-to-cheek to the melodies of Ivo Robic. An hour later I was in the front row at the magnificent Open-Air Theatre alongside some 70’s disco divas, rocking out to some AC/DC classics.

I loved the diversity of this incredible event and in many ways, it encapsulated the spirit and beauty of this little corner of Croatia.

Rijeka: A Gateway to the Adriatic

Rijeka is the third-largest city in Croatia and the country’s main port. Having visited much of Croatia before, I honestly never thought Rijeka would float my boat, but after a tour with the most friendly and knowledgeable guide, I was soon a convert.

Discovering The City of Rijeka

Rijeka’s history dates to Roman times, but it flourished during the Austro-Hungarian period when it became one of the empire’s most important ports. In 2020, the city was named the European Capital of Culture. Sadly, however, with the world enduring the Covid pandemic, few could visit, meaning that many of the presentations and events were held online.

The city’s industrial heritage is evident in its architecture, with grandiose buildings lining the main street, Korzo. The Korzo is the heart of Rijeka, a pedestrianised boulevard filled with shops, cafes, and cultural landmarks. One of the most notable buildings is the City Tower, a baroque structure that has become a symbol of Rijeka.

Kruzna Street

The Trsat Castle, perched on a hill overlooking the city, offers panoramic views of the Kvarner Bay. This medieval fortress, dating back to the 13th century, is a must-visit for history enthusiasts. The castle also houses a museum and a gallery, and its courtyard is often used for concerts and events.

Another historical site worth exploring but for entirely different reasons is Kruzna Street which means circular in Croatian. Just off the Korzo, this was the centre of the music scene back in the late sixties, and was home to the first student club, in what was then a socialist country. Today Klub Palach remains the oldest rock club in the city, whilst the street is adorned in urban-style graffiti that tells the story of those rebellious days of yesteryear.  

Central Market, Rijeka

As with Opatija, the city boasts several festivals and events throughout the year. The Rijeka Carnival, one of the largest and most famous in Europe, transforms the city into a colourful spectacle of parades, costumes, and street performances.

For a taste of local life, I would recommend visiting the Central Market. In 2007, Michael Palin visited, for his hit BBC TV series “New Europe”. It was here that he described one of the ornate market pavilions as a “Cathedral of Fish”.

As I made my way through this impressive building, I witnessed for myself, the incredible variety of seafood that is caught off the coast including the region’s most popular dish, Kvarner Scampi.

Bistro Mornar, Rijeka

Just outside, the fruit and vegetable market bursts with colour and lively chatter, but I’d recommend not overindulging in the free samples of local cheese and cured meats as it may just spoil your appetite.

Lunch is a beloved tradition in the city, with numerous authentic restaurants to choose from, like the very popular Bistro Mornar, where all the food is freshly prepared, homemade, and delicious.

The Kvarner Islands Unveiled:

No matter where I travel, I’m always drawn to islands, and unlike the neighbouring region of Istria, Kvarner boasts seven inhabited islands all of which offer a special allure.

Access to them is both easy and great value. You can cross from the mainland to Krk, the largest Kvarner island, by a 1.5-kilometre-long bridge or you can use the excellent Jadrolinija ferry network to visit other islands such as Rab, Cres, and Losinj. Many other uninhabited islands can be discovered by sailboat or private means.

The Island of Krk: Natural Beauty and Rich Heritage

The island of Krk boasts a rich history that dates to the Roman era, with numerous archaeological sites and medieval churches scattered across the island. Perfect for both nature enthusiasts and history buffs, Krk offers a varied landscape featuring beaches, vineyards, olive groves, and picturesque towns like Krk Town, Baška, Vrbnik, Malinska, and Njivice.

Hotel Maritime, Krk Town

I was staying in Krk Town at the 4* Hotel Maritime which is ideally located on the harbourfront, and just a delightful 5-minute walk to both the centre of town, the harbour, and a choice of little bays.

On arrival, I headed straight to dinner in the gorgeous restaurant overlooking the harbour and town in the distance. The food and cocktails were outstanding. I could easily have spent the week in this beautiful hotel. In the morning, after a superb breakfast, I discovered the small rooftop pool where you can relax and take a dip with yet more incredible views.

Krk Town

The town of Krk, the island’s main settlement, is a walled city with a history spanning over two millennia. Its walls, which nearly encircle the town, are the third largest in Croatia, after those of Ston and Dubrovnik. One of the island’s most notable historical landmarks is the Frankopan Castle, a 12th-century fortress overlooking the town. Nearby, the Krk Cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, is renowned for its Romanesque architecture and elaborate interior, making it a must-visit site.

Be sure to visit in the early evening when the charming narrow streets come alive with people leisurely strolling and soaking in the relaxed ambience. You’ll also find a variety of shops, boutiques, cafes, bars, and restaurants to explore. One such haunt is the spectacular “Volsonis” Cocktail Bar and Secret Garden which is set amongst ancient Roman Ruins.

The al fresco restaurants that line the front overlooking the harbour, all serve freshly caught fish and perhaps one of the island’s culinary specialities “šurlice,” a type of pasta that is traditionally handmade and served with various sauces, including those made with the island’s famous lamb.

Vrbnik

The ancient town of Vrbnik, perched on a cliff overlooking the sea is famous for its narrow streets, particularly the Klančić street, which is reputed to be the narrowest in the world.

Vrbnik is also the centre of wine production on the island, known for its Žlahtina white wine and also Sea Champagne which is fermented on the Adriatic Sea bed!

There is no place better to sample these delights than at the gorgeous Restaurant Nada which features an inside restaurant that oozes local history, whilst the outside terrace provides glorious views across the Kvarner Riviera. If you are lucky, you may even get to meet Nada herself, the owner who despite her advancing years has her team delivering the most attentive and high level of service.

Baška

The town of Baška, which is located on the southern tip of Krk, is popular for the “Vela Plaza” one of the best beaches on the island. In the high season, it draws families and younger people, whilst in the spring and summer months it attracts those seeking a peaceful stay.

Baška is renowned for the Baška tablet, a significant Croatian Glagolitic artefact from around 1100. This limestone tablet is notable for being the first known instance of the term “Hrvatski,” meaning “Croatian.” Today, the term for Croatia is “Hrvatska.”

Njivice

Once a small fishing village, Njivice has evolved into a popular tourist destination. Today, it offers a range of accommodation options, including the Veya Hotel by Aminess, private rentals, and nearby camping sites.

The resort features a vibrant promenade, beautiful beaches, bars, restaurants, and a selection of shops offering local products and souvenirs. One charming tradition on Krk Island is the annual competition to create the year’s official souvenir. Local artists and craftsmen compete for this prestigious title, and on judging day, one souvenir is honoured with the title “A Gift From Krk” for the year.

The Island of Rab: A Tranquil Escape

Rab, often referred to as the “Happy Island,” is a haven of tranquillity and natural beauty. With its sandy beaches, lush forests, and charming medieval town, Rab offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.

I had taken a 90-minute “Jadrolinija” car ferry from Krk Island into the town of Lopar on the northwest corner of the island of Rab. This journey cost me as a foot passenger, just 6 euros. Lopar is known for the sandy Paradise Beach which is ideal for families, thanks to its shallow waters and soft sand.

Hotel Valamar Collection Imperial

A 20-minute transfer from Lopar to Rab town and I was at my home for a couple of nights, at the 4-star Hotel Valamar Collection Imperial.

Perfectly positioned on the edge of the Town of Rab, the island’s main settlement and just a 5-minute walk to the centre of town.

The hotel is modern and comfortable with a lovely swimming pool and adjacent inside/outside bar which in the evening plays host to either a small band or a local DJ. The choice of restaurants is another important feature here with the delightful a la carte terrace serving up a choice of delicious meals in sumptuous natural surroundings!  

Rab Town

This beautifully preserved medieval town is dominated by four bell towers, which give Rab its distinctive skyline. The Church of St. Mary the Great, a Romanesque Basilica dating back to the 12th century, is one of the most significant landmarks on the island. The church’s bell tower offers panoramic views of the town and the surrounding area.

Be sure to wander the streets both at dawn and at sunset to fully appreciate the beauty of Rab town. There are three main streets – Lower Street for restaurants and traditional bars, Middle Street for the retail shops, and Upper Street for the bell tower, history and the best views.

Rab Town Beaches & Parks

Shopping in Rab is a delightful experience, with a variety of boutiques, shops, and souvenir stalls to explore. One of the island’s specialities is wood art, particularly hand-crafted items made from olive trees, which are naturally and legally harvested. Shops like “Olea” offer beautiful pieces that make for unique souvenirs. For a delicious treat, be sure to try the “Torta” or Rab Cake, a tasty pastry originally made by local nuns and now sold in many stores across the island.

