For December 2021 my Spotlight on “Croatia” features a selection of travel blogs on this incredible country along the Adriatic coast.
These travel blogs will feature information on the regions, cities, towns, and islands as well as tips and recommendations on things to do and places to go.
Croatia has for many years been a place that has felt like home to me and if you have never been you need to add it to your list of places to visit in your lifetime. There are few countries in Europe if not the world that have such an array of jaw dropping sights and vistas than this small European jewel.
The main cities of Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Split and Pula often receive the headlines but there is so much more just waiting to be explored. Whether it’s a small traditional village in the countryside of Istria to an island for the rich and famous off the Dalmatian coast you will not be disappointed.
Keep an eye on my website and social media for updates.
So far for this “Spotlight Croatia” we have the following:
For more information on holidays to Croatia check out the Croatia National Tourist Board or contact your local travel agent or specialist tour operator to the region.
Since the Covid-19 pandemic arrived on our doorsteps the effects have of course been immense.
Something that many of us turned to, including myself, during these troubled times was our nature, our countryside, our wildlife and also those domestic animals that share and enrich our daily lives.
The increase in those of us taking on the responsibility of dogs, cats and small animals such as rabbits, hamsters and guinea pigs has been considerable. More than 3 million households have acquired a pet since March 2020 with some sadly coming from unscrupulous breeders who cashed in on the increased demand. We all hope that the decisions we made to take on a new pet were well-considered and not a spur-of-the-moment choice to help us cope during those dark days of lockdown.
Sadly animal sanctuaries such as the Raystede Centre For Animal Welfare in Ringmer, East Sussex have noticed a rise in animals being handed in since restrictions were lifted as some owners are no longer able to manage now that their lives are returning to some kind of normality. Perhaps the term “a dog is not just for Christmas” should also now be accompanied by the line “a pet is not just for lockdown”.
This week I took a trip to the Raystede Centre to not only enjoy a morning at the sanctuary but also to understand the work that they have been doing throughout the pandemic and the pressures they now encounter as they endeavour to look after the varied and increasing number of animals in their care.
Autumn Days
On a chilly autumn November day, my visit coincided with the sanctuary gearing up for a range of Christmas fundraising events and so the timing was always going to be the calm before the storm. I liked that!
To further that feeling of tranquillity, those pesky noisy kids were all at school (sorry parents), the rain was in the air and the government had recently imposed restrictions across the UK regarding an outbreak of Avian Flu meaning the aviaries and parts of the sanctuary were out of bounds even though the Raystede centre themselves were not directly affected.
Planning Your Visit
To visit you need to register online and arrive during a half-hour time slot. The Raystede Centre is free to visit – a subject that is often discussed given that the sanctuary requires an incredible £5,495 per day to function.
From speaking to one of the welcoming and excellent staff on duty the reason for the free entry is simply because visitors are not guaranteed to see animals. This is not a zoo – it is an animal welfare sanctuary where every care is taken for animals that have been neglected, abused or exploited and who are here for rescue and rehabilitation. In other words, the animals are not performing monkeys!
After considering this I very much understood this decision. You can only imagine if they slapped a tenner on the entry gate and little Timmy and Tabitha did not see their favourite cuddly animal. Can you imagine the uproar, more from the parents than the kids who would in this day and age probably insist on their money back?
In my opinion, the Raystede Centre is wise to keep it free and hope that the penny drops…. both metaphorically and at one of the collection points.
Booths Not Kiosks
Arriving at Raystede there is ample free parking (well there was on a quiet November day). Two really lovely friendly ladies greeted me at the welcome kiosk with beaming smiles although I was soon jokingly ticked off when I referred to their cabin as a kiosk…. it was a state-of-the-art booth!
These happy welcoming ladies checked my online registration, handed me a map, and a few pieces of promotional literature then gave me a couple of tips (not on the horses but about the horses) and I was on my way.
The Raystede Cafe
The first stop was the busy Raystede Cafe serving from 10 am to 4 pm every day a variety of coffees. teas and delicious cakes as well as breakfasts and lunches. As you would expect the food is responsibly and locally sourced and enjoyed in lovely bright, fresh surroundings with a new outside eating terrace for when the weather is a little better than it was when I visited!
Every penny spent here helps them look after the animals in their care meaning that the plum and apple crumble that I simply had to try, tastes even better than it already is. There is also an excellent WIFI service which puts my local Costa Coffee in Haywards Heath to shame!
So having got my bearings it was time to have a wander. The next stop would have been the aviary had it not been for that darn Avian Flu restriction so it was on to the cattery where one of the lovely staff was cleaning out a couple of cages with two mischievous black cats watching on and occasionally pouncing on anything that moved or was removed from their hopefully temporary home! I have always loved cats – they just do what they want and look after themselves…. often the best way to be.
