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Vancouver – What’s the Big Deal?

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The Real Canada

All of Canada but in this case, the Canadian city of Vancouver holds very special memories for me. It was back in 1986 when I attended the Christmas party of the little domestic airline, Air UK and I won the raffle. It’s the only time even to this day that I have ever won a raffle – two tickets anywhere in the world on the Canadian Pacific Airlines network was quite a prize back in those days.

Six months later I and a friend headed off to Hawaii for a two-week lads tour of America’s 50th state however en route we stopped off for a couple of days in Vancouver. I always remember wandering around this stunning city all the time thinking how “Canadian” it was….. funny that, given we were in Canada. I recall the little water taxis, the cool hip bars, Granville Island, the friendly people, and maple syrup.

Thirty years later but with a fading memory of that amazing holiday I am still telling people how much I loved Vancouver and to this day I have always promised myself I would return – the lure of the nature and mountains of British Colombia is strong and I have always wanted to hire a motor home and travel about and to experience the famous Rocky Mountaineer.

Someone who has been more recently to this part of North America than me is Caroline Joyner from the Travel Counsellors. Here she shares her fabulous experiences as a guest of Tourism Vancouver.

Tourism Vancouver

Last year I was lucky enough to visit Canada as a guest of Tourism Vancouver. We packed in so many incredible sights, experiences, hotels and food it is hard to narrow them down but here are some of my top picks.

Vancouver rates as one of the world’s top cities on just about every count. A vibrant, cosmopolitan metropolis with diverse and distinct neighbourhoods, it is framed by spectacular scenery. Mountains, forests and blue sparkling waters characterise a stay in Vancouver not to mention the incredible wildlife opportunities.  The city is also foodie heaven – from food trucks to gourmet restaurants with every possible cuisine showcased.

Here are a few reasons to put Vancouver on your bucket list!

Stanley Park

A quintessential city sanctuary, Stanley Park offers a window to some of Vancouver’s best scenery where the mountains meet the ocean and is backed by a perfect cityscape.  A mere 5-minute cycle into the park and you can also be deep in the temperate rainforest which fills its interior, lush evergreen forest with 150,000 trees a lake and lots of wildlife. There are 27km of trails around the park as well as an open-air swimming pool, beaches, restaurants, outdoor theatre, gardens, lakes, horse and cart rides and a miniature train.

The Vancouver totem poles which give a great introduction to Canada’s First Nations culture should also be on your agenda. Cycling around the sea wall with a guide brought the city and its history to life for me.

Flyover Canada

Right next to the cruise ship terminal, this flight simulator 4D experience is not something I would have put at the top of my list but it is impressive. After strapping yourself into to airline-style seats, you are suspended before a 20-metre spherical screen. You then fly, feet dangling, over Canada’s most awe-inspiring scenery and experiences.

Watch the Rocky mountaineer snake its way through the mountains, and fly over snow-capped peaks, the prairies, rainforests, dazzling cityscapes,  and coastlines. A collective “gasp” can be heard from the passengers as we fly over the edge of a cliff, all instinctively pulling our legs in and then we even feel the sea spray on our faces. This was no ordinary flight simulator.

Gastown Foodie Tours

I freely admit to being no foodie, but the food in Vancouver is something to behold. Named by Conde Nast as one of the world’s top food cities, beyond the vast array of cafes and restaurants on offer there is a sort of food appreciation vibe to the streets. Speak to any local and they will gush about their favourite eating haunts. Vancouver is a huge fusion of cultures and thus it seems like almost every type of food on the planet is here in some form – from food trucks to high-end fine dining and everything in between.

Gastown is Vancouver’s most historic neighbourhood as well as housing its most trendy dining spots. At the centre of its cobbled streets and Victorian architecture lies the famous steam clock which whistles every 15 minutes amusing the crowd which gathers there.

A foodie tour of Gastown involves a wander with a local guide who brings the area’s history to life. Rejuvenated derelict buildings have been converted to trendy dwellings, at the same time there are some innovative homeless projects and social housing.

After dark, the lamp-lit streets take on a slightly edgier but vibrant feel. You then get to sample several restaurants, having a course in each. Don’t miss the typical Canadian foods such as Poutine (chips, cheese and gravy type mix) and Vancouver specialities such as Japanese hot dogs, sushi rolls and dim sum.