From the upper street, head into Komrčar Park, a peaceful green space that is ideal for a stroll. The park is home to a variety of Mediterranean plants and trees, as well as several walking paths that offer stunning views of the sea and neighbouring islands. Descending to the seafront you will find a popular stretch for swimming and sunbathing. Be sure to stop by at the super cool and trendy, Banova Villa Beach Bar, for not only great cocktails but also healthy lunches and snacks throughout the day. 

Kamenjak

Rab offers a range of outdoor activities, from hiking and cycling to water sports and boat trips. The island’s diverse landscape, with its forests, beaches, and hills, provides plenty of opportunities for exploration.

One of the popular areas to hike and cycle is near Kamenjak. If, after all that exercise, you are looking for a great stop for lunch with some of the best views of the island, then the restaurant of the same name is well worth a visit, as an added incentive, it’s all downhill from there to Rab Town!

Best Of The Rest

For this visit to the Kvarner Riviera, I only touched the surface of what this gorgeous region of Croatia can offer. There are many more towns and villages to explore, including Crikvenice and Novi Vinodolski. There is the Gorski Kotar National Park, and the Učka Nature Park, both home to diverse flora and fauna, making it perfect for hikers, nature lovers and bird watchers. The islands of Cres, and Losinj provide yet more opportunities for island hopping and adventure.  

Farewell Croatia – Till Next Time

The Kvarner Riviera is Croatia without commercialism and crowds. There are no cruise lines with passengers numbering that of a small town descending for an afternoon. Kvarner is unspoiled nature, crystal-clear seas, fresh and delicious cuisine, and warm, welcoming people who cherish friendships and embrace a healthy way of life.

The Kvarner Riviera is a Croatian secret which has yet to be fully discovered by us Brits. Maybe that’s a good thing, but remember our deal, it’s between you and me, right?

Contact Information

There are direct flights to Pula International Airport from Gatwick, Manchester and Stansted with a choice of airlines including British Airways, Easyjet and Jet2, while Ryanair operates services to Rijeka from Stansted Airport.

For more information on the Kvarner Riviera visit the Kvarner County Tourism Office.

Bulgaria’s Black Sea Resorts

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Nessebar Harbour, Bulgaria Summer Holidays
Nessebar Harbour, Bulgaria Summer Holidays
Home » Travel Blog

A Trip Along The Black Sea

This month, I look back on 5 years from 2009 to 2014 when I worked for the leading travel specialist in Bulgaria. In particular, I chart a road trip I took along the country’s beautiful Black Sea Coast. My journey took me from the quieter north to the bustling south where I discovered some of the best places to visit and things to do in this underrated yet very popular Eastern European country.

I had for years wanted to work in “the smoke”. Every day I jumped on the train to Victoria Station and then walked down Buckingham Palace Road tipping my cap as I passed Her Majesty. Then on through the parakeet screeching pathways of Green Park, past the obscenely expensive jewellers of Bond Street. I then spent my day just a stone’s throw from Oxford Street where a pair of shoes can cost you more than you would pay for a week’s family summer holiday on the Black Sea Coast of this sometimes misunderstood Eastern European country.

The negative reaction when I told people that I would be selling and promoting holidays to Bulgaria and even today, years after I left, always surprised me. There is a certain snobbery around some destinations and I soon became accustomed to the body language that told me, on the mere mention of the word Bulgaria, that it was not a place that some potential customers would ever consider.

However, rather than let these reactions get me down, they spurred me on. Much like another country close to my heart, yet tarnished with the same stuffy brush – Bosnia and Herzegovina. Bulgaria is an Eastern European country that divides opinion – is it the marmite of world travel? Let’s find out if I can change your perception as I travelled from the North to the South of Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast.

Bulgaria Summer Travel Blog
Bulgaria Summer Travel Blog

So What Is Bulgaria Like For A Summer Holiday

The abundance of cheap hotels in the most popular seaside resort of Sunny Beach, the drinking culture of the British (not the Bulgarians I hasten to add) and the often-referenced links to the Bulgarian mafia, unfortunately, taint the opinion of many. It seems that one lively resort in July and August where youngsters head for a great time means that the rest of the country is considered off-limits. I guess that is similar to visitors coming to the UK to somewhere like Blackpool – does that then mean that any holiday in the UK is going to be all day drinking, donkey rides and kiss-me-quick hats?

Your Bulgarian Lev will go a very long way and as a result, the country does attract tourists just intent on drinking enough beer and Rakia to sink a battleship but like so many places in the world if you head off the beaten track and away from those commercial traps of excess you will be surprised at the beauty, the quality and the hospitality available.

Bulgaria’s summer holidays are often seen as a cheap alternative to other Mediterranean destinations, making them perfect for families and couples who are on a tight budget.

Family holidays in Bulgaria offer safe bathing on Blue Flag beaches, many sports activities and entertainment plus chilled vibes and places to relax. Families with very young kids tend to love the quieter resorts, leaving the larger resorts to those wanting to party the night away.

During these five years, I learned so much about the country, Bulgaria’s summer and winter resorts and the people.  I hope now with my new blogger’s hat on….no kiss me quick hat here, I can dispel a few myths and showcase some of my memories and experiences whilst also highlighting some of those places and resorts that so often get overlooked!

Potholes and Dreams

I remember my first experience of the country was a whistle-stop Bulgaria road trip of the summer coastal resorts flying into Varna in the North then, travelling from the resort of Albena, 130kms south, before ultimately departing back to the UK from Bourgas.

A friend of mine had and still has an apartment in Varna, bought with loose change over a decade ago, He had always stated that the northern Bulgarian coast was quieter and home to some smaller, relaxed, safe resorts as well as three high-quality golf courses, one of which is world-class.

So there you go, have I surprised you already? Quieter…. smaller….relaxed…safe…world-class – surely these are not words to describe Bulgaria that we all “think” we know?

I always remember that road trip with great fondness as I was driven and guided by a lovely Bulgarian lady who taught me so much about the country, its traditions and her dreams for the future – something I always like to hear from people is their aspirations in life.

Bulgaria’s summer holidays can be scorchingly hot. We travelled south in a car the size of an egg box which was covered in so much sand, both inside and out, that it could have come straight from the Dakar rally. Add to this, a lack of air conditioning and a suspension that had come off worst in many a battle with a Bulgarian pothole, and this was the type of road trip and adventure that I have always relished – for me, travelling is about these random adventures and the occasional hair raising moment.

Varna

Varna itself is an airport hub, a port and a seaside resort and is mainly considered a gateway to the northern resorts of Albena, St Konstantin and Golden Sands not to mention the golf resorts of the Cape Kaliakra region.

The third largest city in Bulgaria, Varna has grown in recent years to offer visitors so much more in terms of shopping, history, art galleries, museums, cultural events, and a promenade with numerous bars, restaurants and nightlife that never sleeps.

I particularly loved the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin, the brightly coloured houses, the wrought iron balconies and the pretty bustling flower market – it is well worth a day trip if you are staying in the area.

Albena

Just 30 km north of Varna is Albena. A purpose-built seaside resort on one of the very best beaches on all of the Black Sea Coast. I recall wandering around observing the open spaces, kids playing safely in the parks, a horse-drawn carriage taking tourists on a gentle tour of the town and the cleanliness of both the beach and the streets.

For some random reason, I always remember a cheap oh so simple kids’ toy kiosk that was a throwback to my youth and a happy old man in a blisteringly hot tent in the shape of an orange selling fresh juices. I think he was drinking more than he was selling!

All quite bizarre but a lovely resort and ideal for great value Bulgaria summer holidays where you will rarely stray from the beach…. I mean why would you when it’s that good?

Golden Sands

Heading south I discovered the principal northern resort of “Golden Sands” which alongside its lush green wooded hillside location gave me that first glimpse of aqua parks, family attractions, neon lights and the party scene.

However, its most famous attribute as the name suggests is the beach which is listed as a Blue Flag Beach meaning it is safe to swim, clean and pollution-free. Golden Sands is blessed with some great beach bars where you can take a sundowner at incredibly low prices. A lovely road train offers visitors the chance to rest their legs while being ferried between key locations.

At night there is a dizzying choice of bars, restaurants with one of my pet hates, pictures of every meal on the menu and clubs featuring the old favourite “karaoke” where you can choose songs from the local Bulgarian hit parade written in Cyrillic or if your not up to that challenge then there are plenty of your more recognisable favourites.

I found Golden Sands a little too commercial and glitzy for me although it does what it says on the tin and caters for families or singles looking for a Bulgaria summer holiday with fun, 24/7 entertainment and beach life all at an amazing price.

Just 30 km from Golden Sands and a very popular excursion are the Botanical Gardens of Balchik. Here you will find rare species of plants, cacti, stalls selling local produce and souvenirs, a small church and even a little beach with refreshments. This was far more to my taste and I wholeheartedly recommend this trip.

