Seville, nestled in the heart of Andalusia, transforms into a fairy-tale wonderland during December. Despite having only one evening to savour the “Pearl of Andalucia”, I was able to get a taste, not just for tapas and oranges, but a feel for the city’s rich history. I was also able to get into the festive spirit!
A delightful way to see the city in such a limited time is to take a horse and carriage tour. The trusted steed that would take me around the city was Lucija. This ten-year-old horse was an immaculately turned-out lady with a love of carrots. Priced at 50 euros, (haggling optional), the 45-minute ride unveiled some of Seville’s most iconic landmarks, including:
Alcazar
The tour commenced at the awe-inspiring Alcazar. This UNESCO World Heritage site is renowned for its stunning Mudéjar, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural styles.
Its elaborate tilework, sumptuous rooms, and lush gardens serve as a testimony to centuries of history, enthralling guests with its ageless beauty and cultural relevance.
It is worth noting that people were milling around at this time of the year dressed in shirts, trousers with jackets or light coats. Temperatures range from 13 degrees at night to 20-22 degrees during the day.
SevilleReal Alcazar Palace
Seville Cathedral
Seville Cathedral, or the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, is an awe-inspiring architectural marvel located in the heart of Seville, Spain. Built on the site of a former mosque, the cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The cathedral’s exterior is characterized by its imposing size and intricate Gothic design. Its iconic bell tower, known as La Giralda, was originally constructed as a minaret during the Moorish period and later converted into a bell tower. Rising to a height of over 100 meters, La Giralda offers panoramic views of the city and is a symbol of Seville’s rich history.
Inside, the cathedral boasts a breathtaking interior with soaring vaulted ceilings, ornate altars, and majestic stained-glass windows. Visitors can marvel at masterpieces of religious art, including works by renowned artists such as Murillo, Zurbarán, and Goya. The cathedral’s main altar, adorned with intricate gold leaf and intricate carvings, is a sight to behold.
One of the cathedral’s most famous features is the Tomb of Christopher Columbus, which is located near the entrance. The tomb, supported by four allegorical figures representing the kingdoms of Spain, is a symbol of Seville’s historic role in the Age of Discovery.
Palacio Arzobispal
The Palacio Arzobispal, or Archbishop’s Palace, in Seville, is a historic and architectural gem located adjacent to the iconic Seville Cathedral. This magnificent building, constructed in the 16th century, serves as the official residence of the Archbishop of Seville.
The palace boasts an impressive facade characterized by its Renaissance and Baroque architectural elements. Its grand entrance features intricately carved stone details, elegant archways, and ornate balconies, showcasing the craftsmanship of the period. The facade is adorned with sculptural reliefs and decorative motifs, adding to its grandeur and beauty.
Inside, the Palacio Arzobispal reveals a stunning courtyard adorned with lush greenery, marble columns, and a central fountain. Visitors can admire the architectural details and soak in the tranquil ambience of this historic space.
The palace also houses valuable art collections, including paintings, tapestries, and religious artefacts, offering insights into the rich history and cultural heritage of Seville and the Catholic Church.
Overall, the Palacio Arzobispal stands as a testament to Seville’s rich architectural heritage and serves as a fascinating cultural landmark for visitors to explore and appreciate.
Giralda Bell Tower
The iconic Giralda Bell Tower, standing tall in the historic centre and beautifully illuminated is one of the highlights of the city by day or night. Thousands of people lined the streets enjoying the Christmas carols, chestnut vendors and street entertainers.
During Christmas, the Barrio Santa Cruz in Seville transforms into a magical wonderland, exuding festive charm and warmth. Decorated with twinkling lights and colourful ornaments, the narrow streets and squares come alive. Visitors can wander through the enchanting labyrinth of alleys adorned with traditional Christmas decorations, including nativity scenes and illuminated displays.
The aroma of roasted chestnuts and cinnamon fills the air as street vendors offer seasonal treats and gifts. Cafes and tapas bars overflow with locals and tourists alike, enjoying traditional holiday delicacies and mulled wine. Live music performances and street entertainers add to the festive ambience.
At Plaza de Santa Cruz, a towering Christmas tree stands tall, surrounded by festive stalls selling handcrafted ornaments and local crafts. Families gather to admire the decorations and take part in holiday activities, such as carriage rides and visits to Santa Claus.
