Bolivia is a poor South American country with a wide and varied climate yet it also has some natural treasures that any other country on the continent would be proud of. The country is perhaps best known for its barren, desolate plains backed by snow-capped mountains. However, it also lays claim to a stretch of the Amazon, rocky deserts, tropical valleys, and canyons.
Up high in the Andes is the capital, La Paz. which sits in a hollow at 3,640 meters above sea level. As a result, if you are arriving on a long-haul flight it’s best to spend time in La Paz acclimatizing. Check out my “Breathless in Bolivia” blog for more details.
La Paz is a fascinating city and allows visitors to discover different architectural styles, colonial streets, and churches. In addition to this, there are many galleries, boutiques, artists, fine cuisine, and trendy cafes. All of this is backed by the incredible Cordillera Real mountain range and at its heart, the majestic Mount Illimani.
It’s not all beauty though as look to the other side and you will see a steep valley peppered with shabby homes belonging to the poorer citizens of La Paz.
Check out the Mercado de las Brujas or the Witches Market, the Zebras of La Paz, the National Museum of Ethnography and Folklore or go and see Wrestling Cholitas. This is the traditional sport of indigenous Bolivian women.
The golden rule for travelling in Bolivia is to travel during the day as by night it can be dangerous. The route from La Paz to Copacabana is notorious for problems. In addition to this during the rainy season, there are threats of landslides and of course, in the Amazon, there are poisonous and dangerous animals. However, don’t let this put you off this incredible country. Just plan. Ask locals and fellow travellers before taking a blind leap into an area you are not fully clued up on.
Top Things To See & Do
Bolivian Amazon The Bolivian Amazon offers visitors the chance to get up close and personal with local tribe communities while staying at sustainable eco-lodges. Opportunities for adventure exist on the rivers. Here you can canoe and look for wildlife such as Tapir, Jaguars, or Anacondas, fish for piranhas, or just revel in the fact you are in the heart of the Amazon.
La Paz & The Andean Altiplano La Paz is an intriguing city and worth exploring both in the city and in the vast Andean plains and mountains that surround it.
Lake Titicaca Nestled between Peru and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca is believed to be the birthplace of the Incas and is South America’s largest lake.
Santa Cruz & the Oriente Santa Cruz is the largest city in the Oriente region of Bolivia. It is also the gateway to the beautiful Amboro National Park. The town of El Fuerte is worth a visit for its restored buildings and churches. The Oriente occupies over 70% of the country in its northern and eastern parts.
Sucre & Potosi These colonial towns are linked in history but different in their ways. Sucre is one of the most beautiful places in all of Bolivia with its colonial architecture, white buildings, cosmopolitan streets, and cool cafes. Potosi however was the center of silver mining back in the 1500s and is now a UNESCO World Heritage site
Uyuni Salt Flats Located at the intersection of Chile, Bolivia, and Argentina these salt flats are one of the most remarkable places on earth. At certain times of the year, nearby lakes overflow leaving a shallow layer of water across over 4,000 miles of the Andean Altiplano.
Japan had never been a destination that I had ever really considered visiting. However with the country hosting a Rugby World Cup in October 2019 suddenly my attention was gained. As soon as my name was pulled out of the ballot for match tickets it was time to make plans!
I called upon several friends who had far greater knowledge and expertise on the country than I did and before you could say “Dim Sum” I had a list of recommended places to visit as long as my arm.
Whilst I always love to see iconic places I do also love the sense of adventure and have always liked to go off the beaten track and explore. As a result, I have never been keen on set group tours as witnessing for myself that little village where tourists rarely tread is to me what it’s all about.
So once the planning was done what followed was one of the trips of my lifetime. Japan is a destination that opened my eyes in so many ways and question how I live my life back in sunny Sussex, England. I had always thought of Japan as a destination for the retired. A place to go on one of those regimented tours and marvel over bonsai trees and cherry blossoms or stare at ancient porcelain. What I had not envisaged was that Japan was a place for all. For families, couples, nature lovers, the party animals, and the adventurous!
Travelling in Japan is without doubt one of the greatest concerns of those planning a trip. However, with the lure of a ride on a 320kph Shinkansen or as we know it, the hi-tech state-of-the-art “Bullet” train, all the initial worry and confusion is soon replaced with excitement and admiration. For this a travel network that is both precise in its execution and outstanding quality in its design.
Tokyo is served by two major airports: Narita (NRT) and Haneda (HND). You will find that at both the service is great, there is plenty of space and the queues move fairly fast. I experienced both airports and found that within ½ an hour of landing I was on my way via either bus or rail transit links to the city.
Japan’s internal flight network was cheap and easy to book through portals such as Skyscanner. I flew on Skymark Airlines which is the Japanese equivalent of our Easyjet or Ryanair with a good selection of regional airports.
Most regional routes are operated out of Haneda whereas Narita tends to take most of the international flights however do check!