Grouse Mountain

Just a 20-minute drive from the city lies the leafy suburb of North Vancouver, where tall trees tower over every house and lakes & mountains are in every vista. Grouse Mountain, the tallest peak in the area, is home to a veritable mountaintop playground in both summer and winter months. We ascend on the Skyride Gondola to 1250m and survey the incredible views. A low mist hangs over the miles of forest stretching as far as the eye can see and the city skyline and harbour sparkles in the distance.

However there is a lot more than views at the top of this peak, hike the Grouse Grind trail or take a casual walk around the top, visit the wildlife refuge and meet the rescued bears, watch the lumberjack show, ogle the views from Observatory restaurant, take the chair lift to the peak, fly above the trees on the mountain zip lines or take in a show at the Theatre in the Sky. In winter you can ski, snowshoe snowboard, ice skate and sledge and there is also a winter lights trail.

Grouse Mountain’s resident bears Grinder and Coola are 2 orphaned grizzly bears, rescued as cubs and now living life to the full in their 5.5-acre habitat. Breakfast with the Bears involves having your breakfast in a Yurt with a viewing platform looking right over the bears stomping ground and hearing all about their history, life and different personalities whilst you watch their morning feed.

Top Tip: Get up to the top before the crowds with the Breakfast with the Bears experience. There is so much to do at the top so schedule in as much time as you can up there. Take the free shuttle from Canada Place which runs between downtown Capilano- Grouse Mountain during the summer months.

Harbour Seaplane

What better way to see Vancouver’s picturesque harbour than from the air? Bob along the water then soar above the skyline before heading over to Vancouver Island. The tops of the skyscrapers are soon replaced by miles of glistening waters, islands, inlets, forests and deliciously wild beaches.

From above you can appreciate Vancouver and Vancouver Island for its raw beauty. Seaplanes offer scenic flights as well as connecting the main hubs of the area.

Granville Island

Firstly it is not an island, secondly, it is not just for tourists as people often assume. Back in the 1900s, Granville Island was home to factories and sawmills but after regeneration, it’s now a food lovers paradise, with a famous covered market packed with fresh local produce, baked goods, local artisan crafts and a food court. Vancouver’s foodie locals shop here and it’s also now one of the important cultural districts with theatres, art galleries, and workshops. It is located south of the city in False Creek, an inlet, and as such there are also some great watersports opportunities here such as Sea Vancouver which offers the opportunity of whizzing through the Burrard inlet at 55mph in one of their jet boats.

You can reach Granville via bus, car/bike or via the cute little tug ferries (Aqua bus) which run from Yaletown every few minutes.

Top Tip: The False Creek ferry has lots of interesting stops up and down the inlet and is worth a trip in itself for the great views of downtown and the harbour.

Gourmet Cooking Class

Granville is home to some of Vancouver’s top dining spots such as Edible Canada, the Sandbar Seafood Restaurant and the Blue Hat Bistro where you can do a gourmet cooking class run by the Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts (PICA). As I said, I am no foodie, and in particular not a fan of seafood at all so it was a somewhat difficult moment for me when we arrived at PICA and discovered that we would be making Moules Mariniere!

The PICA kitchens are specially set up to enable each pair to have a workstation and with some excellent demonstrations, I am proud to report I did succeed in my cookery endeavour. The bonus is that you get to eat what you have made in the beautiful setting of the Red Hat Bistro next door.

Capilano Suspension Bridge Park

Not far from Grouse Mountain is perhaps Vancouver’s most popular and infamous attraction, the Capilano Suspension Bridge. The original 1880s bridge that crosses the Capilano River was made of hemp rope and cedar planks, today’s 450ft bridge is suspended using steel cables strong enough to hand a 747 on, and its dramatic canyon views are not for the faint-hearted.

The bridge is now the centrepiece of a kind of outdoor amusement park. Walk the Cliffwalk, a 300ft walkway attached to the cliffs of the canyon and suspended above the river, or take the Treetops trail for a birds-eye view of the rainforest. The Capilano park is 20 minutes from the city and can be reached by car or a free shuttle from downtown.

Top Tip: Being one of Vancouver’s most popular attractions the bridge gets crowded, head there for the opening time to get the most out of your visit.

Not Forgetting

Vancouver has 9 beaches, the best being Kitsilano and the most convenient being English Harbour.

The Vancouver Lookout is an observation deck to get your bearings in the city.

The Vancouver Aquarium is one of the best I have been to. It is focused on sustainability and conservation and is at the forefront of plastics research.