Torre Del Oro
The tour then takes you along the pretty Guadalquivir River, passing the Torre del Oro. This medieval watchtower, with its characteristic octagonal shape, was initially constructed to regulate access to the city via the river.
In addition to providing tourists with panoramic views from its upper levels, this structure now serves as a guardian of Seville’s nautical heritage. Inside, a museum showcases the city’s rich maritime history through exhibits of navigational tools, models, and artefacts.
Noria De Sevilla
Almost alongside the Torre Del Oro is the Noria De Sevilla wheel. Like many around the world, including London, it offers panoramic views of Seville’s enchanting skyline. A fairground is also onsite making it a popular stop for families with excitable, wide-eyed children all hoping to get their sticky hands on a stick of candy floss larger than themselves.
Noria de Sevilla, SevilleTorre-Del-Oro-Seville
María Luisa Park
Entering the delightful María Luisa Park, my horse-drawn carriage meandered through tree-lined avenues. As the sun had set it had a slight Dickensian atmosphere, almost eery feel with low-lying mist and the sounds of Lucija’s hooves on the road.
Plaza de España
One of the signature landmarks in Seville is the stunning Plaza de España, a Renaissance-inspired square which, at this time of year is adorned with Christmas lights and buzzing with people taking photos.
The Plaza de España, situated within the enchanting Maria Luisa Park, was constructed in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, a monumental project involving around 1,000 workers daily for 15 years. The elliptical square features a prominent central building flanked by two imposing Baroque-style towers, reaching 229 feet high. Along the building’s walls, 48 tiled alcoves and benches represent Spain’s 48 provinces, a picturesque backdrop often photographed by locals.
The square also boasts a captivating 1640-foot-long canal, offering boat rentals. The square has also been featured in films like Lawrence of Arabia, The Dictator, and Star Wars.
Another fun way to discover the city and this Plaza is on a Segway tour.
Plaza-de-EspanaPlaza-de-Espana-Seville
Seville Christmas Markets
Having enjoyed the horse and cart tour it was time to sample Seville’s Christmas markets. From early December they are in full swing selling handcrafted traditional jewellery, festive decorations and seasonal treats.
Stalls such as Alfares Sevilla are best known for the incredible nativity sets and the thousands of different items from Baby Jesus to miniature furniture, terracotta pots and food items.
For every child or parent, adding these intricate pieces, year after year to their nativity scene, is a tradition that brings the family together! It was lovely to see!
The last part of my Festive evening in Seville involved sampling some of the local cuisine at the gorgeous Mateos Restaurant opposite the Cathedral. This local tapas bar is one of many that introduces you to Seville’s culinary delights.
Sample traditional dishes like potato and ham croquettes, salmorejo, a cold tomato soup, or gambas al ajillo, garlic-infused shrimp. To drink you can’t go wrong sipping on a glass of locally produced wine, sherry or sangria. The Sangria will of course come with those famous Seville Oranges which you will see all over the city!
Mateos-RestaurantMateos-Restaurant-Seville
Top 10 Places to Visit in Seville
Alcázar of Seville: Explore this stunning royal palace with its intricate Moorish architecture and beautiful gardens.
Seville Cathedral: Admire the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, home to the tomb of Christopher Columbus.
Plaza de España: Marvel at this grand square with its impressive architecture, ceramic-tiled alcoves, and central fountain.
Barrio Santa Cruz: Wander through the narrow streets of Seville’s historic Jewish quarter, filled with charming shops, cafes, and colourful buildings.
Flamenco Show: Experience the passion and energy of flamenco with a live performance at one of Seville’s many tablaos.
Metropol Parasol: Ascend this modern wooden structure for panoramic views of the city and enjoy a drink at the rooftop bar.
Triana Neighborhood: Cross the Puente de Isabel II to explore this vibrant neighbourhood known for its ceramic workshops, tapas bars, and lively atmosphere.
Torre del Oro: Visit this iconic 13th-century tower, once used as a watchtower and now home to a naval museum.
María Luisa Park: Relax in this expansive park filled with lush greenery, ornamental ponds, and beautiful monuments.
Flamenco Museum: Learn about the history and art of flamenco in this interactive museum, complete with exhibitions and live performances.