St Konstantin and Elena

Just 7 km south of Golden Sands is the peaceful resort of St Konstantin.

There is the most lovely beach here with its small village centre home to a few shops, bars, restaurants and market stalls. Very popular are the numerous mineral springs and treatments available in both the town and its hotels and these draw in visitors looking to be refreshed and revived! Am guessing as a result of a night in Golden Sands or Sunny Beach!

I enjoyed my time here relaxing and unwinding amongst the cypresses, fig trees and lilies that fill the park that surrounds the resort.

St Konstantin is small, affordable and 8 km away from Varna and is a far cry from the hubbub of the other larger resorts.

Cape Kaliakra

If I said that one of the top three courses I have played anywhere in the world was in Bulgaria you would probably think I was joking or I had only played well… three courses in the world. Well actually no!

The region of Cape Kaliakra hosts the Lighthouse, Black Sea Rama and the jewel in the Bulgarian golfing crown, Thracian Cliffs. As a golf destination, Bulgaria continues to attract guests through excellent pricing, the attractive mix of beach and golf and its reputation.

Thracian Cliffs is top class and I can only describe it as if you were playing a round of golf along the white cliffs of Dover… the views are amazing and the golf is immaculate although prepare to lose a few balls over the edge especially if you tend to veer right off the tee!

The staff here at Thracian Cliffs were so lovely. I spent some time talking to the young guys and girls pictured down at the beach and they were so excited to be working at that time for a very new concept in Bulgaria. They shared the owner’s vision to put Bulgaria on the world’s golfing map and within a few years, I learned that Thracian Cliffs had been selected as a venue for a PGA (Professional Golf Association) tournament so as a team they succeeded and I was delighted for them and the country.

A little story while I was staying at the Lighthouse Golf Resort and Spa. I was lying by the pool shown in the picture below and suddenly a lady who was the only other person using the facilities about ten yards from me jumped up as if she had been ejected from a James Bond car. A rather large and slippery snake had taken refuge under her lounger so both I and the chief barman were called into action to capture it and send it on its way which we did. We never saw the poor lady again.

As you move south and take the one-hour drive of 55kms to the resort of Obzor you move into what is considered Bulgaria’s southern resorts and these are normally served by flights into Bourgas or as written in the Bulgarian non-Cyrillic version – Burgas.

Thracian Cliffs, Bulgaria Summer Travel Holidays Blog
Thracian Cliffs

Obzor

Once again the star attraction is the 10km long sandy, clean beach, making it ideal for family bathing and activities. There are two parts to this beach the main part and then the quieter south beach.

Several large beachfront hotels are catering for the holidaymaker’s needs but it’s worth noting that Obzor is small, peaceful and part of a community of seven villages centred around Obzor. In the village, there are lots of bistros, local shops and market stalls ideal for discovering during those barmy summer evenings.

If you want an excursion away from Obzor then you could try visiting the local salt pans or the natural mud baths….they will not only improve your skin but also guarantee a fun day out with no doubt a few selfies for your social media followers – just don’t drop your phone as you will never find it!

Elenite

This village is situated in a quiet bay with a huge fine sandy beach offering a great choice of water-based activities.

Accommodation here is generally in hotels or in the beautifully designed villas that are set amongst the bordering green meadows, mountains and hills that run down towards the sea.

Elenite is a fantastic place for a family holiday or couples looking for a more relaxed holiday in the Summer sun.

For many, the beauty of Elenite is that it offers the best of both worlds as the resort is quiet yet you are within reach of the lively Sunny Beach should you get the urge to have what is called these days a “blowout”!

Elenite Beach Summer Holidays, Bulgaria
Elenite Beach Summer Holidays, Bulgaria

Sveti Vlas

Just 5km north of Sunny Beach resort and 9km from Nessebar the small resort of Sveti Vlas (or St Vlas) is well known for its lovely marina where yacht hire is popular as is just relaxing in the many bars and restaurants that overlook the bobbing boats and lovely beach.

St Vlas is also ideal for those looking to have a peaceful base yet get out and about to explore the surrounding resorts and countryside, the stunning marina, bars, restaurants and luxurious hotels.

Sunny Beach

Now, where do I start!? My first introduction was to pop into the company’s Sunny Beach office and meet the team of experienced and friendly staff managing the resort after which I took a stroll to take in the sights, smells and sounds of the strip! If I have the time I always love to do this as I find it the best way to get to know a place – just walk, stop for a drink, just one for the road of course and observe.

What I soon discovered that afternoon was every street was the same – full of noisy themed bars and clubs all trying to outshine the next, restaurants of every style imaginable, stalls selling beach items and tacky souvenirs, fairground rides for the daring or the paralytic and enough tattoo, body piercing and hair plaiting stations to keep a Premiership football team looking the part and out of mischief for a week…. well maybe not.

The cherry on the Black Sea cake is the beautiful long soft sandy beach which attracts sun worshippers and families in their droves. In some areas testosterone fuelled bare-chested and often sunburnt lads would congregate and look to demonstrate their sporting or drinking prowess as a kind of mating ritual to attract the female who more often than not was more interested in her tan lines, her OK magazine and where the next strawberry daiquiri was coming from.

The highly dependable weather during peak season is so incredibly hot that the premium-priced but still, great value bars and restaurants located on the beach were always busy offering those stylish cool cocktails along with Ibiza-style vibes and comfy seating areas to catch the setting sun. I loved this time of day in Sunny Beach and I enjoyed my time exploring however I kind of knew that this was the calm before the storm.

Sunny Beach Promenade, Bulgaria Travel Blog
Sunny Beach Promenade, Bulgaria Travel Blog

Why Party in Sunny Beach, Bulgaria?

At night the decibels are ramped up, the neon lights come out to play, and restaurant and bar owners showcase their offerings and try to entice you through the door while the screams from the rollercoaster get louder by the minute. As night turns into morning characters emerge from the shadows and the neon signs of seedier establishments flicker into life while of course, the beat of the club continues along with the body piercing long into the early hours…..

Sunny Beach is one of the most talked about party resorts in Europe but do you know what, it is what it is and for the price, I can guarantee that if you are in your teens or twenties and streetwise you will have the time of your life. If you are a family the children will love it and if you are a middle-aged travel blogger observing life and all its facets, it’s all part of life’s rich tapestry. I just wish I was 18 again!

Excursions from Sunny Beach, Bulgaria?

Probably the most popular excursion just outside of Sunny Beach is to a place called Khans Tent. Here you can enjoy a never-ending meal of cooked meats, salads and vegetables all washed down with copious amounts of alcohol while being entertained by various Bulgarian acts from clowns to plate spinners and dancers to trapeze artists. The location also boasts a great place to view and take a group pic of Sunny Beach from up high on the mountainside. Book ahead as this is a very popular and often riotous night!

Other trips you can enjoy include a sightseeing tour of Nessebar, jeep safaris and fishing or sunset cruises on the Black Sea. Sunny Beach is the signature Bulgaria Summer Holidays Resort – just brace yourself for the ride!

Nessebar Old Town

One place in Bulgaria that is universally loved is Nessebar. A UNESCO-protected town due to the ancient medieval fortress with a famous wooden windmill at the entrance to the area known as the Old Town. I too was captivated by Nessebar and liked its pretty little streets full of revival-style houses, art and crafts stalls, souvenir shops, quaint bars and restaurants and the ancient ruins of St Sophia church. Somewhere I spent many an hour was the central square where you can grab a cooling drink and just people-watch for hours on end. I would also recommend a walk along the peninsula to get a true feel of the town and its location.

Regular buses run from Nessebar to Sunny Beach and in the town itself, there is a fun road train to get you to the main sights. Another quirky excursion is to book the red double-decker bus from your hotel to take you on a tour and down to the harbour where you can pick up a catamaran and head out past the gorgeous statue of St Nicolas out onto the Black Sea. If you are lucky as I was, you may spot wild dolphins as the sun is setting. This is by far the best way to see dolphins in Bulgaria and not via the Dolphinarium in Varna which has a long history of animal welfare problems – avoid it!

There is something quite magical about Nessebar and it’s a place I would go back to in a heartbeat. During the day it’s busy with tourists and visitors but that makes you appreciate the peace and tranquillity at the start of the day with a strong coffee and a pastry and at the end of the day with that refreshing sundowner!

Nessebar Fortress, Bulgaria
Nessebar Fortress, Bulgaria

Pomorie

The resort of Pomorie is slightly different to others in that it is famous as a place of healing and rejuvenation as it hosts a variety of mud, clay, salt and water treatments that are almost guaranteed to reinvigorate the body and mind. Quite clearly I have yet to undergo any of these therapies!