Vancouver has many great museums, including the highly regarded Museum of Anthropology.

Vancouver Island warrants another article in itself – pristine wilderness and beaches, historical Victoria harbour, world-famous Butchart Gardens, too cool surf town Tofino, whale watching and black bear spotting. Head to one of the more rural lodges to have the best chance of seeing Grizzlies – if your wallet allows Knights Inlet Lodge is a great splurge.

Contact Information

With thanks to Caroline Joyner from the Travel Counsellors for this blog. If you are interested in a holiday to Canada or any part of North America please get in touch with her on the details below.

T: 07801 591350
E: caroline.joyner@travelcounsellors.com

Scream For Me Sarajevo

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Sarajevo Travel News
Sarajevo Travel News
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Memories from Bosnia

On two occasions back in early 2000 I visited Bosnia & Herzegovina – once for work, to Sarajevo, and then the other for a week ski holiday over New Year to Jahorina, one of the two major ski mountain resorts over Sarajevo.

People still to this day turn their noses up when I tell them, just like they used to turn their noses up in 1999 when I said I was going to Croatia.

The Bosnian war is now over a quarter of a century ago.

There is so much I remember about Sarajevo – a city that is both uplifting but with the echos of war never far. There are so many stories of those desperate times yet somehow Sarajevo gets under your skin as a place of profound beauty and one that grabs you and gives you hope that even in the darkest of times, there is light.

On my business trip, I purposely stayed in the Holiday Inn on what was known as sniper alley. This was the hotel where the journalists reporting on the siege of the city stayed and I recall sitting in the window of my basic hotel room looking out and imagining the horror of those days when civilians, in the sights of snipers some just 200 yards away, took their lives in their own hands running from point to point to get food or to pass on messages to loved ones.

The story, above all others, that resonates with me to this day, is the one about the shelling of the National Library on August 25th and 26th 1992. In that moment over 3 million books and countless rare artefacts were destroyed. Without a doubt, a huge part of the country’s cultural identity was lost in those moments. Thankfully today that beautiful building has been restored but of course, so much was lost and with it, just memories remain.

Today we are facing our own “invisible” war with so many of us having sleepless nights as we battle the effects of Covid in our lives.

The other night I woke in the early hours and watched a powerful documentary on BBC I Player about a concert that took place in Sarajevo at the height of the Bosnian war back in 1994. It was titled “Scream For Me Sarajevo”.

It’s a remarkable story of members of the rock band Skunkworks led by Bruce Dickinson (of Iron Maiden fame). It charts the story of how the initial idea was hatched, their journey from Split in Croatia to Sarajevo under cover of darkness in the back of a truck and relives stories from the people who organised it and from several individuals who attended.

“Scream for Me Sarajevo” also follows the band’s return 20 years later where they met some of those people who, for a brief period during this bloody war, were offered hope and enabled them to see that glimmer of light in the darkness.

The music is amazing but don’t think that you need to be a heavy rock fan to appreciate it. The “Scream For Me Sarajevo” story is staggering, powerful, extremely sad, emotional and yet uplifting at the same time….I guess that kind of sums up Sarajevo in Bosnia and Herzegovina for me.

Welcome to Never Normal Brighton

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Brighton United Kingdom Travel News
Brighton United Kingdom Travel News
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Designate to The Rescue

Now I know I shouldn’t as it doesn’t matter but I am someone who occasionally gets a little agitated in a social media kind of way by the use of those incredibly annoying marketing buzzwords. In 2020 many got on my socially distanced tits.

By June the term “new normal” was starting to grate. In August I was getting rattled by a swathe of “unprecedented times” and by the end of the year the number of “agile” businesses who announced they had been forced to “pivot” had forced me straight into a self-imposed lockdown.

With the BBC ludicrously deciding to welcome in the New Year in this New Normal with Alicia Keys New York it was pretty clear that whilst 2021 was always going to be new it was never going to be normal.

Just days into 2021 I needed my spirits raised and it came this week as I watched an interview on Travelmole and listened to the back story about a marketing campaign undertaken by Brighton-based brand and creative agency Designate for Visit Brighton.