Tokyo’s Metro can be a little daunting. More so the getting to the correct platform rather than when you are on it. Something you will soon realise is that you have to form a wonderfully orderly queue to board the train. Simply look for the signs on the floor!
I would recommend purchasing a SUICA card which is like your London Oyster card and valid on bus and metro trains. You can also use your Suica to buy food or drink at convenience stores which is handy if, at that moment, you are running low on cash.
The Bus system is straightforward with clear signs at bus stops, on-board electronic guidance and of course Japanese precision in terms of timing and service. The driver’s English though is likely to be non-existent.
Another way to experience parts of Tokyo and Kyoto, particularly in the more ancient areas is to have a runner pull you around on a traditional Japanese Rickshaw. This is a fantastic memory to take away and will usually set you back about 3000 yen.
For Taxis, there are two tips. Firstly, watch out as a taxi pulls up because the rear nearside door opens automatically. It soon becomes quite an observation of fun but only after it clobbered you in the crutch a couple of times! You can hail taxis down on the street although there are taxi ranks wherever you go in terms of the main cities.
The only difficulty I discovered was the drivers don’t tend to speak English. Therefore a map or in particular assistance from your hotel porter to send you off in the right direction is always a good idea. You will soon realise the hotel concierge will become your best friend.
One thing you will certainly need if you are travelling around the country is a Japan Rail Pass. This is a special ticket available only to travellers visiting Japan from abroad for sightseeing. The pass offers unlimited travel on trains operated by Japan Railways Group including most Shinkansen (bullet trains) and buses throughout Japan plus the Miyajima ferry.
It is worth booking this in advance and then when you are ready, you activate it and from that moment have access to the network. You can purchase 7, 14 or 21-day durations and these start at about £225 per person for 7 days.
The Tokyo Sakura Tram sometimes referred to as the Toden, is the only tram line left in Tokyo. It runs from Minowabashi Station to Waseda Station and covers 12.2 km with 30 stations.
Places To Stay in Japan
Hotels are expensive throughout Japan, particularly in the major cities. However, the ANA chain of hotels in Tokyo was well-priced and common throughout the city. The famous Gracery Hotel in Shinjuku complete with its Godzilla T-Rex on the roof that roars on the hour to the delight of waiting tourists is a perfectly positioned quality central hotel near the action and nightlife.
If staying in a well-known chain like Crown Plaza or Hilton look out for the free airport shuttles although the per-night prices tend to be steeper.
For an unusual experience then pods are a cheap and fun way to spend a night however don’t book yourself in for a week.
Simple hotels in the area around Kawaguchiko, Fuji are more reasonably priced but don’t expect too much as rooms are basic and furnishings dated. For most guests, however, it’s all about the outdoors here.
As with anywhere in the world location comes at a price but if you get in quick there are bargains to be had!
Memories Of Japan
The Japanese people are just incredible. They are just so kind, so courteous, so welcoming and so warm. How it had taken me 51 years to discover this I will never know but I would urge you to visit this beautifully diverse country, even if only to restore your faith in mankind.
I shot this simple video as I left the Rugby World Cup Final in Yokohama. The Japanese volunteers from young to old were magnificent and on this final occasion, they formed a line which for me epitomized the friendly, wonderful welcome we had received all across the country.
Japan is more than the bright lights of Tokyo or the mystical charm of Kyoto, it’s a country that makes you feel alive and wanting more.
Without question Japan is up there in my top destinations in the world – it’s incredible and I just love the place.
Kyoto, Japan
Top 20 Things To See & Do In Japan
Explore the bustling streets of Tokyo, visiting iconic landmarks like the Tokyo Tower, Senso-ji Temple, and Meiji Shrine.
Experience traditional Japanese culture in Kyoto, with visits to historic sites such as Kinkaku-ji (Golden Pavilion), Fushimi Inari Shrine, and Arashiyama Bamboo Grove.
Witness the majestic beauty of Mount Fuji, either by hiking the trails around the mountain or taking a scenic cruise on nearby Lake Kawaguchi.
Immerse yourself in Japanese history at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum, dedicated to the victims of the atomic bombing during World War II.
Sample the world-famous gastronomy and in particular the beef in Kobe.
Visit the historic city of Nara, home to Todai-ji Temple and its giant bronze Buddha statue, as well as friendly wild deer roaming freely in Nara Park.
Explore the ancient capital of Kamakura, known for its numerous temples and shrines, including the Great Buddha of Kamakura.
Experience the natural beauty of Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, with its stunning national parks, hot springs, and wildlife.
Relax in the tranquil atmosphere of Japanese gardens, such as Ritsurin Koen in Takamatsu or Kenrokuen in Kanazawa.
Take a scenic train journey on the Shinkansen (bullet train) to destinations like Yokohama, Osaka, Nagoya, or Hiroshima, experiencing Japan’s efficient and punctual rail system.