Aside from all this healthy stuff, there is the usual array of bars and restaurants and a lovely Blue Flag beach to enhance your stay still further.

There are also several cultural attractions in the small town with museums and entertainment galore.

Sozopol

Without a doubt, this is my favourite Bulgaria summer holiday resort and a bit of an undiscovered gem in my opinion especially the excellent Hotel Selena at the far end of the horseshoe-shaped bay.

Sozopol has for starters a lovely beach which is shallow and calm for swimming due to its shape. Backing the beach is a promenade overlooking the sea and packed with easy-going bars and restaurants offering al fresco dining and great views. Behind the path, there is a road which is also full of stalls with both souvenirs and fast food outlets such as kebabs, ice creams and pancakes.

Then on the other side of this road, there is a lovely fruit and vegetable market and in the late afternoon and early evenings smartly turned out and well looked after horses take visitors from one end of the bay round to the old town on the peninsula with its hilly cobbled streets, revival style wooden houses, pretty shops and a stunning array of restaurants perched above the rocks and overlooking the lovely bay.

Sozopol is a great place to wander and stop as often as you like for a refreshment or a lovely meal. Fresh fish in restaurants is highly recommended as is the famous Shopska Salad which is served everywhere in Bulgaria. This is a salad which is most often a side dish but could if you wish, be the main course of chopped tomato, cucumber, onion and peppers and often with some feta cheese and oil sprinkled on top – the colours represent that of the Bulgarian flag!

Where should I stay in Sozopol?

A little shout out to the 3-star Hotel Selena where I stayed all those years ago and after a quick Google tells me it is unsurprisingly still going strong. A charming little no-frills hotel offering a lovely welcome, a great service, a wonderful continental breakfast on the front terrace amid gardens and a tiny little pool. It’s also the type of hotel you get from time to time that is a bit of a secret yet it sells out very early in the year with repeat guests so get in quick for those peak dates! It always reminded me of the 3-star Hotel La Playa in Alghero, Sardinia – another hidden gem but please – keep that to yourself…

I loved Sozopol, it is not a party town, more for middle to older-aged couples I would say but it’s a place I wanted to mention in my Bulgaria Summer Travel blog as I continue to recommend it to this day!

Duni

Just 7 km from Sozopol and 40km from Burgas Airport is the purpose-built high-quality holiday resort of Duni or Dyuni as it is sometimes spelt.

Duni is, without doubt, a great place to go for your family holiday as it caters for children of all ages in terms of entertainment and activities across a range of different hotels from 4* excellent to 5* luxury. The difference here though is you don’t have the myriad of jumping bars and culture of excess drinking that you do in Sunny Beach during the peak season.

Despite not being someone who enjoys being surrounded by screaming brats… sorry I mean children, I instantly recognised this as a fantastic resort and probably the best Bulgaria summer holiday resort for families. It is safe and has the most magnificent 3 km long Blue Flag beach together with a huge choice of watersports.

Everything is available on-site so you do not need to go anywhere although the lovely Sozopol for a spot of history and a different view from your table is only up the road.

Duni Summer Holidays, Bulgaria
Duni Summer Holidays, Bulgaria

Bulgaria – Give It A Try

So after a short transfer from Duni to Bourgas Airport that was my Bulgaria road trip over – I had survived the potholes and opened my eyes to a country that previously I knew little about.

I experienced a real variety of resorts, I met Bulgarian people who want to welcome you to their country and like anywhere in the world all they ask is that you treat it with respect, I ate wonderful fish, and meat dishes and that healthy Shopska Salad and I had spent time relaxing on the award-winning sandy beaches as good as anywhere in the northern hemisphere.

Over the next few years, I discovered even more about the country – the truly beautiful nature and countryside of the interior, the capital of Sofia where I met the Bulgarian footballing legend Hristo Stoitchkov and was serenaded by the Bulgarian Eurovision entrant from 2008. I played yet more golf and skied the three winter resorts of Pamporovo, Borovets and Bansko….. all of this I will leave for another blog.

So banish those preconceptions and give Bulgaria a chance – yes of course you need to pick the right resort for you and/or your family as Bulgaria is most certainly not a one-size-fits-all destination and it’s certainly not all about Sunny Beach! 

Speak to your friendly travel agent or tour operator and find out more because there are hundreds of thousands of tourists, many repeat guests, heading on their Bulgaria Summer holidays and their view is the same as mine…. it is a sea view!

Contact Information

If you enjoyed my Bulgaria Black Sea Resorts blog then for further information contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the Bulgaria National Tourist Office.

A Montenegro Road Trip

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Montenegro Road Trip Blog
Montenegro Road Trip Blog
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A few years ago, I embarked on a Montenegro adventure, with a spur-of-the-moment road trip to explore the country’s finest points of interest and resorts. From the beaches of the Adriatic to the old-world charm of the ancient towns I had heard so much about this mysterious country – it was time to pay a visit.

I was on holiday in one of my favourite cities in the world, Dubrovnik in Croatia. However, as is the norm for me, it was not long before I got the urge to jump in the car and drive. Now given that over the previous decade, I had covered almost every square inch of Croatia and her Islands and having already travelled around Bosnia and Herzegovina, it provided me with the chance to get a taste of another neighbour, Montenegro.

I was staying at the Grand Villa Argentina, one of Croatia’s premier hotels, with breathtaking views across the Adriatic and the famous old town. On that crisp cloudless October morning, I remember enjoying a five-star breakfast on the terrace of the hotel with my morning reading. On this occasion, it was not the Dubrovnik Times, but instead, a road map planning my route so that I could work out the best places to see and the things to do in Montenegro, this relatively new European country. I was excited!

Border Control

The previous evening I had arranged my car hire for the day. You can always do this through your hotel reception or via the many car hire locations that exist in and around Dubrovnik. One key point to note here is that you need to mention, at the time of booking that you are driving into another country. It is just so the car hire company can issue the relevant paperwork to get you over the border without delay.

So at 8 am with a belly full of coffee and croissants, I turned the key of my little VW Golf and headed out onto what is called the Adriatic Highway taking me initially past the popular Croatian holiday resorts of Mlini, Plat and Cavtat. Now normally, driving past Cavtat has never been an option for me, especially on a glorious day however today I needed to control my urge to hang a right and just keep heading south.

Highway To Heaven

Over the years I have often been asked about driving along the Adriatic Highway. Quite simply the road is magnificent and the scenery is some of the finest you will experience in Europe, especially between Dubrovnik and Split. You will however from time to time, like anywhere I guess, get your boy racers or your slightly unnerving small stretch of exposed road but if you are a confident driver it is a dream.

Officially the Adriatic Highway runs from Zagreb, the capital of Croatia in the north to Dubrovnik and then to the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro in the south. You take in three/four countries – Croatia, then Bosnia & Herzegovina, then Croatia again and finally Montenegro. The odd reason for this is that Croatia is a country that is divided into two as there is the smallest stretch of the Bosnian coastline which always causes a few mutterings of excitement when on a tourist coach from Dubrovnik to Split.

Just 20 minutes after leaving Dubrovnik I saw border control up ahead and the large red, yellow, black and slightly intimidating flag of Montenegro.
Now bear in mind this was October so in the peak summer months there are likely to be long delays however on this occasion after a nervous smile to the surly guard, a quick flash of the passport and the car hire documentation, I was swiftly on my way.

Welcome to Montenegro

It is so strange that whenever I cross a border I kind of expect the country to change in the blink of an eye. I am not sure why I always feel like that or indeed what I was expecting from this Montenegro road trip however I guess I just needed to wait that little bit longer.

Within 15 minutes you reach the start of the Bay of Kotor and follow the water edge on your right-hand side. The Bay is also called Boka Bay just in case of any confusion when doing your research. The first town that you come to is the spa and health resort of Igalo with its healing sea mud and mineral water springs.

Closely following this is Herceg Novi – a much quieter town than some of the places to which I was heading but pretty in its own right with a castle and clock tower its most recognised attractions along with a multitude of charming little buildings, a central square and overall a very rustic feel.

Herceg Novi used to be very popular back in the days of the former Yugoslavia of which Montenegro was a part but since independence, the towns of Budva and Kotor have stolen the tourism limelight making Herceg Novi a bit of a hidden gem. In fact, during the winter months, it is very popular with artists who come for the peace, the subject and the conditions – sounds perfect!

A Picture Postcard

Sadly, I could not stop long in Herceg Novi as I was conscious of time.

An interesting place of note that back in 2013 I would then have driven past, is Portonovi.  Today this is a new Riviera-style resort with a fabulous marina and is home to the much-heralded and recently opened One & Only Luxury Hotel & Resort. It looks sensational given its location at the entrance and gateway to the Bay of Kotor. With my tour operating hat on I would say a Dubrovnik and Portonovi two-centre holiday would be just divine!