Home From Home

Titled “Never Normal” it gets under the skin of Brighton and perfectly encapsulates a city that has never been normal. As the team at Designate has so expertly recognised this is exactly why it is so special. It’s not always because of its quintessential beach, the pier, the Brighton rock or the fish n chips. It’s so much about those pretty little graffiti-strewn side streets, the Bohemian ambience, the street music, the carefree fashion, its dark and dingy clubs and above all its unique and creative people who have always been so open-minded and welcoming wherever you are from and whatever your views.

Pretty much all my life I have lived within a skimming stone or two of Brighton. As lads, we jumped on the train for a Saturday night pub crawl around the North Laines and those wonderfully cool backstreet bars. In those late 80s days, we ended up at the glitzy soulless clubs like the Pink Coconut or the Event and then as we moved into the 90s and as our tastes in both venue, fashion and music changed, it was over to those darker cooler establishments like the Zap or the Gloucester.

Today wherever you travel to, you are pulled towards the well-known tourist attractions, the family entertainments to shut the kids up for an hour or the familiar restaurant names and bars to check in on Instagram in the hope of attracting half a dozen likes from people who have checked in at the same restaurant with the same ambience, eating the same food but in another corner of the country.

Attitude & Edge

The truth is Brighton has always been naughty, it always had attitude and an edge and it has never been about material things…. people tend not to brag in Brighton… unless you were Chris Eubank back in the day driving around the narrow streets in an American truck the size of a leisure centre. Then again even that was bizarre, so why the hell not?

A few times each year I head down to Brighton like I did back in those days of white socks, pencil leather ties and Depeche Mode. Back then after a handful of diamond whites, it was in the hope of catching the eye of a pretty girl that attracted me. Today it’s to savour good times, share memories with old friends and revel in the ambience of a city that should be celebrated.

Brighton is different and I love how this bold campaign has been constructed. I applaud the team at Designate for this very different approach that highlights the essence and the magic of Brighton which is something you cannot just see or touch!

The city has always been on my doorstep and has given me so many memories. This campaign has certainly inspired me to visit again and I for one can’t wait to meet, certainly not”touch base”, with friends in a buzzy little independent bar, drinking craft beer while recounting stories of old in what has always been, and always will be, the wonderfully “Never Normal” Brighton.

Contact

Designate is an independent creative agency based in Brighton in the United Kingdom and is the clever people behind the Visit Brighton Never Normal campaign.

T: 01273 404 040
W: www.designate.com

Explore South Africa

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South Africa Travel Blog Impala
South Africa Travel Blog Impala
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Explore South Africa

As some of you readers of my blog will know I do love a major sporting occasion whether it’s football in Moscow, rugby in Japan or baseball in Miami. I was hoping that in 2021 I was going to be able to explore South Africa as part of a British and Irish Lions Tour however the Covid 19 restrictions for foreign visitors curtailed that idea.

In more positive news I was provided with an interesting blog on South Africa which I have now updated to exclude the rugby bits and to focus on the reasons why we should all visit the amazing country of South Africa at least once in our lifetimes!

An Unbeatable Experience

As a holiday destination, this country has more highlights than could ever be included in a stand-alone trip, often resulting in visitors returning again and again. South Africa also carries a reputation as a real “foodie paradise” and we have to agree, it is a challenge to find a bad meal in a destination that so proudly offers tantalising flavours no matter the dish!

Whether your trip involves learning about the history of Nelson Mandela, exploring the vibrant city of Cape Town, wine-tasting in the Cape Winelands, strolls along beautiful sandy shores or seeking out the Big Five on safari, South Africa is sure to deliver an unbeatable holiday with memories to last a lifetime.

Cape Town

Strikingly beautiful, Cape Town has struck a balance between trendy modern and charming old-world elegance. Glamorous hotels, world-class dining and stunning beaches merge perfectly with buzzing student suburbs and vibrant nightlife. Malay and African heritage is evident in the cuisine, traditions and entertainment while the impressive architecture reveals a strong Dutch, German and English flavour and style. Fascinating contemporary art is proudly displayed in galleries and modern boutique hotels across the city, and quirky wine bars and brandy-tasting lounges are in abundance here.

A short boat cruise to Robben Island, approximately seven km from Cape Town harbour will take you to the island to explore the prison cell where South Africa’s most beloved legend, Nelson Mandela spent 27 years of hard labour. As you stand and soak in the raw history, you get a sense of hopelessness and it is difficult to imagine how anyone could rise above the horror of incarceration to become one of the most iconic and compassionate leaders of our era.