Discover the vibrant nightlife of Osaka, sample delicious street food in Dotonbori or enjoy panoramic views from the Umeda Sky Building.
Attend a traditional sumo wrestling match in Tokyo or Osaka, witnessing this ancient sport firsthand.
Explore the historic samurai district of Kanazawa, with its well-preserved samurai residences and traditional tea houses.
Visit the iconic red torii gates of Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto, walking along the winding paths through thousands of gates.
Experience the unique art of Japanese cuisine with a sushi-making class or a kaiseki (multi-course) meal at a traditional ryokan (inn).
Visit Osaka and relax in a traditional Japanese onsen (hot spring), soaking in the therapeutic mineral waters while surrounded by beautiful natural scenery.
Discover the ancient art of bonsai at the Omiya Bonsai Village in Saitama, home to some of Japan’s oldest and most prized bonsai trees.
Explore the historic streets of Takayama’s old town, known for its beautifully preserved Edo-period architecture and local crafts.
Attend a traditional kabuki or Noh theatre performance, experiencing the elaborate costumes, music, and dance of Japan’s classical performing arts.
Visit the sacred island of Miyajima, home to the iconic Itsukushima Shrine and its famous “floating” torii gate, set against the backdrop of Mount Misen.
Kyoto Travel Blog Monkey Japan
Pre-bookable Excursions in Japan
More Information
The Japan Tourist Office provides a wide choice of useful information including places to go, things to do and what you can expect from the weather.
Hong Kong packs the perfect mix of architecture, landmarks, museums, stunning views, and wonderful history. From the crazy, bustling streets of Kowloon packed with museums and lively markets to the rich history, modern architecture, and breathless views at Hong Kong Central – Hong Kong has something for everyone.
The gastronomy was mind-blowing if a little confusing at times. A wander around the markets will give you some idea of what is going to end up on your table. Bird’s Nest soup, dim sum, and all manner of seafood and waffles to name just a few.
A particularly efficient and extensive transit network allows you to get from one place to another quickly. So, however long you have in Hong Kong, there is no excuse to miss any of these diverse yet highly sophisticated destinations.
Before planning a trip, you should probably know that Hong Kong tends to be more expensive than most other Asian destinations.
The peak season for visiting is in the spring between March and May and September and November with temperatures warm and fresh.
I had just 48 hours in Hong Kong. I guess I was expecting this crazy busy, high-tech, bustling city full of businessmen in dark suits working all the hours god gave them to fund a lifestyle of high-powered cars and luxury apartments in the clouds.
What I discovered was a complex city and yes, there was all of the above but much more besides. I particularly enjoyed the lovely Tsim Sha Tsui promenade at Kowloon, the markets and mayhem of Hong Kong Island, and by night the charm and character of the central district.
Overall, I found the people eager to help, charming and courteous and the service was superb throughout my stay. My 2/3 days here were most enjoyable and probably just enough – it is what it is. A fabulous short stopover city to recharge after a long flight then power on to your end destination which in my case was to have been Japan but also included a trip to Macau.
I would, if the opportunity presented itself, come back as it is such a great city to explore and a firm favourite among culture seekers, shoppers, foodies, and even outdoor enthusiasts.
Market Hong Kong
Getting Around
Cathay Pacific is the main airline and operates regular flights as well as Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow to Hong Kong. The in-flight service on Cathay was excellent. We invested in premium legroom seats and for this 11-hour 45-minute flight, I would say that it was worth every penny.
After arrival at the airport, we took the Hong Kong Express train to the city centre just 25 minutes away for a cost of about $8. On board, the electronic sign keeps you fully up to date on your location so you don’t miss your stop.
The bus is an hour and just $5 but both regular and convenient.
The airport is as you would expect, modern, full of shops and amenities, and easy signage directing you to buses, trains, or taxis.
The Hong Kong Metro or MTR (Mass Transit Railway), is a rapid transit railway system that boasts four kinds of metro lines serving different areas. There are 84 railway stations and 68 light rail stops in total connecting HK Island, Kowloon, and other districts.
I would recommend buying Hong Kong’s transit card, the Octopus card. This way, you can simply tap and go on buses and the MTR without the headache of searching for small change.
Take a trip on the Star Ferry or a traditional red sail junk boat from Victoria Harbour to admire the skyscrapers from the water. Or why not head to the Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront for the best views of the famous ‘Symphony of Lights show?
Taxis, as you would expect, are everywhere and the prices are reasonable although best to try and avoid peak times as parts of the city can get very clogged up with traffic during rush hour. You can hail taxis down on the street although there are taxi ranks wherever you go in terms of the main cities.
The only difficulty I discovered was the drivers don’t tend to speak English. Therefore a map or in particular assistance from your hotel porter to send you off in the right direction is always a good idea. You will soon realize the hotel concierge will become your best friend.
The Bus system is straightforward with clear signs at bus stops, on-board electronic guidance, and of course Japanese precision in terms of timing and service. The driver’s English though is likely to be nonexistent.