The Learning Garden
Next up was the Yurt and Learning Garden where regular events take place for up to 30 children who will receive age-appropriate learning activities and challenges in a wonderful enclosed and safe environment. This is great for school parties or even small groups celebrating birthdays or special occasions. One subject I was interested to ask about was whether the subject of littering is explained to children. I was pleased to hear it is mentioned. This continues to be one of the biggest issues I have with the “Great” British public when I see bottles, cans, sweet wrappers and crisp packets along country lanes and out in our glorious countryside. Then then are our beaches!!
During the darkest days of COVID-19, the sanctuary was closed and as a result, there were no visitors. This had a devastating impact on the sanctuary but it also led to some interesting changes with hidden benefits. For example, they used to feed the wildfowl with corn that was provided to visitors on site however with no visitors the birds reverted to foraging for food naturally which is not a bad thing. With this in mind, the Raystede Centre have now stopped offering corn and has insisted visitors do not bring picnics in case leftovers are fed to the animals.
With no picnics, this meant less litter to clear up and less litter being blown or thrown into pens for animals to dangerously consume. Seems like a win-win to me and something good to come from 2020!
Following the route through some wonderfully crazy and colourful wall art, I soon passed the goats, sheep and cheeky alpacas who were having a lay-in before heading through a dark small animal viewing tunnel which would excite many a young child!
Rabbit Avenue
It was then that I arrived at the rather luxurious rabbit pens! Now if I was a rabbit I would most definitely want to live here!
Each pen had a three-tiered mini-mansion (I think that’s a better description than a hutch!), tasty treats and water on tap, a concrete terrace opening out into a garden area complete with tunnels and space to do what rabbits do – no not those kind of things. I mean hop around and nibble on grass and burrow and explore! There is a story about each rabbit and this is explained on the fence to their abode although given the luxury I would have expected electric gates.
Many of the inhabitants had sadly lost their companion meaning that they were lonely and needed to be paired up again. That is a process that can take time and patience to introduce them to a new partner. Some people don’t have that patience for what is a high-maintenance animal and so…. they end up here at Raystede.
Mockingbirds & Turkey’s
From the lapin of luxury (that is one for the French speakers amongst us), I continued past some huts housing poultry and in particular chickens who were perhaps saved from death following a stint in one of those disgusting battery farms. I find it incredible they still exist in 2021 – the farms not chickens! All of the chickens at the Raystede Centre are available to be rehomed and do you know I would be so tempted if my situation allowed?
With Christmas approaching I did wonder if there were any turkeys on site and indeed there are although of course like the chickens they were locked away due to the restrictions.
The resident male who was indeed a turkey and not a Mockingbird was called Gregory Peck and this old boy was saved from a turkey meat farm some years back. Several females keep Gregory on his toes including Mistletoe who is a sprightly 14 years of age although I am not sure there is much kissing going on even at this time of year!
The lake was sadly closed off when I visited due to the Government Avian Influenza Protection Zone however I could see from a distance some of the waterfowl including ducks, geese, swans and coots. I later learned about another surprising issue that adds to the pressures on Raystede.
Many schools these days pay companies to provide them with eggs and an incubator to teach children about “the circle of life”. Sadly after hatching these birds of course grow and soon become too much to look after and where do they end up – at Raystede of course! Whether it’s chickens, Aylsbury ducks or the hilarious Indian Runner ducks these school projects while having the best intentions surely need to be reconsidered – how about teaching kids (and parents) the importance of not littering instead – just my opinion!
Ladies That Munch
Next up was an enormous field and also a paddock with horses of all shapes and sizes including Millie and Ben. In a field next to them were a handful of donkeys including a couple of very attractive ladies – Lizzy and Dot – they were good friends. They never left each other’s side in the field and when on a walk they somewhat begrudgingly, given the fresh roadside grass on offer, stopped for a photo with yours truly! Thanks, girls!
The dog exercise pens were empty as all of the dogs were either in their kennels or being walked by the devoted volunteers who are regularly seen taking the pooches for long walks in the beautiful countryside surrounding Raystede.
I did however notice the lovely inscribed dog tags hanging from the side of one of the exercise pens – I liked this, especially the reference to many retired greyhounds – a breed of dog I love and who are often just discarded after their racing days are over.
A World War II Shell
The tortoise and terrapin area was quiet given the fact winter is approaching so many of the occupants are now hibernating.
There is however an exception.
Churchill is a 104-year-old tortoise who sadly given his age has some respiratory problems. The good news though is that as a result, he does get to enjoy winter in a 30-degree luxury penthouse. I mean for someone who has survived both World Wars and who, the story goes, originated from London where he was rescued during World War II, it’s the least you can expect really!
I have this vision of him emerging from the rubble during the blitz…. if only Churchill could tell us the full story!
Retail Therapy
The only disappointment on my visit was the Visitor Information Centre. It doubles as a pet store which on my first impression I don’t think works that well. It simply did not inspire or have that feeling of welcoming me.
Upon entering, the staff member is pretty hidden away and sat down low in a dark area behind a desk and a COVID-inspired plastic screen. I think the other factor is that the pet store kind of envelops the visitor information kiosk – just my opinion and an area I think can be improved.