Towering over the city, Table Mountain awaits exploration. You can access the outstanding views at the top by a cable car which provides panoramic views over the “Mother City” or trek up the mountain if you are feeling adventurous! Other attractions in Cape Town include the Cultural History Museum, the Castle of Good Hope and the world-renowned Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens. Greenmarket Square’s local crafts markets and the Bo-Kaap’s colourful Cape Malay buildings add a sense of culture and authenticity to your trip, and Long Street’s lively restaurants, bars and clubs come alive after dark. Don’t forget to take a wander around the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, a working harbour and hub of entertainment and shopping opportunities.

The Garden Route and Kwa-Zulu Natal

Many people visiting the country and looking to explore South Africa will opt for the Garden Route.

Not a garden in the true sense of the word, the Garden Route is more in the way of a Garden of Eden or an area of natural wilderness with endless expanses of untamed forest and pristine beaches. Imposing mountains line the roads and waterfalls cascade from dramatic cliffs into blue-green seas below. Lush green hills slope down to rugged coastlines shaped by the thundering sea. This dramatic stretch of the journey boasts Storms River, which is located within the Tsitsikamma National Park, and bustling resort towns just waiting to be explored are placed amidst the picturesque landscape.

Plettenberg Bay is well known for its beautiful sandy beaches and the town of Wilderness, hospitality. The vibrant town of Knysna is located on a massive lagoon, the entrance to which is guarded by the iconic Knysna Heads. Too many outdoor activities to name allow everyone to explore the peaceful trails and country tracks which wind through towering trees and shaded glades, across sun-splashed shores and along secret paths. Scenic ocean and lagoon boat trips, wildlife sanctuaries focussed on conservation and pretty nature reserves bursting with colour add to the attraction of the Garden Route.

South Africa’s most ecologically diverse province, KwaZulu-Natal is home to two vast, diverse and very alluring UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the lush subtropical Indian Ocean coastline protected within iSimangaliso Wetland Park and the dramatic 3,000-plus metre peaks of the hiker-friendly Drakensberg Mountains.

Other attractions include the seaside city of Durban, the countless smaller beach resorts that sit on either side, the highly rated Big Five game-viewing reserves such as Hluhluwe-Imfolozi and Phinda Game Reserves, and a wealth of historical and cultural sites associated with the Zulu nation who are very proud of their heritage and culture.

The province of Kwa-Zulu Natal offers 82 battlefields, museums, old fortifications and places of remembrance. It holds the largest concentration of significant Battles and war-related sites anywhere in South Africa. This is where the Early Zulu Battles, the Anglo-Zulu War 1879, the Rebellion of Langalibelele 1873, the South African Anglo-Boer War 1899 – 1902, the Zulu Civil War 1883-1888, the Transvaal War of Independence 1880-1881, the Voortrekker – Zulu Wars and the Bhambatha Rebellion all took place.

Johannesburg

South Africa’s economic hub, bursts at the seams with a wealth of art, history and culture. Johannesburg is often avoided by many tourists due to its reputation in the media for crime-related violence, however, a fusion of chic sophistication and rustic, inner-city vibe born of Africa’s finest creative minds awaits to be explored and this safely achieved with a reliable and trusted guide provided by Kitenge Africa Travel.

Here, modern African art meets designer trendiness and the results are rewarding! From the inner city walking tours, street art and graffiti, to the re-invented university suburbs, the combination exposes a vibrant urban life. Braamfontein’s Constitution Hill, art galleries and incredible restaurants designed for foodies are examples of this regeneration. It is here the continent can express itself and the results are quirky, a little offbeat and captivating.

Upmarket Sandton, Rosebank and Melrose is a shopping paradise, offering restaurants, and activities easily located beside leafy suburbs. Soweto, once home to South Africa’s most well-loved legend Nelson Mandela, is an essential part of any visit to Johannesburg. The home of Nelson Mandela, the Hector Pieterson Museum and Regina Mundi Cathedral are all an important part of the historical appeal of any Soweto visit, and the importance of South Africa’s turbulent past and hard-won democracy is easily perceptible.

South Africa’s Game Reserves

Sabi Sands is probably the most famous private game reserve when looking to explore South Africa. It shares an unfenced border with Kruger National Park, allowing wildlife to come and go freely between the two. However, with no day visitors and no self-drive safaris allowed, it offers a much more exclusive experience than Kruger itself. Sabi Sands is comprised of 160,000 acres of untamed bush and is home to all of the Big Five. The Sabi sands also offer frequent leopard and wild dog sightings.