Places To Stay in Hong Kong
Hong Kong is a densely packed city with plenty of accommodation options. I would make sure you book well in advance as rooms fill up quickly however the bad news is that it is very expensive as the below indicates.
A standard bed in a dorm – 30 to 40 GBP per night A simple and small room – 50 to 100 GBP per night Decent mid-range hotel – 100 to 170 GBP per night The upscale hotel – 170 to 250 GBP per night Luxury hotel – 250 to 800 GBP per night
I stayed on Hong Kong island which is the best option for first-time visitors. From here, you are well placed to see all the top attractions, and it’s not far to walk if you want to take a short junk boat trip across to Kowloon.
The Novotel Hong Kong Century in the heart of the Wan Chai District was priced at £100 per room per night. While not cheap this location was ideal and the quality was assured although the room was on the rather small side! There is a nice pool however you need to get there early as the sun disappears behind the surrounding tower blocks later in the day.
I would, if the opportunity presented itself, come back as it is such a great city to explore and a firm favourite among culture seekers, shoppers, foodies, and even outdoor enthusiasts.
Pre bookable Excursions in Hong Kong
More Information
The Hong Kong Tourist Office provides a wide choice of useful information including places to go, things to do and what you can expect from the weather.
In recent decades Namibia has developed into a top travel destination for those wanting to experience real Africa. A deeply proud and traditional country, Namibia is home to some of the very best wildlife and scenery that the continent of Africa has to offer.
Namibia gained its independence in 1990 and is a country spanning over 200 million acres yet it has a tiny population meaning that amongst its deserts, canyons, and long sweeping coast you may see more wildlife than human life!
The Namibia wildlife is somewhat of a success story as aside from the numerous springbok, baboons, giraffes, and elephants you will also witness large numbers of both black and white rhinos and lions and this is largely down to the efforts of local conversation communities, the government, and other non-profit organizations.
There are other magnificent attractions in the country including the Namib desert where you can climb dunes or hover over them in a hot air balloon.
Be sure to check out my guest blog from Obeo Travel – Explore Namibia.
Hiring a car and taking a self-drive is a very popular and highly recommended way of discovering the incredible landscape.
You could also take a private guide who comes with the local knowledge to take you to those hidden places, especially in a country as vast and barren as this.
Many visitors to Namibia will combine a stay with a tour of the neighbouring countries of South Africa and Botswana.
Top 20 Things To See & Do in Namibia
Namibia offers a diverse range of experiences, from thrilling safaris to serene desert landscapes, making it a truly unforgettable destination for adventurous travellers.
Sossusvlei and Deadvlei: Witness the towering red dunes and stark white clay pans, a photographer’s dream.
Etosha National Park: Go on a safari adventure to spot lions, elephants, rhinos, and more in this vast wildlife reserve.
Skeleton Coast: Explore the eerie landscapes and shipwrecks along this desolate coastline.
Fish River Canyon: Hike along one of Africa’s largest canyons, offering breathtaking vistas and challenging trails.
Swakopmund: Experience adventure sports like sandboarding and quad biking, or simply relax on the picturesque beaches.
Namib-Naukluft National Park: Discover the diverse ecosystems, from desert plains to rugged mountains, and encounter unique wildlife.
Damaraland: Visit ancient rock engravings at Twyfelfontein and search for desert-adapted elephants and rhinos.
Cheetah Conservation Fund: Learn about conservation efforts and get up close with cheetahs at this research centre.
Caprivi Strip: Explore lush wetlands and spot a variety of birdlife along the Okavango and Zambezi Rivers.
Kolmanskop Ghost Town: Wander through the abandoned diamond mining town, now reclaimed by the desert.
Himba Villages: Experience traditional Himba culture and customs in remote villages in northern Namibia.
Namib Desert: Marvel at the vastness of the world’s oldest desert and its unique flora and fauna.
Spitzkoppe: Hike among dramatic granite peaks and ancient rock formations, camping under the stars.
Kaokoland: Encounter the nomadic Himba and Herero people, and explore rugged landscapes dotted with baobab trees.
Epupa Falls: Admire the cascading waterfalls on the Kunene River and visit the traditional villages of the Himba people.
Grootberg Plateau: Enjoy panoramic views of the rugged landscape and search for desert-adapted wildlife.
NamibRand Nature Reserve: Experience true solitude and serenity in this vast wilderness area, perfect for stargazing.
Okonjima Nature Reserve: Learn about cheetah and leopard conservation and track these magnificent predators on foot.
Namibian Craft Markets: Shop for locally made crafts and souvenirs, supporting local artisans and communities.
Hot Air Balloon Safari: Float above the Namib Desert at sunrise, taking in panoramic views and spotting wildlife from above.
Pre-bookable Excursions in Namibia
More Information
The Namibia Tourist Office provides a wide choice of useful information including places to go, things to do and what you can expect from the weather.