The pet store itself offers you the chance to purchase animal-friendly treats, beds, collars and at this time of year, amongst many items some rather natty Christmas attire for your four-legged friends.
In another building there was a fresh, friendly and welcoming charity shop selling well everything you would expect from a really good charity shop – clothes, books, DVDs, jewellery, cards and various other random items.
This is a nice addition and also a great way to raise additional funds.
Ways To Support the Raystede Centre
In addition to all that I have mentioned Raystede also runs an online adoption service, coordinates and manages an animal fostering service, runs Peaceways an animal crematorium, organises regular webinars and takes part in community events. They even have a veterinary team.
In 2020 Raystede cared for 1,154 vulnerable animals and re-homed 600 pets. With costs so high they, as well as other animal sanctuaries around the country, desperately need our help.
Ways in which Raystede encourage support is by donating, organising or attending fundraising events, becoming a friend of Raystede by donating a monthly sum, volunteering to help, shopping on site, joining their lottery, leaving a gift in your will or simply spreading the word. It would be great if you shared this blog on the links below.
Drop By… They Don’t All Peck…
As I mentioned at the beginning I think we will all remember 2020 (and 2021) as the year Covid-19 took over our lives. I think a large number of us will forever be grateful to our wildlife, our parks, our countryside and those animals we share it with. For many these moments got us through some of the worst times of our lives.
I certainly feel it’s time that I started to repay my love for nature that perhaps, pre covid, I had started to take for granted.
Visiting and writing about this exceptional animal welfare centre in the heart of the Sussex countryside is just a start and I hope raises awareness of the fantastic work and efforts made by all the staff and volunteers.
If you are ever in East Sussex why not pay the Raystede Centre and their menagerie of amazing animals a visit – they don’t bite although that Gregory – he may Peck!?
Contact Information
The Raystede Centre For Animal Welfare The Broyle Ringmer East Sussex United Kingdom BN8 5AJ
So last summer I moved out of my house. As I packed up the boxes I came across one that contained papers, photos and mementoes from way back in the 70s and 80s. Amongst the badges, marbles, trump cards and panini football stickers were three stories that I had written as a child. They were tales of a 1978 Summer Holiday to Yugoslavia, to Austria in 1980 and to Spain in 1981. I had not seen or read them in 40 years yet here I was writing online blogs in 2020.
Doesn’t life sometimes have a funny habit of throwing up coincidence?
Written In the Stars
Now I have always loved this saying, although I have only just found out via a quick Google who said it – the Greek philosopher Aristotle no less!
“Give me a child until he is seven and I will show you the man”.
Well, in this case, I was nine but to me, it’s remarkable looking back and recognising the signs at such an early age of my love for animals, music and sport. It also demonstrated my interest in adventure and road trips. It was without doubt during these moments, that I fell in love with travel and who knows…. maybe blogging too!
Over forty years later I have decided to replicate each of these blogs on my website. I guess I can now truly say that I have been blogging since 1978.
Please excuse the suspect grammar and spelling – “What more than usual” I hear you say! I have copied them word for word – I guess Google may penalise me for that but authenticity is everything is it not?
Those Were The Days
In my eyes a lot of great things happened in 1978 – Space Invaders was launched, Ipswich Town won the FA Cup, Kate Bush and the Bee Gees topped the charts, the Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy was first broadcast, Freddie Laker was knighted and the most beautiful women ever to hit the big screen, in my opinion, Olivia Newton-John made many a young boy (myself included) hot under the collar as Sandy in Grease.
When I wasn’t modelling the latest in designer school uniform pretending to be Paul Mariner on the school playing fields or even wishing I was Danny Zuko at Rydell High another great moment occurred in that hot summer of 1978… I wrote my first travel blog!
Life Has Always Been An Adventure
That first blog described my 1978 summer holiday driving from Caterham in Surrey through France, Belgium, Luxemburg, Germany, Austria, Italy and finally to what was then Yugoslavia.
I remember on one of these summer adventures we were about to set off from home and I had a massive tantrum. I was not allowed to take my “big dog” cuddly toy as it was too large.
I now know all too well that most trips start with a drama or a panic of some kind so I started young. Dad would have been driving a pretty cool white Rover 3500 saloon back then and with an Elddis caravan in tow and packed to the hilt (minus big dog) we were off!
Analysing these old papers I had the knack even at 9 years of age to top and tail and connect the story with humour – something I still try to do today. Pictured below are those neatly written blogs complete with precise margins and headlines underlined twice in red subtly reminding me of school days and for some reason that dreaded Sunday night homework when all I wanted to do was watch the Bionic Man.
The copy from these pages follows…. enjoy my first ever blog … my first travel memories… you could even say that this was my first ever travel platform – I was, after all, aged nine and three-quarters.
Summer Holiday 1978, Yugoslavia
The Ferrie
We trundled along onto the boat. As I went into the boat compartments I asked Dad and Mum if I could have a go on the fruit machines. The first go I did not win anything but the second go I won 20p.
After a rest, I had lunch, coke, pineapple juice, bread and honey. We went up on deck till it was time to get off the boat. “Welcome To Calais” was the greeting we got as we arrived in France.