Eastern Cape Game Reserves are perfect for first-time visitors to South Africa. A safari can easily be added to a holiday for families or those not wishing to take malaria tablets. Many of the reserves and parks of the Eastern Cape are home to the Big Five; which is made up of the lion, elephant, rhinoceros, buffalo, and leopard. A 2-3 night is an ideal time to safari here. If you are planning to drive the Garden Route, it combines well to fly into Cape Town, and out of Port Elizabeth via Johannesburg back home (or vice versa). Alternatively, if you are not driving then domestic flights can easily be arranged into P.E. for you from either Cape Town or Johannesburg.

Tying the Knot

Welgevonden Game Reserve is malaria-free and just an easy 2.5-hour drive or 45-minute flight from Johannesburg, making it a unique means of escaping the hustle and bustle of the city. This reserve is home to over 50 different mammals including the Big 5. The reserve also has kudu, giraffe, zebra, warthog, cheetah, brown hyena, honey badger and close to 300 bird species. At the same time, the restricted number of vehicles allowed in the park and the fact that the animals have never been hunted means that they remain largely unphased by human proximity, allowing for particularly close and personal encounters.

Madikwe Game Reserve is currently the fifth largest game reserve and is also one of the lesser-known parks in South Africa. This makes it a hidden- gem as it is regarded as one of the best conservation areas in Africa and offers the Big 5 in a 680 km2 park (750 km2 including newly incorporated privately owned land). The park offers several luxurious lodges as well as community lodges in a malaria-free zone. The Big 5 is represented in the park and you are likely to spot a lion, leopard, elephant, rhino or buffalo. During your visit, you will also have the rare privilege of possibly seeing the highly endangered African wild dog.

Contact Information

If you are looking to explore South Africa on the continent of Africa either contact your local travel agent, a specialist tour operator or the South African Tourist Office.

Bolivia – The Zebras of La Paz

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Zebras of La Paz, Bolivia
Zebras of La Paz, Bolivia
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The Zebras Of La Paz, Bolivia

Now we have all been known to do a bit of dressing up ….. oh what do you mean you haven’t? Best start this intro again.

When it comes to travel blogs on South American countries the last thing I expected to receive was an article about the good folk of Bolivia dressing up as the Zebras of La Paz to help people cross the road in the highest capital city in the world – however here we have it and I think it’s blooming great!

Serial blogger Caroline Joyner from The Travel Counsellors completes her blog trilogy on Bolivia with this remarkable story of the good this group of people are doing in one of the busiest, poorest and craziest cities in South America.

Enjoy this story of the Zebras of La Paz.

Turning Traffic Chaos Into A Positive

Squinting in the high-altitude sunshine of downtown La Paz, Bolivia, my lungs struggle and all my senses are assaulted at once.  Businessmen whizz past homeless people begging, colourfully dressed Cholitas sell their wares from stands, shoeshine boys wait hopefully on every corner, and the noise of omnipresent beeping is almost deafening. Just for a moment, I think I spot a zebra amidst the chaos. Not a real zebra you understand, but someone dressed up in the full furry zebra suit.

Sure enough, there are a group of people dressed as zebras in the middle of the manic El Prado thoroughfare. Some are dancing to music blaring from a speaker, some are talking to pedestrians and one seemingly suicidal zebra is in the middle of a road with a lollipop guiding people across the street.

No Ordinary Zebras of La Paz

These are no ordinary zebras and this is no ordinary initiative. In a city which hosted over 9000 traffic accidents in 2015, crossing the road here really is a case of taking your life in your hands. The roads are choked with vehicles vying for every inch of space. Traffic signs are considered a guide, accident statistics deadly and crossing the road an art form.

It is the city’s faded zebra crossings which inspired one of Latin America’s most forward-thinking urban groups. The Cebras De La Paz was formed in 2001 and initially aimed at educating both pedestrians and drivers, encouraging them both to obey traffic signs. Starting with just 24 zebras giving out leaflets, the “Educadores Urbanos Cebras” (Zebra Urban Educators), has now grown to a group of 400 in La Paz and 3 other Bolivian cities.

The Best Foot Forward

As a non-aggressive form of traffic intervention, the Zebras of la Paz can often be seen ticking off disobedient drivers, but it is their absolute positivity which makes them such a loved part of the city’s commuting force. Waving, stopping to hug children, high-fiving pedestrians: their jollity is endless.