As I continued to follow the empty road along the shores of the bay and with the sun strengthening I simply had to pull over as I suddenly caught a glimpse of a view and a moment that was to remain with me to this very day.

Through the dark trees and with the early morning mist rising from the bay an elderly guy was out on his wooden boat pulling up his fishing nets. As I switched off the engine and wound down the window I remember closing my eyes and hearing nothing aside from occasional birdsong and the gentle lap of the oar as the fisherman serenely moved from point to point collecting up his nets.

I got out of my car, took a couple of photos and took a long deep breath of fresh air. That was the very moment, a picture postcard moment when I started to truly appreciate and feel the beauty of Montenegro!

The Bay That Keeps On Giving

Feeling energised and with that moment engrained in my mind I jumped back in the car and continued the gentle drive around the bay. Increasingly you start to notice the sustainable mussel and oyster farms close to the shore and before long I was presented with a further reason to pull over and take in yet another incredible view.

Just along a small track was what appeared to be a derelict little fishing landing site where a boat was beached on the pier in front of a neat jigsaw of perfectly still mussel and oyster beds. Once again this was another wonderful image and memory to cherish.

Within the space of 15 minutes, I had taken in two views that blew me away. I guess sometimes we all get lucky with a photo – or perhaps in Montenegro you simply cannot take a bad shot!

This Montenegro road trip itinerary was certainly living up to the hype!

The Islets

One of the first places I had earmarked for a stop was the town of Perast. Colleagues had mentioned it over the years and I had kept the name in the back of my mind just waiting for the opportunity. As I approached I noticed two islets in the bay which turned out to be the Island of St George and Our Lady of the Rocks.

The island of St George has a chequered past having been destroyed by both pirate invaders and also by an earthquake and today visitors are not allowed on the island.

Our Lady of the Rocks is however open to tourists and a boat trip to visit the church of the same name will cost just a handful of euros. The island celebrates its unique history on the 22nd of July each year when locals take their boats out to the island and throw rocks into the water according to legend when seamen found the rock they discovered it complete with an image of the Madonna and Child.

With my itinerary already rather predictably running behind I did not join one of the many organised boat excursions but instead took these snaps and continued just a few more minutes before parking up in Perast.

Perast

I knew that the small village of Perast was going to be one of the most beautiful stops when travelling around the Bay Of Kotor and I was not disappointed. The village is located at the base of the Hill of St Elijah – where incidentally from the top, you can get the very best views of Perast and the area.

Located just 20 minutes from Kotor, Perast is famous for the prehistoric human life that has been excavated by archaeologists so it’s a great place to visit not only for its beauty but also for its history too.

Perast today is home to just a few hundred residents but also over 30 churches and palaces all of which are in different states of repair from ruins to renovated. Key buildings include the Bujovic Palace, which houses the Perast Museum and the beautiful St Nicholas Church on the main square.

I spent half an hour just pottering around the harbour, some ancient buildings and generally just watching locals going about their early morning routine at a time when there were very few tourists. At either end of the village, there is a stoney beach where in the summer months many will head to catch some rays.

There are also several stunning restaurants with terraces on the waterfront offering a magical location to enjoy those shellfish that have come straight from the bay.

On any Montenegro road trip, Perast is a great stop if anything just to unwind for an hour or two and catch your breath with a glass of white wine (just one for the road mind!) and a couple of oysters before getting on your way again. I loved Perast and would highly recommend a visit.

Kotor

If you are looking for a town with old-world charm and with an ambience all of its own then 20 minutes from Perast is one of Montenegro’s stand-out towns and my next stop – is Kotor.

As you approach you will soon start to notice how the walls of the town are improbably built into the mountain side snaking their way up high above the bay.

Arriving at Kotor the first thing you are going to need is parking – although street parking is limited it is in my opinion best to find one of the designated car parks although it’s worth noting that places are limited here too. Prices are about 1-2 euros per hour and with most visitors staying for a morning or an afternoon that is not unreasonable.

Having left my little VW in a car park by the water I walked along the edge of the harbour past an enormous Thomsons cruise ship, then through a pretty flower market before arriving at the main gate into Kotor old town. There are three gates into Kotor, the River Gate, the South Gate and the most popular called the Sea Gate an important landmark in the town.

I must admit when I saw the cruise ship my heart sank as I did not want my experience ruined by dodging thousands of tourists all intent on getting their brief taste of Kotor. However that is exactly what I was doing, I was just in a different mode of transport, so I slapped myself and came up with an age-old plan. I just went in the opposite direction to those pesky tour guides. Genius!

The Tour of Kotor

As you walk through Sea Gate the town is there before you including the clock tower with its two faces that was built in 1602 and which has both Baroque and Gothic influences. This is a great rendezvous point in what’s known as the Old Arms Square. Under the clock tower is a Watchmakers shop that has been there almost as long as the clock… I guess you could say since the beginning of time!

As a visitor, you could of course now choose to take a guided tour where you will learn the history of the town. This can be 2-3 hours so if like me, you are on a tight itinerary you are best just walking around the simply stunning little cobblestone streets packed with shops selling everything from fashion to pottery and from trendy cafes to traditional restaurants.

Kotor attracts many artists whom I love to watch. I recall standing for some time watching this young lady in the picture below just painting an archway scene. This street was so peaceful yet had an atmosphere all to its own. I could have watched her for hours.

If you have the time and are feeling fit to take on the 1355 steps you could hike to the Saint Johns fortress which has the best views of the Bay of Kotor.

Other key sights in Kotor to consider would be the Kotor Cathedral, the Church of St Nicholas, the Old City Walls, the farmer’s markets, the Bazaar for cheap souvenirs and there is even a beach just a few minutes walk from the Old Town.

If I ever visit again I would love to stay in the town for the night as I am sure there is a completely different atmosphere to enjoy in what is one of the most beautiful and celebrated Adriatic towns today.

After a couple of blissful hours and with no harm being done to any flag-waving, megaphone-wielding tour guides I once again hit the road.

Becici

The next stop was a 30-minute drive to the holiday resort of Becici which is just 2 km from the town of Budva.

Becici has one of the finest beaches (mostly sand and some rock) in Montenegro. It has won many EU Blue Flag awards for its quality and cleanliness and attracts sun worshippers in their droves. The main promenade is lined with shops, cafes and restaurants and if you walk far enough you will reach the old original fishing village.

One of the reasons I chose to visit was because I knew that the 2006 James Bond movie, Casino Royale had been filmed at the Hotel Splendide. Being a fan of all things Bond I wanted to check it out so pulled into the car park and parked my little VW alongside a colourful selection of multi-million dollar vehicles… I could not see a silver Aston Martin mind but wow I knew I was in the right place!

I walked gingerly into reception conscious that my faded M&S shorts and loose-fitting Fat Face polo shirt were not perhaps really in keeping but on a 12-hour road trip of Montenegro you just can’t cater for every eventuality.

At the reception, I was directed past a cut-out of the James Bond logo and told to take a lift up to the top floor. On arrival, I was greeted by a characterless musclebound adonis who for all I knew could have been Blofeld’s bodyguard. I was promptly told I could not enter the casino itself as I was not there to play… I think it was my shorts. I was however allowed a brief look around a rather uninspiring foyer with views across the beach.

Now as it turns out the casino filming was done in the Czech Republic so that kind of made me feel better although I was disappointed not to lock eyes across a smokey roulette table with the latest Bond girl.  I had a brief look around this glitzy hotel which is geared towards the large numbers of Russian and Ukrainian tourists who spend and gamble big during the summer months.

I decided against a beverage on the terrace and got back behind the wheel …. besides I have never been a fan of dry Martini – shaken or stirred!

Budva

A stone’s throw from Becici is the stone-walled town of Budva – one of Montenegro’s most photographed and popular towns and the flagship location on the 35km long Budva Riviera.

The pedestrian-only Stari Grad (old town) attracts thousands of tourists like myself intent on walking within the Venetian-built walls and sampling the atmosphere of the architecture, cafes, boutiques and delightful restaurants.

I found local Montenegrins particularly in the traditional shops, bars, restaurants and outer villages to be friendly and welcoming. However, it was in Budva that I also found those who were keen to show off their wealth were actually less friendly, more closed, secretive and not as keen to engage and show their personality. Maybe that is just the way it is the world over. Do the trappings of excess bring true happiness?

Budva’s beaches (especially Jaz Beach) are extremely popular in the summer months mainly with Russian tourists. The island of Sveti Nikola pictured below is about 1km from Budva and can be reached by boat for 3 or 4 euros. Its nickname is Hawaii Island and visitors head there in the summer to relax on one of the three beaches that are also there.

There is also a guarded marina where a selection of multi-million dollar yachts are moored. I decided against parking nearby as I had already embarrassed myself enough in the Hotel Splendide!