Now, to be honest, discovering the continent of Africa is right up there on my to-do list however, it has always been the countries of South Africa, Kenya, and Botswana that have drawn my interest. Until now I had not considered a trip to explore Namibia – an off-the-beaten track, a multi-faceted destination known to many for its array of natural attractions and landscapes.
Namibia also boasts the big 5 (and the little 5) meaning that safaris can be experienced as well as adventure, star gazing and culture. The country has year-round sunshine so when you put all these attractions together you can be sure that your first visit to Namibia will not be your last.
This was indeed the case for Rannveig Snorradottir the Managing Director of Obeo Travel who has already demonstrated her love of Iceland and wanted to showcase to us why Namibia has always been a country close to her heart.
The Namibian Experience
The country of Namibia is a place that stays with you in your heart and you find yourself wanting to go back again and again. It is no surprise as the people are friendly, the wildlife is incredible and the landscape is like no other that you will find in this world!
To showcase the highlights of this spectacular country, I like to split Namibia into four very different experiences;
The Namib Desert
Sossusvlei is the oldest desert in the world, with some of the highest dunes you can find and hands down the most breathtaking desert experience you will have in your life. These dunes with their incredible red colours are best explored at sunrise – catching that moment where you can watch the colours of the dunes change.
In the heart of Sossusvlei, you will find Deadvlei, a place unique to Namibia with a large white clay pan filled with completely dead trees! It‘s the most surreal sight, and every time I visit it catches my breath. The best way to experience this is by climbing Big Daddy, considered the world‘s highest dune at a whopping 350 meters high. The climb is challenging but rewarding and when reaching the top you will experience views that you could not otherwise witness. Running down this dune is likely the funniest thing you‘ll do, taking you directly into the unreal sight of Deadvlei.
Swakopmund
This is a gorgeous town nestled between the Atlantic Ocean and the Namib Desert and is considered an adventurer’s paradise. For good reason, people fall in love with this charming town, the colourful buildings, the African market by the beach and the abundance of activities you can enjoy depending on your interest.
Take a trip on one of the 4×4 vehicles for a bit of dune bashing, taking you to Sandwich Harbor, the only place in the world where you can witness dunes crashing into the ocean. Jump on board our cruise ships sailing for half a day in search of dolphins and whales and don‘t be surprised when a seal and a pelican join you on board!
Join the incredible guides to explore Namibia on a living desert tour, finding the “Little 5“ of Africa – the snakes, lizards, chameleons, spiders and geckos. Take a trip to the dunes to enjoy a camel ride, quad bikes or even sandboarding. Or the ultimate adventure; skydive from a height of 10,12 or 15 thousand feet over the world‘s oldest desert! A truly once-in-a-lifetime activity not to be missed.
Damaraland
With its breathtaking scenery of rocky mountains, home to the Damara people and the elusive Desert adapted elephant – nobody should miss a visit to Damaraland on their Namibia journey.
The Desert-adapted elephant can only be found in two places in the world however right here you can join an open-truck safari in search of this magnificent animal. The elephant has adapted to the rough desert conditions, being a little smaller, with flatter feet (even seen sliding down dunes!), stronger trunks (to dig deeper for water) and it can walk up to 80km per day in search of water.
These are the true gentle giants of Namibia and of Africa.
Etosha National Park
Here you can enjoy Africa‘s wildlife in all its glory. Etosha is the 3rd largest national park in all of Africa and is home to the great Etosha Salt Pan, so large it can be seen from space.
The Etosha National Park is home to an abundance of wildlife, and you should spend at least 3 nights to get the best of a safari experience. The feeling of sitting by the waterhole in complete silence, viewing the rich variety of wildlife coming by for a drink, or to bathe, is an indescribable feeling that will live with you forever.
Contact Information
Our thanks to Rannveig Snorradottir the Managing Director of Obeo Travel for writing this explore Namibia travel blog and for highlighting the magnificence of a truly unique and beautiful country.
For more information and to book contact your local travel agent.
It was back in late 1997, way before mobile phones and travel blogs when my boss announced that he was looking for someone to head out to the island of Corsica (La Corse) to set up a new company base in the south of this little-known Mediterranean island.
For some years the company “Holiday Options” had chartered aircraft to the northern airports of Bastia and Calvi while utilising scheduled British Airways services into Corsica’s west coast capital of Ajaccio. However, they had never invested in a flight program to the tiny airport of Figari at the bottom of this French but fiercely independent “Ile de Beaute”.
The timing was perfect – a relationship had ended, the pangs of travelling and adventure were once again surfacing and the opportunity to discover a new destination and to challenge myself was too good to resist.
Was this the moment to take a new direction in my life – of “Corse” it was!