Summing Up The First Day
It was a pleasant and exciting first day because as we stopped by the side of the road we found two rusty brown bombs with rings around the top and bottom.
We did not touch it in case we were blown sky-high. We are not sure where they actually came from or how they got there.
The Second Day
We got to Stuttgart in Germany after going through Belgium and Luxemburg. We stayed in a campsite after going past the Stuttgart stadium. In the campsite we stayed at a very muddy but nice campsite. I seem to remember an Alsatian dog being in the caravan next to us.
In the morning we washed our faces and we had our breakfast, then we had to get on our way to Austria.
The night we got into Stuttgart we saw quite a few trams going up and down the streets of Stuttgart, they were bright yellow and a thin black line going through the middle.
After Stuttgart we got to Austria in appalling conditions. As we were queuing to get into Austria, suddenly a large rainbow came out it stretched right over the hill. It was the first rainbow I had ever seen.
Petrol Coupons
We got petrol in Kufstein and about 30 yards on we came to the campsite and we stayed at Kufstein for three nights and on Sunday, we had to get dressed, washed, have our breakfast and get ready for going to Yugoslavia. We went through Mittersill and through a long tunnel I got a sticker just after we stopped for a bite. We finally got to Lienz and Dad took some pictures of the scenery in Austria and posted three letters.
We eventually arrived in Italy on Monday in terrible roadblocks. We were in Italy for an hour and then we got to Yugoslavia and Mum had to buy some petrol coupons in a shop just past the board er between Italy and Yugoslavia. We stopped at a petrol station to buy petrol with the coupons which Mum had recently bought.
Counting Strokes
On the same day we arrived at the campsite and almost immediately we went into the sea where I could swim underwater. The next day I caught a fish but it hopped away just as I got it out of the water.
Two days later I went under the water with my new orange mask. I saw an amazing sight nearly 500 fish in a shoal. Other small fish were swimming in the shoal as well. The day before we went to a restaurant in Rovinj.
The next day I swam breaststroke for the 7th time ever. I swam every day we were in Yugoslavia.
On the last day at Yugoslavia I got up early, I had an early swim before breakfast with Dad. Straight after breakfast, we took down the awning and we were off.
Hooked & Penniless
Just before we left we had a cool drink of lemonade while looking out over the sea we recaptured some of the many pleasant memories of Yugoslavia like when Dad and Craig spotted an old German shelter or the time when I lost my fishing hook in the sea. I waited for Dad to come but he never did so I lost my hook. One of my most vivid memories was when at about 700pm I heard singing and there was a dinner party going on it was very enjoyable. When I went to sleep that night I heard singing Yugoslavian style until I dropped off to sleep.
The journey back was just as enjoyable as going. We went through the same countries as before. Only one thing on the way back I did not like… I lost on the ever-present fruit machines.
THE END
Rupert Diggins
Contact Information
For further information on taking a trip to any part of France, Belgium, Luxemburg, Germany, Austria, Italy, Slovenia or Croatia either contact your local travel agent or a specialist tour operator but please make sure they are aged over nine and three quarters.
I hope you enjoyed my amusing 1978 Summer holiday tales. Let’s just pray those roadside bombs have been cleared!
These tales from Moscow chart the story of a last-minute dash to the Russian football World Cup semi-final in 2018. This is my story of how acting on impulse can often lead to a travel experience you will never forget. An impromptu city tour with strangers, to an overbooked hotel, and walking the streets of this great capital at 2 am. This amusing Russian story of frustration, perseverance, and timekeeping is one I look back on and smile as I spent the day cutting it fine in magical Moscow.
The start of any personal sporting adventure often isn’t as glamorous as the final destination. Sure enough, it was back in 2018 on a Sunday afternoon that I was mowing the lawn and deep in thought. England had just beaten Sweden in the quarter-finals of the football World Cup and not for the first time in my life I was dreaming of witnessing an England team lift one of sport’s greatest trophies.
By the time I had finished the last of the very non-Wembley-like stripes on my dandelion-riddled lawn, that feeling of missing out on England’s biggest game in 50 years had got too much. I fired up my laptop with little hope or expectation and I went on to the FIFA website to see if I could purchase a ticket for the semi-final in Moscow against Croatia. After a couple of aborted attempts, my screen remarkably showed some availability and I was suddenly in that position once again in my life. Do you think about the money, the time off work, the house repairs, the new kitchen or was it yet another case of JFDI – Just F’ing Do It!
Planning For Russia
Well, you can guess which of those won the day as otherwise, this blog would now be drawing to a close! In the blink of an eye, I had spent 285 USD on a match ticket to watch England play on Wednesday night in the Luzhniki Stadium in Moscow. I immediately doubted my decision but hey I was once again smashing the targets in my job…. I deserved it right!?
Of course, one small matter I had yet to fully consider was that I needed to get to Moscow….. I started looking at flights and of course, every football fan south of Berwick had already booked so the only sensibly priced option was to fly on Lot Polish Airlines with an overnight in Warsaw, Poland.