“The role we have is to change and improve how everyone is thinking”, enthuses Christian, a zebra who bounces around La Paz’s busiest intersections from 7 am to 11 am every day. “You need to see the positive side of everything and it’s up to us to put our best foot forward”.

The Zebras Of Peace

Underneath the stripey suits though, this is about more than road safety. Each zebra is selected from organisations that work with at-risk youths. Young people are given the chance to form friendships, learn, and take on responsibility. Many of them were previously on their way down less positive paths such as drug addiction or youth offending. 

After 2 months of training in road safety, citizenship and “the spirit of being a zebra”,  they are let loose on the streets spreading their unmitigated positivity and desire to help. Each zebra is paid a small stipend, but perhaps worth more is the access to training courses and classes they earn aimed at improving their opportunities. Zebras can now be found leading education programmes in schools on topics such as bullying and conservation.

Las Zebras de La Paz conveniently translates as “The Zebras of peace”, and now visitors to one of Latin America’s least peaceful cities can join them in spreading peace and love via the Cebra Por Un Dia scheme.

Contact Information

With thanks to Caroline Joyner from the Travel Counsellors for this blog. If you are interested in a holiday to Bolivia or any part of South America please get in touch with her on the details below.

Why not check out Caroline’s other Bolivia blogs – High Altitude Tips and Discover 8 Unmissable Highlights of Bolivia?

T: 07801 591350
E: caroline.joyner@travelcounsellors.com

High Altitude Tips – Bolivia

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Breathless in Bolivia High Altitude Tips
Breathless in Bolivia High Altitude Tips
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High Altitude Tips – Bolivia

Whether it is the French or Austrian Alps for skiing, the magnificent Mount Fuji in Japan, the rugged peaks of Corsica, or closer to home Ben Nevis on the western coast of Scotland I have always loved the mountains. The Andes of Bolivia is one such mountain range that has so far managed to elude me but rest assured it will be conquered! Someone who has managed to enjoy them is Caroline Joyner from the Travel Counsellors. There was however an issue that she had to overcome – altitude sickness. Here she gives her advice and high-altitude tips on how best to alleviate the problem.

There is no doubt that much of the Andes of South America will leave you breathless but not just by way of its beauty.

Survival Tips

It was a bumpy landing at 6.30 am at the world’s highest international airport and my wonderful Bolivian agent was waiting to meet me. “Buenos Dias y Bienvenido a La Paz” he said merrily. I, on the other hand, wasn’t feeling particularly merry after a night flight. In my Product Manager role, I was tasked with 2 weeks of research which would take me to do some of Bolivia’s highlights,  from its sprawling altitude Capital to the scenic shores of the world’s highest navigable lake, to the low-lying tropical cloud forest.

Landing at El Alto airport in La Paz is a somewhat interesting experience. To start with, the descent is noticeably short. One minute the tips of mountains are all around you and the next you are touching down. High altitude airports need longer runways and El Alto’s is 4km long. This is apparently because the lower pressure at a higher altitude means less air resistance to stop. We landed at what seemed an incredibly high speed and it took a long time to slow down.

So there I was at 4060m and my sea-level-living body was not happy.

Who Is Most Affected?

You don’t need to be climbing a mountain to experience high-altitude sickness. Altitude sickness is by its nature a very individual thing and this is an important point. Some people feel far less affected than others. During my time in Latin America’s high-altitude cities and mountains I have experienced trekking with people who barely feel it and those who are virtually debilitated by it. I am somewhere in between but leaning towards the debilitating side. Altitude sickness has little to do with fitness, weight, age or lifestyle – it strikes in what appears to be an entirely random fashion. Add that to the fact that just because you felt it on one trip you may not feel it on the next and you’ve got yourself a curve ball effect. The only thing we know for sure is that good acclimatisation is essential.

Walking off the plane and through the airport, I felt very strange, weak, heavy and tired. At first, though these symptoms can easily be confused with jet lag, especially after a night flight. A quick taxi ride and then an exhilarating cable car ride brought us down to a more respectable 3600m in the downtown area where I was deposited in my hotel to sleep for a few hours before starting work. As I lay down to sleep I could feel my heart pounding in my chest. Heading out later into the chaotic streets of La Paz every breath felt laboured.