En Route To Corsica
The following April of 1998 I packed, sorry I crammed full, a rather shoddy plum-coloured Ford Escort and headed for Dover before a long journey down the route de Soleil to Nice in France where I spent the night at the Hotel Le Negresco on the Promenade Des Anglais, the most famous hotel in Nice, courtesy of a favour from a kind member of staff who was a personal friend of our finance manager…. it’s who you know…. you know!!
After a night wallowing in a glittery pea-green marble bath the size of a Renault 5, I took the 4.5-hour-long ferry over to a wet and dreary Ile Rousse in northern Corsica. I then drove across the north coast past pretty St Florent and the Patrimonio vineyards to the industrial centre of Bastia, a city I never really embraced, before hanging a right turn and heading south about 150 kilometres, hugging the east coast of the island all the way.
With every kilometre that I drove the weather improved and as I got close to my new home it was as if someone was watching down on me as the sun was shining, the crickets were chirping and that unmistakable Mediterranean fragrance of pine trees and maquis-filled the air – I had at last arrived.
The Start Of A New Life
I pulled into the little hamlet of La Trinite de Porto Vecchio, just north of the main town of Porto Vecchio and checked in with the local electrician, Monsieur Marchetti, who was renting out his little apartment to me for the year. At least I knew who to call in the event of a power cut – as I said, it’s who you know… you know!
It was at this moment in my life that I can honestly say my life changed as after I had emptied the shoddy plum-coloured escort of its contents, I shut the door behind me in this little apartment, I stared at the boxes and with everything I owned and my life there in front of me, I am not afraid to say it… I cried!
Come on Rupert what the hell – I mean you haven’t cried since Paul Gascoigne got sent off in the World Cup semi-final of 1990 so why now? I now look back on that moment (the Corsica one not the Paul Gascoigne one) and realise it was a defining moment in my life – I was tired and alone on an island in the med – I knew nobody, I could not speak the language, the emotions of leaving home, a poorly Mum and friends all left behind and this was it – the start of my new life. I will never forget that moment and often wonder if all those people who head off to the sun every year to work, possibly have that same emotion – perhaps they just don’t admit it till they are older!
Now Monsieur Marchetti, did not speak a word of English, in fact even worse, he spoke Corsican, a mix of Latin and Italian but he owned a yacht and had an attractive daughter, so I soon snapped out of my emotional state and promptly learned some Corsican chat up lines and had the time of my life discovering every square inch of this truly beautiful Mediterranean island.
Small and Hot, That’s Figari
At some time during the next few days I headed 30 minutes inland to Figari Airport – this was to be my office for the year where I would greet our mainly affluent, middle to older-aged guests and whisk them off to their accommodation for an island briefing and a glass of fizz. Now back then Figari Airport was the size of…two Renault 5’s. It had no air-conditioning and one coffee bar selling…. well …coffee…. however, if your luck was in then there was a charcuterie-filled baguette.. this was to be my staple diet for the next six months!
Over the next 4 weeks, I negotiated deals with car hire companies, and boat excursions, sampled restaurants, met hoteliers, and villa owners and travelled all around the island to truly understand it, before the first guests arrived in early May. My French improved quickly and I particularly remember learning the word “disponibiite” which means “availability” in French – useful when you need a last-minute hotel room due to overbooking.
The morning of the first arrivals into Figari, I got to meet the other reps who were to become my friends and drinking buddies… Alistair and Bea a couple representing Simply Travel whom I recall catching and barbequing a moray eel with one evening (it tastes like chicken – it always does right… but avoid the head as it’s poisonous!). Then there was Florence a lovely mischievous partner in crime from Corsican Places, a ginger-haired lady with freckles from Corsican Affair and then a guy who did not last long from Voyages Ilena – not sure why – maybe he evaporated due to the lack of air-con!
Figari Airport, CorsicaCorsica Apartment and Car
Porto Vecchio, Corsica
Now most guests coming for a holiday in Corsica and arriving in Figari will stay in and around the town of Porto Vecchio.
A historic old town with a small harbour which is lined with restaurants, ice cream parlours and “plongee” schools – or to you and me… dive centres! From here you can take the lung-bursting walk or catch the road train up to the citadel up high with a gorgeous square, a church and numerous bars and restaurants with al fresco dining and in some cases a sea view.
The food in Corsica is amazing. With the Italian influence, you have incredible pasta and pizza options aplenty and then with the French influence you get the gorgeous salads, the steaks, the charcuterie boards, the various cheeses and straight out of the med the fish of which daurade and rouget or red mullet is popular. One speciality I always recall, but not in a positive way, was “Oursins”, which they sell at little kiosks on the roadside – a squeeze of lemon and a cocktail stick will enable you to pick out the contents of a spiky, gristly, uncooked sea urchin…. I think I would rather step on one and that’s saying something!
Head off down any of the narrow little cobbled side streets and you will find boutique shops, ice cream parlours full of excited kids, souvenirs selling T-shirts with the Corsican symbol of a Moorish head wearing a white bandana and hidden music bars where I was often found in the summer of 98 drinking the local chestnut beer, Pietra, whilst listening to a variety of local singers that ranged from god damn awful to future stars in the making although to be fair, that may have been the chestnut beer messing with my hearing!