When it came to accommodation I decided not to book a hotel in Warsaw as I was only going to be there a few hours. In Moscow, I just booked the one night as then I could get my bearings. I also decided to stay for seven days as even if we lost we would have another game in St Petersburg so I could turn this random trip into a two-centre or stay in Moscow for the week if we won. I promptly found a cheap bed for the night in central Moscow quite close to the Kremlin and the main tourist sights.
These tales from Moscow are a crazy story… here is how it all unfolded.
One Night In Warsaw
I’d never been to Russia. I never thought I’d go to Russia. This, of course, meant I was super excited however I was hopelessly underprepared but spontaneity is my favourite behaviour so bring it on!
On a Tuesday evening with a rucksack containing a passport, a printed match ticket, a spare pair of pants, a toothbrush and the all-important fan ID number which replaced the need for a visa, I nervously headed to Heathrow for the 3.5-hour flight to Warsaw.
Landing in Warsaw at 10 pm, my mind and my body wanted to go into the city centre and explore but tomorrow was the biggest football match in my lifetime. I, therefore, decided to get my head down at the airport. However it’s never that easy, is it? After a couple of beers and a very non-Polish meal of a club sandwich, I walked around an eerily quiet terminal in search of somewhere to get some shut-eye before the red-eye to Red Square the next morning.
Far away from the centre of the terminal, I found a two-tiered coffee bar with the area upstairs closed off however I spied there was room to sneak through the barrier and up the stairs. Realising the importance of a kip I was delighted to find a comfy leather sofa and a sprinkling of cushions. It was here that I was able to grab a few hours before being woken by a none-too-impressed Polish cleaner who pulled the rug from under my feet…. well actually the cushion from under my head. Good morning to you too!
Panini’s & Prayers
Despite my rude awakening, I was so excited and nervous at the same time. I was booked on the 10:45 flight landing at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo Airport at 13:50 leaving me heaps of time to get to my hotel, freshen up, collect my official Fan Id pass and match ticket and then on to the stadium for a couple of pre-match looseners Russian style.
Well, that’s what I thought!
At 10 am it was announced the flight was delayed and at one stage I honestly thought it was going to be cancelled. I spent three hours pacing the airport, stopping for coffees and paninis that then turned into calming beers, Polish vodka chasers and prayers. I waited for news whilst staring endlessly out across an empty gate. To the relief of us all, a LOT Airlines aircraft finally pulled onto the stand and 200 Croatians, Russians and one rather concerned English fan sprinted on board. Before long we were finally on our way.
This delay completely threw my trip into disarray as suddenly I knew that getting into Moscow, finding my hotel and getting to the stadium would need to be seamless – in direct contrast to the trip so far!
Russian from Planes to Trains
I arrived at a hot and sticky Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport at 4 pm. With the match kicking off at 8 pm I rushed through the airport and headed for the train that would take me into the centre of the city and to Moscow Leningradsky station.
Thankfully the Cyrillic signs were supported by English subtitles so I bought a ticket and with a 45-minute train journey ahead of me I collapsed into my seat.
I caught my breath and then started to study a somewhat daunting subway map as well as try to establish the exact location of my hotel.
A European Union
Now opposite me on that train was a very well turned out elderly lady so in my finest English accent I said: “Excuse me…. do you happen to speak English”. To my surprise and relief, she did. I don’t remember her name so for the sake of this blog let’s call her Olga. I mean every Russian lady is called Olga….there was Olga Korbett and Olga….. hmm yes let’s just call her Olga!
It turns out she used to work at the European Parliament in Brussels so I had chosen a well-travelled lady to ask for directions. I showed her my map and where I needed to get to. After a worrying pause that should have raised the alarm bells, she called her husband and suggested that he pick us both up and run me to the hotel. Now given my predicament I gratefully accepted thinking this would prevent me from having to hurriedly negotiate and understand the Russian subway.
We waited outside the train station in Moscow and with my blood pressure levels rising I nervously checked my watch every minute given that it was now just over three hours to kick off. After what seemed like an eternity Olga finally spotted and hailed down her husband whom I was rather expecting, given Olga’s previously high-powered role in Europe, to pull up driving a blacked-out Mercedes but no. Olga’s hubby rocked up in what can only be described as a poor man’s version of an East German Trabant – I suddenly questioned this offer to help but hey there was no turning back.
The Mayhem of Marlboro’s & Moscow
From the back seat, I was awkwardly introduced to the non-speaking, chain-smoking hubby. Olga showed him the map to which he scratched his head, lit a fag and then fired up the car although to be fair if the car HAD been on fire I would not have been surprised.
Now I was hoping to be at the hotel in just a few minutes but this was central Moscow at 5 pm. The traffic was heavy, there was no air conditioning and bizarrely Olga morphed into an all too eager-to-please tour guide and promptly took great delight in pointing out some of Moscow’s most famous sites. Her husband followed her lead and then started slowing down and pulling over so that I could get a great view of The Bolshoi Ballet, Red Square and the Kremlin. Now whilst I was in awe of seeing these sites and naturally not wanting to appear rude, all I frigging wanted to do was get to my hotel, dump my bag, have a quick freshen up and get to the game.