Budva is very much a place to be seen and to let your hair down in the many cocktail bars, pubs and nightclubs that are prevalent throughout the town.

If you are looking for things to do outside of the main town then close to Budva there are other attractions such as monasteries, forests and a popular aquapark for a family day out.

Sveti Stefan

For years the one place in Montenegro that I had wanted to visit was Sveti Stefan. As a result, my Montenegro road trip from Dubrovnik was very much geared toward ensuring that I would get to see this unique fortified island village which is connected to the mainland by a slender narrow causeway.

Arriving mid-afternoon and just 15 minutes after leaving Budva I popped into a local supermarket and grabbed some Montenegrin snacks before taking the directions to Sveti Stefan – a name that always causes a snigger when pronounced in English.

The first stop for me was the deserted beach on a glorious October day. With two beaches on either side of the island village with the one to the south free to the general public and the one to the north belonging to the hotel on the island. The sea was too good to resist so a quick change in the car park ensured any passing dog walker didn’t catch sight of anything they shouldn’t. Why is it that when getting changed by your car you can never hold your towel and get your swimmers on in one movement? One of life’s great mysteries!

The beach was generally lovely sand but with a few stoney sections however, the water was divine and so beautifully calm and not too cold given the time of year. The area around the beach is mainly luxury residential homes but there was the pretty Milocer Park which is filled with olive trees and that wonderful familiar aroma of wild herbs and Mediterranean blossoms.

After my dip, I took a walk along the front to the entrance of the causeway. Would you believe it but the hotel on the island was closed for refurbishment and they were not allowing visitors. Sadly that meant the tremendous view from both the beach and the best lookout point up high at Church St Sava was all I got however that swim off the beach was a moment and a location to remember.

Back in the ’50s, the island was home to just 20 people but in the 60’s there opened a hotel that was soon to entice iconic celebrities from the time – Sophia Loren, Doris Day and Princess Margaret to name but a few.

Today the island is now part of the luxury Aman hotel chain and is therefore mostly off-limits to all but paying guests. There is a restaurant which can be booked and at times the hotel does organise island tours but these need careful planning and are not cheap. The hotel with its 58 rooms and apartments was also the location for one of my favourite sports stars to get married to his childhood sweetheart back in 2014 – the tennis player Novak Djokovic.

After all the years of selling this resort and promoting the country, I finally witnessed the view that graces a million guidebooks that promote Montenegro’s summer holidays. I had reached the furthest point on my trip and it was now time to turn around and leisurely drive back to Croatia.

Kamenari-Lepetane Ferry

To avoid the long journey back around the Bay via Kotor and Perast for a second time I took some local advice and headed for Lepetane where there was a fabulous little car ferry crossing to Kamenari.

An orderly queue led down to this little harbour where you paid a guy in a kiosk the princely sum of 5 euros to take you, the car and unlimited passengers across the bay. It took just a few minutes but was quite exciting to be on the water and gave you the feel-good factor in that you were saving yourself a heap of time.

I would highly recommend this little shortcut!

Reflections of Montenegro

Whenever I think about my brief Montenegro holiday, I think about that elderly man pulling his nets up on that gorgeous still morning at the edge of the Bay of Kotor.  He will never know that his simple daily routine was the catalyst for me discovering and falling in love with the beauty of his country. In the years since many hundreds of thousands of visitors will have taken that same road as me. I can only wonder if he was there having the same effect on them, as he did on me.

So there you have it. Just the best 12 hours on a road trip to Montenegro from Dubrovnik. The morning was taking in the scenery of the bay as well as the towns of Perast and Kotor where you can take lunch. Then in the afternoon a trip to Becici, Budva and the iconic Sveti Stefan. You will be back in Dubrovnik for dinner at eight and a well-deserved Prosek or Ojujsko beer on the terrace overlooking the old town.

There is so much more of the country to discover – the off-the-beaten-track mountains and hiking hotspots of Durmitor and Prokletije, the forest of Biogradska Gora, Lake Skadar, Stari Bar, Tivat and then there is the capital Podgorica. All of this is for another day and another blog!

For me, the attraction of Montenegro is in its unspoiled beauty, it’s about getting out on the road and into the fresh air, enjoying the incredible scenery, the nature and its old towns as opposed to the fast-developing modern glitz, the excess and the glamour of the casinos and bright lights… I just hope they keep the balance right in years to come.

The best road trips leave you wanting more and 12 hours in Montenegro was simply not enough!

Contact Information

For further information on any Montenegro summer holidays either contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the Montenegro Tourist Office.

I hope you enjoyed the story of my Montenegro Road Trip.

Le Mans 24 Hours – Then and Now

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Le Mans Jaguar 1988
Le Mans Jaguar 1988

Later today I will be hitting the road once again with a trip over to France for the 24 Heures Du Mans Motor Race in Le Mans in the region of Pays de La Loire.

It is over 30 years since I last attended this historic race which is one of the world’s big three races alongside the Monaco Grand Prix and the Indianapolis 500.

Back in those halcyon days of the late 80’s and early 90’s, I attended on four occasions with school friends in a variety of clapped-out motors that we all owned over time – a Triumph Spitfire, a VW Beetle, a Peugeot 205, a Renault 5, an Astra, a Lancia Delta Spider and even a Triumph TR4.

Clutching at Straws

On my last visit in 1993, the clutch on my Triumph Spitfire failed and so rather embarrassingly we ended up being towed back to the UK by some lads from Scunthorpe. Another year the tent leaked so badly that in stormy weather we binned it and slept in the car! There is normally some drama!

So on Thursday, I, along with three of those same school friends are heading down via a ferry from Portsmouth to Caen in one vehicle – my Ford Transit Custom Camper. It will be packed to the rafters with tents and creature comforts that we would never have dreamed of when we were all young pups! Mobile phones, event apps, chairs, a sat nav, a table, a wood burner, cutlery, pillows and of course, every camper’s best friend, wet wipes! Oh, how we have aged!

Not Just Motor Racing

As for the race, back then it was Jaguar, Mercedes, Mazda and Peugeot that brought home the spoils. This year – who knows, who even cares! Le Mans is about the experience – I mean the cars are racing for 24 hours so you generally have no idea what’s going on or was that just the beer?! I was a quick runner back in those days and the main image is after I scaled the fence and sprinted onto the track to be amongst the first to greet the winning Jaguar across the line in 1988 – I can’t see that amount of energy exerted this year – I will probably be asleep!

From Friday there is a parade and a party atmosphere in the city then over the weekend at the circuit there are heaps of attractions to keep us entertained from a wild French fun fair, live music every night, a British Pub and an assortment of food and drinks outlets! The 24 Heures Du Mans is not just about motor racing – that’s why I love it.

Follow My Journey

The British media give this iconic event very little coverage so if you are interested in what this event has to offer then you can follow my adventures on Facebook and Instagram but if history is anything to go by, I can’t promise a smooth ride!

Till next time

#justonefortheroad

Rouen – The City Of A Hundred Spires

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Although many of us have been captivated by the romance and allure of Paris, there are other charming destinations within easy reach of the French capital. One such delightful city that is easily accessible by train is Rouen.

Introducing Rouen

Rouen was once described by Victor Hugo as the city of ‘a hundred spires’. It is the capital of Normandy and a destination steeped in history, culture, and charm.

Nestled along the banks of the river Seine, the city is renowned for its picturesque medieval architecture, rich artistic heritage, its excellent University and its association with Joan of Arc.

Departure from Paris: The Journey Begins

From Paris Charles de Gaulle you should take a train to Gare St-Lazare where you can pick up the service to Rouen. Prices range from approximately 30 to 80 euros depending, as always, on how early you book.

The journey takes approximately two and a half hours with the scenery soon changing from urban landscapes to those wonderful French rolling green fields and rural countryside villages.

Arriving in Rouen: A Glimpse of Medieval Majesty

Upon arrival in Rouen, you are immediately struck by the city’s medieval grandeur. The towering spires of cathedrals punctuate the skyline, casting shadows over cobblestone streets steeped in history.

Having settled into your hotel many will make their first stop, the magnificent 12th-century Rouen Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture that has inspired artists and writers for centuries. Remarkably this building used to be the tallest in the world and even today is still the tallest church in France.

The Church of Saint Joan of Arc stands at the old market square in which the saint was burned at the stake in the early 15th century. Today the pretty houses and buildings that border the square provide a wide range of cafes, brasseries, and restaurants to entice visitors.

Immerse Yourself in History: Museums and Landmarks

Rouen is a city that wears its history proudly, and nowhere is this more evident than in its museums and landmarks. Wander the halls of the Musée des Beaux-Arts and enjoy the many works by renowned artists such as Monet, Renoir, and Delacroix.