Over the next few days, I had many meetings and this required hot-footing it around La Paz’s maze of hilly streets. Walking uphill felt as if I was carrying at least a 20kg backpack. My head veered between a haze and a blinding headache. Sleep was restless and my dreams were vivid but confused. My mouth was so dry it felt like the world’s worst hangover. As you can imagine none of these contributed to the professional demeanour I was hoping to conjure. I arrived at each meeting unable to speak with breathlessness, gulping water down and running for the nearest toilet.

High Altitude Tips Bolivia

What Is Altitude Sickness?

Descent to lower altitude is the only cure for moderate or acute AMS. If you are ascending a mountain and begin to feel confused, dizzy, nauseous, breathless at rest, have heart palpitations or begin to cough phlegm you must descend immediately.

So what is altitude sickness? Altitude sickness, or AMS  (Acute Mountain Sickness), occurs at altitudes of over 2500m, although generally symptoms are felt at over 3000m. Symptoms occur due to the decrease in atmospheric pressure which means the body can take in less oxygen. At 3,600 metres (12,000 feet) there are roughly 40% fewer oxygen molecules per breath so the body must adjust to having less oxygen.

However what causes symptoms of AMS is when you ascend too high too quickly, for example when flying. If the body is given enough time, it can to adjust to the decreased oxygen at a specific altitude which is known as acclimatisation. The most important basic rule for climbers, trekkers and mountaineers is, therefore, to ascend slowly.

Acclimatisation takes from 1-3 days generally but is necessary for each increase in altitude. Mild AMS, which is what I experienced in La Paz, is very common. Acute AMS takes 2 forms and can be fatal in rare cases.

High Altitude Tips

Coca tea is the first of my high altitude tips as its mild stimulating effect, aids with the symptoms of altitude sickness. The Coca plant is native to western Latin America and is famous throughout the world on account of its psychoactive alkaloid which when extracted and processed chemically becomes the base of cocaine. Don’t panic, it’s legal!

The amount of alkaloids present in the raw coca leaf is very small; actually, it’s minute in comparison with the amount of alkaloids contained in a line of cocaine. Drinking the tea, therefore, does not produce any type of narcotic high, although the growth of Coca in Bolivia has been controversial for a long time.

Indigenous president Evo Morales has faced a long-running battle with the US and would like to see it eradicated but the Coca Leaf is a large part of the local economy, and millions of rural families survive by growing and trading it for medicinal and traditional use. Chewed by Andean workers for centuries, coca leaves are now synonymous with Bolivian culture.  

Sickness Pills

Sorojchi (Spanish for altitude sickness) pills are Bolivian-made, sold in every pharmacy, in La Paz and pretty much all high-altitude tourist spots in Latin America. They contain aspirin, caffeine and a type of paracetamol so they are only treating the symptoms rather than the cause, but they did work for me.

Altitude can mess with your sleep as the decreased oxygen supply means your breathing is shallower. Paracetamol or natural remedies such as melatonin can help you stop continually waking. People also say sleeping on your left side helps increase oxygen intake.

So what other high-altitude tips are there that you can do when catapulting your body from low to high altitude in a plane is the only option?

High Altitude Tips, Wo

Recommendations

Acclimatisation is the key – Give yourself 1-2 days at a high altitude before doing any activities. Avoid increasing your sleeping altitude by more than 300m per night without acclimatising first.

Keep well hydrated  – Your digestive system works more slowly at altitude and water helps it along, as does a high-fibre diet. If you are flying in then one of the best high altitude tips is to drink lots and eat light meals on the plane.

Take it easy for the first 24 hours – Your body needs rest to produce more red blood cells which are needed to carry oxygen around the body. Walk slowly and take short breaks often.

Exercise before setting off– This can help increase your lung capacity.

Eat light, easily digestible meals – Eating several smaller meals is best.

Avoiding alcohol and smoking is pretty much a recommendation whatever the issue.

Sleep low – This mainly applies to trekking but for example, in La Paz, the Zona Sur is around 500m below the Downtown area and this can help if you are susceptible to AMS.

Try not to fly at high altitudes, overland transport or walking is best!

High Altitude Tips, La Paz, Bolivia

Contact Information

With thanks to Caroline Joyner from the Travel Counsellors for her high altitude tips. If you are interested in a holiday to Bolivia or any part of South America please get in touch with her on the details below.

T: 07801 591350
E: caroline.joyner@travelcounsellors.com