After an impromptu, 40-minute city tour I was a nervous wreck in the back of this clapped-out Russian overheating eggbox with two people I had never met. Mind you as a positive I suppose I had just witnessed some of the most iconic sites in the world. Finally, we pulled to the side of the road and my spirits lifted only for them to be dashed again when Olga admitted she did not know where my accommodation was but it was somewhere near where we were and along the banks of the Moskva river.
I saw my opportunity to escape and insisted I jump out. I gratefully thanked Olga and the driver who was lighting up his sixth Marlboro of the tour and hopped out with iPhone in hand ready to google my way out of this mess. Not without further stress, I deduced my hotel was just a couple of hundred yards of power walking along the riverside and then bingo I saw an entrance behind an unkept garden to what was surely my budget hotel.
No Room At The Innski
I nervously but without delay walked in to find a queue of three English lads at reception. Much like my transport all of them were overheated, all were stressed and all talking in raised voices as it would appear their booked accommodation was no longer “booked”. Oh my god!
As the guys in front were politely asked to step to one side when emotions got too high I got to the desk only to be told the same. There was no room at the innski however they could offer me their delightful sister hotel on the edge of the city.
I thought about it for 0.2 milliseconds and declined. I promptly handed them my bag of clean pants and toothbrush for safekeeping and told them that in my absence they were to sort it out as I had a football match to attend. I stormed out in a strop.
On The Right Track
Finding myself once again alone and lost on the banks of the Moskva River alongside the Kremlin with a map, a smaller bag, and the game kicking off in 2 hours I needed to get my skates on especially as I needed to get my fan ID validated before getting to the stadium and guess what – this checkpoint was in another part of the city!
It was finally time to tackle the stunningly ornate Russian underground system – where was Olga to explain the history? No, forget that I needed to move! In record time – well it was always going to be as I had never done this before – I navigated my way to a high-security gazebo a mile from the stadium and queued alongside hundreds of frustrated fans wondering why there was the need for this document to then be able to collect your ticket.
Finally, with a match ticket in my hand, I was en route to the stadium, and with an hour to kick off I was even contemplating that Russian pre-match loosener but I thought it best just to get to my seat, relax and take in the atmosphere of a World Cup semi-final!
No Paparazzi
As I arrived at my allotted stadium entrance gate I was confronted by a Russian security official who could have come straight from the film Rocky IV. To my horror, I was told that no bags, even small ones, were allowed in the ground so mine containing my camera would need to be taken to the left luggage – on the other side of the stadium!
I sprinted, well I walked fast, through the crowds – queued once again – I then dropped my bag in what can only be described as an oversized Elddis caravan that was about as secure as an Albanian hotel safe. I then hot-footed back to the gate and finally made it into Moscow’s Luzhniki stadium and to my seat just 5 minutes before kick-off – I even missed the national anthems.
From the moment I finished mowing the lawn, to the delayed flight, to the mad dash through the city, and finally to the iconic Moscow Luzhniki stadium – I had, just like the lawn, cut it mighty fine!
Defeat But Not Downhearted
As the history books will tell you we lost the game. Yet again my hopes of witnessing England win the football World Cup were dashed despite a brilliant free-kick goal from England. As a result, a trip to St Petersburg beckoned.
Like cattle, we all herded out of the stadium and as if life could not get any worse I then remembered I did not have a room for the night. It was 11 pm and I was hungry. As the crowds dispersed I walked and walked until there were no crowds, just shady characters on dimly lit streets. I recall smiling to myself when it was midnight in Moscow and here I was with nowhere to stay…. some of us would freak out – I just thrive on this type of adventure and adversity.
My marker was to find the Kremlin but first I found a seedy little smoke-filled late-night bar selling baguettes and beer – this lifted my mood. With my body refuelled I found the Kremlin, I found the river and I found my little hotel.
Unfortunately, they had not found me a room so I spent a few hours sleeping in reception on a cracked brown leather sofa that could have come straight off the set of a 1980’s chat show.
Tales From Moscow – The End
As soon as the sun came up I left the hotel in disgust but with a day ahead to discover Moscow at my own pace.
These tales from Moscow had so far been an incredible experience and the kind of chaotic trip I look back on with so much laughter, despair yet the fondest of memories.
The next few days were some of the most amazing travelling days of my life.
It did not take me long to fall in love with Moscow and with Russia – like so many things in life we just didn’t get off to the best of starts.
Contact Information
For further information on taking a trip to any part of Russia either contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the Russian National Tourist Office.
Russia surprised me. I fell in love with the place wandering along the banks of the Moskva river on a glorious day in Moscow back in 2018 and I longed for more time to enjoy the spectacular city of St Petersburg. Russia has so much to offer the visitor – the ambience, the majesty, the sheer scale of the place, and the welcoming people who want to talk, smile, and share stories from culture and art to football and ice hockey.