The Joan of Arc History Museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the life of the legendary heroine, while the Gros-Horloge, a stunning astronomical clock dating back to the 14th century, stands as a testament to Rouen’s medieval past.

Retail Therapy: Shopping In Rouen

For those inclined to indulge in a spot of retail therapy, Rouen offers a wealth of shopping opportunities. The charming old town, with its cobblestone streets, half-timbered houses, and bustling markets, invites visitors to wander. The bustling city centre is lined with charming boutiques, artisan shops, and trendy galleries. From high-end fashion to locally crafted goods, there’s something to suit every taste and budget. For a snapshot of local life visit the Marché aux Fleurs (Flower Market), where fragrant blooms and vibrant produce fill the stalls, creating a feast for the senses.

If you’re a fan of exploring flea markets and antique shops, head over to Rue Damette and Rue Saint-Romain. These popular streets are brimming with intriguing art, ceramic workshops, and antique stores offering second-hand treasures. This neighbourhood is an ideal spot to immerse yourself in the city’s ambience and indulge in its culinary delights.

Parks and Gardens: Finding Tranquillity in Nature

Amidst the hustle and bustle of city life, Rouen is proud of its many parks and gardens.

The Jardin des Plantes, where lush greenery and colourful blooms provide a serene escape from the urban chaos while the Parc de la Presqu’île Rollet, with its sweeping views of the Seine River, offers the perfect spot for a picnic or a moment of quiet reflection.

For those interested in outdoor activities, Rouen’s picturesque riverside promenades, lush parks, and scenic trails offer opportunities for strolls, cycling, and boating.

Evening Entertainment: Dining and Culture

As is the way with many of the best French cities there is a vibrant dining scene. From cosy bistros serving up traditional Normandy fare to chic wine bars and gourmet restaurants, the city offers a culinary adventure to suit every palate.

If you are looking to try some local dishes then how about the Normandy-style sole meunière, scallops a la Rouennaise, Agneau de Pré-Salé (Lamb) or why not indulge in the many varieties of Normandy cheese, particularly the Camembert?

The apples are famous in this region and as such the local cider is a great choice to wash down some of those fabulous dishes as are, of course, the French wines.

As a sweet treat and something to perhaps bring home, how about Les Larmes de Jeanne d’Arc which translates to the Tears of Joan of Arc – these are almonds coated in caramel and chocolate.

After dinner, take in some culture at the Théâtre des Arts or you could catch a live music gig at one of the city’s many bars and clubs.

Festivals & Events

Throughout the year Rouen boasts a plethora of events including art and history to photography and music.

Perhaps the standout event planned for 2024 is the 5th edition of the “Normandie Impressionniste” festival which showcases masters such as Claude Monet, Camille Pissarro and Alfred Sisley. From the 22nd of March to the 22 of September 2024, this event will celebrate the 150th anniversary of the birth of the Impressionist movement!

Where To Stay In Rouen

Rouen offers a diverse array of accommodations to suit every budget and preference. Here are some suggestions:

Luxury: Hôtel de Bourgtheroulde, Autograph Collection
Known for its stunning architecture blending historic charm with modern luxury, this 5* hotel offers an opulent spa, gourmet dining, and elegant rooms.

Mid-Range: Mercure Rouen Centre Champ de Mars
Situated in the heart of Rouen, this 4* hotel offers comfortable rooms, friendly service, and convenient access to the city’s attractions at an affordable price.

Budget: Ibis Rouen Champ de Mars
Perfect for budget-conscious travellers, this 3* hotel offers simple yet comfortable accommodations, a central location, and excellent value for money.

Explore: In the Vicinity

If you are staying in Rouen for a few days, then how about hiring a car and heading out and exploring some of the treasures of Normandy:

The picturesque village of Giverny is located approximately 80 kilometres from Rouen. Explore the famous Claude Monet’s House and Gardens, where you can admire the beautiful water lilies and vibrant flowerbeds that inspired many of Monet’s paintings.

Discover the charming port town of Honfleur, situated about 90 kilometres from Rouen. Stroll along the cobbled streets lined with half-timbered houses, explore the historic Vieux Bassin (Old Harbour), and visit the Sainte-Catherine Church, the largest wooden church in France.

Explore the stunning cliffs and natural arches of Étretat, located approximately 90 kilometres northwest of Rouen. Walk along the coastal path for breathtaking views of the English Channel and visit iconic landmarks such as the Needle Rock and the famous Arch of Étretat.

A Journey to Remember

From its medieval landmarks to its vibrant cultural scene, Rouen offers a unique and fascinating alternative to Paris. With its easy rail connection, superb gastronomy, rich history, and French flair, this timeless gem of Normandy is very much worth a visit.

Contact Information

For more information visit the Office de Tourisme de Rouen or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.

My thanks to Rouen Tourisme for providing the images for which all copyrights are stated.

This article is featured in the Aurigny Airlines Magazine “En Voyage“.

The Allure of Agadir

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El Had Souk Agadir
El Had Souk Agadir
Home » Travel Blog

When good friends seek advice about a destination I’ve yet to visit, my inquisitive nature takes centre stage. I have that desire to discover more and become intrigued as to why, when there are so many popular Winter Sun choices, you would choose Agadir – a Moroccan city that is, to my knowledge, not really at the forefront of people’s minds.

My pals Christian and Sara were in search of a value-for-a-money all-inclusive hotel along with a short(ish) flight, guaranteed sunshine, a great beach, a relaxing pool and water sports to satisfy Christian’s love of paddleboarding. Now I would have suggested the Canaries, Cyprus, Egypt, Tunisia, Gambia or even Cape Verde but they, to my delight, were set upon Agadir!

The next time we spoke they had booked the four-hour flight on easyJet Airlines from London Gatwick Airport to the city of Agadir in Morocco. I subsequently discovered that travel companies including Jet2holidays, Tui and Easyjet Holidays offer flights and holidays to Agadir from a choice of UK airports including Gatwick, Bournemouth, Birmingham, Luton, Manchester, Edinburgh and Glasgow.

Having seriously questioned my travel knowledge after a lifetime in the industry, I promptly wished them a good time while asking for updates and photos as I was genuinely interested to know what Agadir had to offer. Let’s find out!

So Why Agadir?

Travellers are drawn to Agadir, a coastal treasure in southwest Morocco, by its value for money, its sandy beaches, lively culture, and the nearby Atlas Mountains that offer both adventure and cultural attractions.

I find it strange that Agadir, particularly as a Winter Sun destination, doesn’t receive more space on the pages of travel websites and newspapers. These days people like Christian, Sara and myself, are looking for somewhere a little different, non-commercial and, dare I say it, far away from the stereotypical British Holidaymaker that has changed or should that be tainted many a holiday resort. Agadir would, on the face of it, tick the box!  

Sun-Kissed Beaches

Unquestionably, Agadir’s most alluring feature is its nearly six-mile stretch of immaculate beaches along the Atlantic coast. The golden, silky beaches are ideal for taking leisurely walks, tanning, or engaging in a variety of water sports including paddleboarding (Christian was happy), surfing, or just lounging in the Moroccan sun.

On the beach there are camel and horse rides and for those looking for a bit more of a thrill then how about Quad Bikes and Dune Buggies? I have heard mixed reviews about the care of the camels and horses but as this is second-hand, all I would say is make sure you thoroughly check it out before handing over any money!

Another tip is to make sure your insurance covers these types of activities.

The Historic Kasbah of Agadir

Perched atop a hill overlooking Agadir, the Kasbah of Agadir Oufla stands as a testament to the city’s rich history and cultural heritage. Originally built in the 16th century by the Saadian dynasty, this fortress served as a strategic stronghold, offering panoramic views of the surrounding landscape and the Atlantic Ocean beyond. Despite its storied past, much of the Kasbah was destroyed during a devastating earthquake in 1960, leaving behind only remnants of its former glory.

Today, visitors like Christian and Sara can explore the ruins of the Kasbah, wandering through the crumbling walls and remnants of towers that once guarded the city. While the site may be in a state of disrepair, its commanding position provides an ideal vantage point for capturing sweeping views of Agadir’s modern skyline, bustling port, and sun-drenched beaches below. The journey to the Kasbah is an adventure in itself, with winding pathways leading up the hillside and offering glimpses of traditional Moroccan architecture along the way.

Despite its dilapidated state, the Kasbah of Agadir Oufla remains a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike, drawing visitors who are eager to delve into Agadir’s past and admire its stunning vistas. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a photography buff, or simply seeking a tranquil escape from the city below, a visit to the Kasbah promises a memorable experience that captures the essence of Agadir.

Souk El Had

I could not help but smile at the name of this souk. Let’s hope after the haggling you have not been “had”.