Port Plaisance, Porto Vecchio, Corsica
Live Music at La Taverne Du Roi
The oldest and most famous bar in town is La Taverne du Roi – the Tavern of the King and this was to be my showpiece venue when welcoming educational groups of travel agents to the island. After a dinner in town, we headed for this magical dark and dingy old tavern up in the citadel where, after I had insisted everyone have a shot of the local rocket fuel, Myrthe, a Myrtle Berry Liqueur, we then sat on a little stool or when busy (and considerably easier for some), the floor.
Local Corsican musicians would then sing hypnotic Corsican music (such as songs from the band “I Muvrini”) followed by some more lively recognisable tracks by which point the Myrthe had normally kicked in and the group of previously sedate travel agents had morphed into a gaggle of unashamedly wild drunken lunatics.
The song I always remember and the one that ended the night was Ben E. King’s “Stand by Me” – ironic as this was something by this stage most of the agents couldn’t. The band started singing it in Corsican and finished it in English – by the end of the summer they knew this was my favourite so it was a given that it would be played! Very special memories.
Summer Nights Drinking Chestnut Beer
Porto Vecchio is a typical Corsican town that you need to immerse yourself in to truly understand. You need to learn the history, discover the little back streets that are tucked away, sample the different restaurants, and of course find your favourite bar. I settled for the Bar Les Beaux Arts as my local where most nights I could be found drinking that chestnut beer and talking in French about football, women, and beer to the owner Grufty, a name I gave him, as he had a very deep voice as if he had smoked 100 Gitanes a day all his life which to be fair, he probably had!
It was the summer of 1998, and it was the football World Cup in France so every night a game was on. I even popped over by plane to the iconic Stade Velodrome in Marseille to watch England play Tunisia on that infamous weekend of hooliganism. Now Corsicans are fiercely independent – there is an undercurrent of mafia on the island symbolised by the bullet-ridden town signs where the French version is peppered with holes while the Corsican version remains untouched.
When football was discussed, it was Man Utd, Juventus or Bastia – the top team in Corsica – rarely ever was Paris St Germain or Marseille mentioned. However, this summer was the year that France hosted the World Cup and I remember partying the night away at the Bar Les Beaux Arts as Brazil and Ronaldo were defeated by the French “Les Bleus” after which the town was alive with the waving of Tricolore and the sounds of “Allez Les Bleus” and “Champions” as well as car horns blaring through the night.
Such good times but the outpouring of love for the mainland was so out of character for those Corsicans I had come to know!
Le Taverne du Roi, Porto Vecchio, Corsica
Burning Love
Late nights in those days then involved going clubbing and with a choice of two discotheques it was Via Notte or Amnesia. Now Via Notte is still going strong and was my favourite and without question, the best nightclub I have ever been to …. Incredible music, DJs, drinks served by beautiful people, podium dancers (myself on one occasion) and to make it special they often had circus acts like fire breathers, jugglers, and acrobats – it’s not many clubs you can go to and come back with singed ears – health and safety would have a field day – a night at Via Notte was a night like no other.
From memory… Amnesia however was a different experience – owned by the father-in-law of French Singer, Johnny Halliday it was built like an amphi-theatre and was the largest nightclub in all of France hosting 4,000 people and attracting DJs like Carl Cox. It was fully exposed to the open air and generated an amazing atmosphere but there were tensions and at the end of my season in Corsica, the place was bombed and left in ruins to this day. You can now even walk around and explore and for those of us who were there, reminisce.
The moral of the story – don’t mess with the Corsicans!
Swimming with Corsican Cows
After a night on the tiles, if it is not your hotel pool to relax by, it will be on one of the many superb sandy beaches stretching along the southeast coast.
My favourite was always Santa Giulia Bay – a horseshoe-shaped beach, packed with watersports opportunities and with a cool music beach bar and grill for an amazing fresh alfresco seafood lunch and the finest sand you will find anywhere in the med. However, there are days when the seaweed or jellyfish come in but they are rare but worth mentioning so as not to disappoint!
I have a memory of learning to windsurf in this bay and having in the early days not mastered turning into the wind, I think I was halfway to Malta before being rescued.
Other amazing southern beaches, which in some cases remind me now of those in Seychelles with their giant granite boulders and soft white sands, include the most famous Palombagggia beach as well as Pinarello and Cala Rossa which is home to the magnificent Grand Hotel de Cala Rossa.
Then there is Rondinara which looks incredible but it has a rather unusual drawback in that wild cows roam here during certain months of the year both on the beach and in the sea to cool off. Be sure not to place your towel next to or worse still, on a cowpat.