Russia is the largest country in the world. The capital Moscow with its stunning subway stations as well as the Kremlin, St Basil Cathedral, and Red Square is what attracts many visitors. I however loved the parks and museums, the artist quarter, and the spectacular modern city skyline. Moscow is also great to combine with St Petersburg as a two-centre holiday as they are connected by a simple train system. Russia also has options to cruise rivers, take epic train journeys, and enjoy rural experiences around Lake Baikal and Yaroslavi and then there are pretty fishing villages like Teriberka on the coast.
For lovers of history, you can also discover the history of Russian Space Exploration or the fall of the Soviet Union.
Russia is a magnificent country that is beautiful, misunderstood, and begging to be explored and enjoyed – I certainly did!
The best tip I can offer anyone travelling around Russia is to do your research to be sure you know the plan. I would also always suggest you take a copy of your passport and details of your accommodation and travel arrangements as it’s likely at some stage you are going to be stopped by the authorities.
Flights into Russia are common with most arriving at Moscow’s three main airports – Domodedovo, Sheremetyevo, and Vnukovo. Regional airports are aplenty so there are plenty of options there.
Trains are a great way to travel across this vast country with the iconic Trans Siberian Express to Vladivostok or the Trans Mongolian through to Beijing the most well known. Locally trains are excellent including the very popular Sapsan route that runs from St Petersburg to Moscow.
The Metros are popular in some of the main cities and in Moscow, in particular, they are a work of art in themselves!
Also, popular river cruises and boat tours to take in St. Petersburg, Moscow, and the Golden Ring cities,
Top Things To See & Do
Hermitage Museum For art and culture, the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg is an enormous museum worth visiting.
Kizhi Island Located in Karelia, a region in Northwestern Russia this open-air museum is a great place to visit for culture and history with its Church of the Transfiguration of Our Savior, wooden houses, and other buildings of great interest.
Lake Baikal One of the clearest lakes in the world the Siberian Lake Baikal is a popular stop on the Trans-Siberian railway. It is the deepest and oldest lake on earth holding almost 20 percent of the world’s fresh water.
Moscow – The Kremlin You cannot visit Russia and in particular Moscow without seeing the walled Kremlin.. Home to the nation’s top governmental offices housing four 15th and 16th-century cathedrals as well as museums.
Moscow – Saint Basil’s Cathedral The iconic and colourful St. Basil’s Cathedral is one of Russia’s most visited tourist places and is designed to resemble a flaming bonfire.
Mount Elbrus Mount Elbrus in the heart of the Caucasus Mountain Range in Southern Russia is the highest summit on the continent.
St Sophia Cathedral, Novgorod Situated in Novgorod, Russia’s oldest city, Saint Sophia Cathedral is also the oldest cathedral in all of Russia.
Suzdal Russia has an area called the “Golden Ring,” consisting of ancient cities that the country has preserved as living museums and Suzdal is the most famous of them all.
Trans-Siberian Railway Part of one of the longest railway systems in the world, the iconic Trans-Siberian railway runs from Moscow to Vladivostok, a city near Russia’s border with both China and North Korea.
Valley of Geysers In the east of Russia on the Kamchatka Peninsula is one of Russia’s top natural sights – the incredible Valley of the Geysers.
Before stepping onto the Cathay Pacific flight to Hong Kong and onwards to Japan, I had two hopes—seeing England lift the Rugby World Cup and witnessing Mount Fuji in all her glory. Forget Bob Hope; he wasn’t on the list! My main wish was not for the bright lights of Tokyo or Kyoto’s old-world charm but for the natural beauty of Fuji. There are certain iconic sights you must witness in your lifetime, and the snow-capped volcanic peak of Fuji has, for me, always been one of them.
Now earlier on in my tour of Japan I had boarded the Shinkansen and had whistled past Fuji at a mere 320kms an hour however with the dense cloud that day, I sadly did not see her. I thought that may be my dream over until perhaps one day if I could, I would return to Japan.
Despite this previous miss, fate smiled as England reached the final of the Rugby World Cup, granting me a chance to return and fulfil my Fuji dream, specifically a trip to Fujikawaguchiko.
Getting There
Now the two-and-a-half-hour journey from Tokyo to Mount Fuji was to throw up a couple of surprises that I certainly was not expecting.
I needed to take the train from the marvellous Shinjuku station in Tokyo on the JR Cho line to Otsuki station. From there I was to then pick up the Fujikyu Railway Line to Fujikawaguchiko.
However, it was boarding the train in Otsuki that I got my first surprise. The train was a Thomas the Tank Engine train fully kitted out with plush Thomas seats and decor. Then each station en route to Fujikawaguchiko was named after a character from the popular TV series like Gordon or Percy. The inner kid in me loved this and I smiled for the entire journey as we trundled through magnificent lush mountain scenery.
The first night was booked in a place called Fuji Q Highland which turned out to be my second surprise. Instead of being that naturally beautiful location that I had dreamed about with views over Mount Fuji, it was a hideous, noisy amusement park.