Jokes aside you need to take in the colourful local culture at Souk El Had, one of Morocco’s biggest markets. The vibrant textiles, loud conversation of the locals, and scents of spices combine to create a sensory feast at this busy marketplace.

Wander around its lanes, bargain for trinkets, and, as Sara is doing in the image below, enjoy some of the Moroccan street food flavours.

Agadir Marina

The Agadir Marina offers a taste of contemporary luxury. This chic waterfront neighbourhood serves up fine restaurants, designer shopping, and a bustling nightlife.

Enjoy a stroll around the marina, take in the yachts, and take your pick from a variety of hip cafés and eateries serving both regional and global fare.

Valley Of The Birds

I was surprised to hear that in Agadir away from the bustling city life, there is the Valley of the Birds. This serene retreat invites visitors to immerse themselves in nature’s tranquillity and discover an array of bird species.

Dating back several decades, the Valley of the Birds has been a cherished attraction in Agadir, enchanting generations of visitors with its natural beauty and diverse bird population. Whether you’re a seasoned birdwatcher or simply seeking a stroll in picturesque surroundings, the valley’s winding pathways offer ample opportunities to spot a variety of feathered friends in their natural habitat.

Visitors can expect to encounter a wide range of bird species, including colourful parrots, majestic peacocks, and graceful swans, among others. Admission to the Valley of the Birds is typically affordable, making it an accessible and budget-friendly attraction for visitors of all ages.

Paradise Valley

Paradise Valley, nestled in the Atlas Mountains near Agadir, Morocco, is a breathtaking natural wonder renowned for its stunning scenery, lush green valleys, cascading waterfalls, and crystal-clear natural pools.

The journey to Paradise Valley is an adventure in itself, as travellers navigate winding mountain roads bordered by rugged cliffs and verdant landscapes. One of the highlights of Paradise Valley is its series of natural rock pools, where you can take a refreshing dip in the cool, turquoise waters or simply relax on the sun-warmed rocks.

For the more adventurous traveller, Paradise Valley also offers opportunities for hiking and exploration. Guided treks through the surrounding mountains reveal hidden trails, panoramic viewpoints, and stunning vistas, allowing visitors to fully immerse themselves in the natural beauty of the Atlas Mountains.

Atlas Mountains
Atlas Mountains

Traditional Moroccan Cuisine

One of the many delights from a visit to Morocco is to sample the diverse range of culinary delights. In Agadir, you can enjoy some of the finest Moroccan cuisine, including iconic dishes such as tagine, couscous, and pastilla. Explore local eateries to experience the variety of spices that characterize these mouthwatering dishes.

In Agadir, indulging in a traditional Moroccan tea experience is a must-do for visitors looking to immerse themselves in the local culture. Head to one of the city’s charming cafes or tea houses, where you can savour the rich flavours of mint tea, a beloved beverage enjoyed throughout Morocco. Sit back, relax, and soak up the vibrant atmosphere as you sip on this sweet and refreshing drink, served in ornate tea glasses and accompanied by sweet pastries or savoury snacks.

Whether you’re enjoying a leisurely afternoon break or a post-dinner treat, sharing a cup of tea with friends or locals is a delightful way to embrace the warmth and hospitality of Agadir.

Agadir Nightlife

In Agadir, the nightlife scene offers a vibrant and diverse array of entertainment options for tourists looking to unwind after a day of exploration. Whether you’re seeking a laid-back evening sipping cocktails by the beach or a lively night of dancing until dawn, Agadir has something for everyone in a safe, fun and welcoming environment.

One of the highlights of Agadir’s nightlife is its beachfront bars and clubs, where visitors can enjoy stunning ocean views while savouring refreshing drinks and soaking up the lively atmosphere. Beachside lounges like La Cantina and Sunset Beach Club offer a relaxed ambience and often feature live music or DJs spinning tunes into the night. For those looking to dance the night away, popular nightclubs such as Papagayo Beach Club and So Night Lounge provide an energetic setting with top-notch sound systems and vibrant crowds.

In addition to beachfront venues, Agadir boasts a variety of bars, pubs, and discos scattered throughout the city centre such as Bodeguita. Visitors can explore the bustling streets of Agadir’s downtown area, where they’ll find an eclectic mix of bars offering everything from traditional Moroccan cocktails to international beers and spirits.

Whether you’re in the mood for a casual drink with friends or a lively night of dancing, Agadir’s nightlife scene promises an unforgettable experience for tourists seeking excitement and entertainment after dark.

Top 10 Things To Do in Agadir, Morocco

These attractions offer an excellent range of experiences, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the culture and beauty of Agadir, Morocco.

  1. Agadir Beach: Relax on the city’s beautiful sandy beach, known for its calm waters and stunning sunsets.
  2. Kasbah Agadir Oufella: Visit the historic Kasbah ruins for panoramic views of the city and the bay.
  3. Souk El Had d’Agadir: Explore this bustling market to experience Moroccan culture, shop for souvenirs, and sample local delicacies.
  4. Crocoparc Agadir: Discover a variety of plant species and learn about crocodile conservation at this unique botanical garden and crocodile park.
  5. Agadir Marina: Take a stroll along the marina, lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants, and enjoy views of the yachts and boats.
  6. Valley of the Birds: Enjoy a peaceful walk amidst lush greenery and a variety of bird species in this picturesque park.
  7. La Medina d’Agadir: Explore this reconstructed traditional Moroccan marketplace, featuring shops, artisan workshops, and cultural performances.
  8. Agadir Argan Factory: Learn about the production of argan oil, a Moroccan speciality, and shop for high-quality skincare products.
  9. Amazighe Heritage Museum: Discover the rich history and culture of the Amazigh people of Morocco through exhibits and artefacts.
  10. Taghazout Beach: Experience the laid-back vibe of this charming fishing village, known for its excellent surfing conditions and bohemian atmosphere.

Where To Stay in Agadir, Morocco

Christian and Sara enjoyed their stay at The Hotel Riu Tikada Beach Resort citing the beach, pool and breakfast as the best features!

This adult-only, four-star, all-inclusive hotel has 254 rooms and is situated on the Agadir beach. There are three outdoor swimming pools available, all perfect for soaking up the sun amid the mild southern Moroccan weather.

In addition to its classic Hamman and gym, the hotel has an excellent thalassotherapy facility where you can get massages, beauty treatments, and hairdressing services. For dining, the main restaurant serves traditional Moroccan fare for lunch and evening, in addition to buffet breakfasts with live cooking stations.

Here are some other accommodation options in Agadir to consider:

Luxury:

  1. Sofitel Agadir Royal Bay Resort: A luxurious beachfront resort offering elegant rooms, multiple dining options, a spa, and stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean.
  2. Robinson Club Agadir: An upscale resort offering modern rooms, various sports facilities, entertainment programs, and a serene beachfront location.
  3. Hyatt Place Taghazout Bay: A luxurious hotel with contemporary rooms, a rooftop terrace, an infinity pool, a fitness centre, and access to the Taghazout Bay Golf Course.
  4. Royal Atlas & Spa: A deluxe beachfront hotel boasting stylish accommodations, several restaurants, a spa, outdoor pools, and easy access to Agadir’s attractions.

Mid-Range Boutique:

  1. Hotel Timoulay & Spa Agadir: A stylish boutique hotel offering comfortable rooms, a spa, an outdoor pool, and a tranquil ambience near Agadir’s attractions.
  2. Labranda Les Dunes d’Or: A charming boutique hotel featuring cosy rooms, a swimming pool, gardens, and close to the beach.
  3. Allegro Agadir by Barcelo Hotel Group: A contemporary hotel offering well-appointed rooms, a pool, dining options, and a convenient location for exploring Agadir.

Budget:

  1. Hotel Timoulay & Spa Agadir: A budget-friendly option with comfortable rooms, a spa, and convenient amenities for a pleasant stay.
  2. Labranda Les Dunes d’Or: Affordable accommodation with cosy rooms, a swimming pool, and a relaxed atmosphere near the beach.
  3. Allegro Agadir by Barcelo Hotel Group: A wallet-friendly hotel offering simple rooms, basic amenities, and a convenient location for exploring Agadir’s attractions.

Contact Information

Agadir is a year-round destination and offers a wonderful fusion of natural beauty, rich culture, and sun-kissed beaches. Whether you’re looking for adventure in the mountains, rest on the beaches, or cultural exploration in the busy markets, this is a destination worth considering for your next Winter Sun holiday.

My thanks to Christian and Sara for introducing me to this destination and for supplying all the photos you see. They had a great time and are now busy considering where next…. I am secretly hoping it’s another off-the-beaten-track gem.

Normally I would suggest contacting the Morocco National Tourist Office which I did through their website contact as well as their social media but got no response – maybe you will have better luck! You can also try Visit Agadir and of course, you can always speak to your local travel agent or specialist tour operator.