Santa Giulia Bay
Bonifacio, Corsica
Twenty minutes south of Porto Vecchio and on the southernmost tip of the island is Bonifacio. This jaw-droppingly beautiful old town is perched literally on the edge of limestone cliffs and looks out across to Sardinia. The make-up is the same as Porto Vecchio in the sense there is a harbour, and a spectacular one at that, lined with restaurants, bars and full of salesmen offering hour-long boat trips to see a cave which is shaped like local hero Napoleon’s hat. Then up high there is the citadel with arty shops and a tiny square where you can step out to the edge for scary views straight down to the sea crashing on the rocks below. Bonifacio is a must if visiting southern Corsica.
From Bonifacio, you can also take a day trip to Sardinia – one of the best Italian islands. It’s about a one-hour sailing from Corsica to the port of Santa Teresa di Gallura in Sardinia and from there an hour by road to the famous millionaire’s playground of the Costa Smeralda. Do however check the weather as the Straits of Bonifacio can whip up a storm when the strong mistral winds come out to play. You could get stranded in Sardinia which on the face of it is not a hardship unless you have a flight to catch!
About 10 minutes east of Bonifacio is the Golfe de Sperone – the only decent high-quality golf course on the island with immaculate greens, stunning views and facilities you would expect at any top golf course in the world. I have great memories of Sperone when my Mum and Dad came out for a holiday that year and my Mum, in poor health, drove the buggy around the golf course in her pink hat – we had such a special day – she loved golf and they both loved their time in Corsica.
Corsica Travel Blog France
The South of Corsica
Head inland from Porto Vecchio and you will pass numerous campsites frequented by German motor bikers who are prepared to kill to secure their bulk buy of frankfurters and various species of sausage found in the local Geant Supermarche.
Having negotiated your way past these Bratwurst burglars, you will start to climb into the mountains of southern Corsica and after just an hour and about 40 hairpin bends you will reach the Aiguilles De Bavella – the highest point in the south with breathtaking views of the region. If you look closely, you may see rock climbers scaling the peak or paragliders overhead. Up here there are barren grasslands where you can grab a coffee or buy the local “Miel” honey or a bottle of homemade “Myrthe” which is even stronger than the strain that affects those mild-mannered travel agents.
En route to Bavella, you pass through L’Ospedale – a beautiful, pine-fringed, artificial dam up high in the mountains. Then there is the village of Zonza. Incredibly pretty with views across the valleys and featuring one of my favourite restaurants in the world, “L’Auberge de Sanglier”. It means “Inn of the Wild Boar” which is a Corsican speciality when made into a thick rich stew. It’s a remarkably simple open-sided restaurant with sensational views and food that is out of this world. I remember once hosting a group of journalists here and one of them carried out reiki on me after lunch…. I never believed that claptrap… until then!
The road trip (see below) from Porto Vecchio to L’Ospedale to Zonza, up to Bavella all the time dodging cattle in the road before descending alongside the crystal-clear rivers passing numerous waterfalls where you can stop for a dip and then down through the valley to the somewhat ugly seaside town of Solenzara and then a short drive back along the coast to Porto Vecchio, is a dream. If you are a confident driver and enjoy fresh air, peace, mountains, and nature at its best then there are few better day trips than this on the island.
The Island of Mystery
So, there you have it – a snapshot of my year and some of the highlights of Southern Corsica – I have not even touched on the West coast, the central island ancient capital of Corte or the North that hosts equally unforgettable treasures …. that’s for another blog but for now I hope I have showcased an island that for one year was my home – perhaps you had not considered a holiday in Corsica or an adventure – but you should.
Whether it’s in the hot summer months of July and August which is perfect for families or the warm May, June and September days for more active pastimes, Corsica is an incredibly gorgeous edgy island that the wonderful local people passionately and rightly protect to maintain its magic, mystery, nature, traditions, and charm.
This island will forever be etched in my heart as a place where amongst those cardboard boxes in that little apartment I moved from one phase of my life to another…. where better to do that than in Corsica – the Island of beauty!
Corsica Holidays
Is Corsica French or Italian?
The island of Corsica’s proximity to Sardinia naturally leads many to question whether Corsica belongs to Italy. The fact is that Corsica is part of France yet fiercely independent with the flag of the “U Moru” or Moors head symbolizing the freedom of the island. Not since the 18th century when it was ruled by the Genoese has it belonged to Italy.
How To Get There
There are a small number of excellent UK tour operators who today feature holidays to Corsica. Whether you are looking for a villa holiday, a family all-inclusive, self-catering accommodation or a nice hotel in Corsica, just contact your local travel agent.
You may prefer to go directly to the tour operator in which case I have always loved Simpson Travel who were previously Simply Travel and whom my friends Alistair and Bea worked for. Simpson Travel understands Travel, their product selection is impeccable, they offer amazing customer service, and they go the extra mile to ensure your holiday to Corsica exceeds expectations.
Another tour operator to Corsica is Serenity Holidays. They now own Corsican Places and are an excellent choice with decades of experience on the island.