I later discovered that it was built in 1968 so it was as old as me. Now not being too child-friendly I was none too impressed however I did appreciate that if I was a ten-year-old both the journey on Thomas and the amusement park at the end of the line would have been a little bit special.
That evening after sitting on the floor eating Ramen in an authentic, yet eerily quiet Japanese restaurant it was an early night before that final push, past the rollercoasters and ghost trains for the magnificent Mount Fuji.
The Five Lakes
Surrounding Mount Fuji are what are known as the Five Lakes. These are Yamanaka, Saiko, Shoji, Motosu and Kawaguchi.
When I was doing my research I found it hard to understand which area around Fuji had the best location and as a result, I found it confusing choosing where to stay for that balance of great views and access to the mountain plus having something going on in the evening.
The answer was to stay at the second largest of the lakes Kawaguchi and then to base myself in the town of Kawaguchiko or as it is better known FujuKawaguchiko.
Lake Kawaguchi is located on the border of the towns of Fujikawaguchiko and Minobu in southern Yamanashi Prefecture near Mount Fuji, Japan.
Fujikawaguchiko
I chose to stay in a very simple basic old hotel which effectively provided a bed, a wonderfully old-fashioned reception and lounge and a location on the lake side and a short 5-minute stroll into the town of FujiKawaguchiko.
The town is built on the eastern side of the lake and hosts a variety of shops selling local gifts and produce as well as some tacky souvenirs. A small selection of restaurants offer a choice of local dishes like Ramen and noodles. There is also a small sports bar providing Westerners with a burger or fish and chips if you need that break from the ramen! There is also a Lawson’s minimart for daily supplies.
After a little time understanding the best way to get about and to view the area it became apparent that there was a colour-coded bus network that offered different routes around the five lakes. I purchased a two-day pass allowing me to explore at my heart’s content.
I have to say this was superb as all around the lakes are numbered stops and with the excellent map available you can decide when and where to jump off.
There are heaps of different attractions all around the lake from museums to shops, to natural attractions, waterfalls and even a bat cave complete with a 1960’s Batman gallery. I loved it!
Fuji Panoramic Ropeway
The Mount Fuji Panoramic Ropewayis a cable car which provides wonderful views of Fuji (on a clear day).
At the top, there are a couple of small shops and a cafe as well as various photo opportunities to catch Mount Fuji through the clouds.
There are also some children’s attractions based around a bizarre story of a rabbit and a raccoon. If you get a moment look it up…. a very odd children’s story and one that will probably lead to nightmares for both you and the kids!
I love this image I took while at the top of the old-fashioned guard who bows every time the cable car arrives and departs at the top. So love these little gestures that the Japanese make – just wonderful.
Pleasure Boat Cruise
I never expected there to be so much to do in this area.
Another fun activity is to enjoy a pleasure boat cruise from the lakeside. It’s very slow but pleasurable with open deck views of the incredible scenery.
Another lake-based activity is hiring a swan peddle boat and if you pedal far enough you can catch that first glimpse of Fuji.
Chureito Pagoda
When I realised I was going to be staying in Fujikawaguchiko I researched the best place to view Mount Fuji. All the reports suggested I take a very early morning trip up to a viewing point at the Chureito Pagoda which is part of the Arakurayama Sengen Shrine.
With a clear blue sky expected I set my alarm, got up bleary-eyed and jumped in my pre-booked taxi.
I was dropped at the base of some steps in the pitch dark. I paid the taxi driver and started the 20-minute climb of about 400 steps to the top.
As I did the sun was just starting to come through and sure enough three-quarters of the way up I turned around to see the majestic sight of Mount Fuji – it was one of my favourite travel moments as suddenly this iconic Japanese volcano was before me.
I rushed up the remaining steps where I heard voices and sure enough, there were about 20 individuals and cameramen all jostling for position to take a photo of Fuji with the stunningly beautiful red Chureito Pagoda in the foreground. Wow, what a sight!
After 30 minutes of photos and taking in the view I walked back down the road that takes you into the Fujikawaguchiko suburbs and then to a train station with amazing fuji views and from here I jumped on board for the short trip back to Fuji station.
It was an awesome experience viewing Mount Fuji from the best possible location and on the most gorgeous day. A memory that will live with me forever!
Fujikawaguchiko Town
The more time I spent wandering around the modest and peaceful town the more I fell in love with this little corner of Japan.
Like anywhere I guess, the more you walked and explored, the more you discovered.
I even came across a Sake distillery that offered tours and tastings. Now Fujikawaguchiko was fabulous but I wanted to remember it so declined the opportunity.
Arigato Mount Fuji
I loved Fuji Kawaguchiko and would highly recommend a couple of nights here on any tour of Japan.
My biggest tip is whatever you do make sure you take a two-day bus pass as it is the best thing you can do to explore the area and get the most out of your stay here.
If you are planning a trip to Fujikawaguchiko and want to pre-book some excursions here are three of the very best.
Contact Information
For further information on taking a trip to any part of Japan or Asia either contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the Japan Tourist Office.