Pre-bookable excursions in Seville
Accommodation
If you are looking for a hotel recommendation I suggest the wonderful Barcelo Sevilla Renacimiento which is about a 10-minute taxi to the centre of town and fifteen minutes to Seville Airport.
This large luxury hotel is superb offering first-class facilities including four beautifully appointed restaurants. The exercise facilities include an outdoor swimming pool and a lovely swim-in/out swimming pool. There is also a children’s outdoor pool. On the subject of children, the Barceló Sevilla Renacimiento is located 500 metres from the Isla Magica theme park.
As a special mention, the breakfast here is superb. There is a “Vital Corner” with vitamin juices while the buffet choice is comprehensive including a bakery, meat counter, egg station, fruits, cereals and more. Certainly a breakfast for kings!
One of my social media followers has also recommended a more traditional central hotel which may be your preferred style and location of accommodation. My thanks to Lis van Lynden for suggesting the Corral Del Rey which is located in the centre of Seville in the old quarter of Barrio Alfalfa just five minutes from the Cathedral.
Contact Information
Whilst my time in Seville was short, I left with cherished memories of a magical night in one of Spain’s most enchanting cities. If you get the opportunity to visit during the winter season – take it and don’t forget a carrot for Lucija!
The Dolomites, a UNESCO World Heritage site, are nestled in the northeastern part of Italy, and offer a picturesque landscape that evokes wonder and admiration from every traveller. These majestic mountain ranges, with their jagged peaks and serene valleys, are more than just a sight to behold; they beckon exploration.
I was recently contacted by the specialist tour operator, InfoDolomites, who were keen to introduce their company and the bespoke journeys they curate for travellers exploring the stunning Dolomites region.
If you’re planning your next adventure here, you’re in for a treat! Lets hear what they had to say:
Why Choose the Dolomites?
From the iconic Tre Cime di Lavaredo to the tranquil waters of Lago di Braies, the Dolomites unveil a spectrum of natural spectacles. Stroll through Val Gardena, lose yourself in the vastness of the Seceda Mountain Range, or marvel at the Marmolada Glacier, Europe’s crowning peak in the Dolomites.
Credit @InfoDolomites
Beyond Hiking: Adventure Awaits
While hiking trails are abundant, there’s no shortage of other adrenaline-pumping activities. Feel the rush of the wind as you paraglide over verdant valleys and craggy peaks. Cycling enthusiasts can explore numerous routes, both for mountain biking and road cycling. Then of course, for those visiting in winter, the Dolomites are a skiing paradise!
Credit: Alta Badia/@Alex MolingCredit: Alta Badia/@Alex Moling
Then of course, for those visiting in winter, the Dolomites are a skiing paradise! The Dolomites, with their charming alpine villages and panoramic views, provide the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable Ski Safari Adventure. From the pristine slopes of Alta Badia to the challenging descents of Val Gardena, the Dolomites cater to skiers of all levels. Embark on the legendary Sella Ronda circuit, a ski route that winds its way around the majestic Sella Massif, treating you to a full day of awe-inspiring vistas and heart-pounding descents. The Dolomites, with their diverse offerings and breathtaking landscapes, promise an exhilarating skiing experience that will linger in your memories for years to come.
Credit: Seggiovie Santa Croce/Freddy Planinschek
Credit: InfoDolomites: Giuseppe Zampogna
Your Gateway to Adventure
For the intrepid spirit, the challenging trails of the Sella Group Mountain Range are a must-see. Traverse the rugged paths that wind through alpine meadows, revealing breathtaking panoramas of jagged peaks and verdant valleys. As you ascend, the air becomes crisp, and the thrill of conquering nature’s grandeur is an exhilarating reward for every adventurous soul seeking the pinnacle of alpine exploration.
Those seeking tranquillity will find refuge in the meadows of Puez Odle Nature Park. This pristine sanctuary unfolds like a canvas of serenity, inviting strolls amidst wildflowers and gentle streams. Embrace the harmonious symphony of nature, where the soft rustle of leaves and the distant murmur of flowing water create a soothing melody. Puez Odle beckons those in search of peaceful solitude, providing a haven to reconnect with the simplicity and beauty of the natural world.
Credit: Alta Badia/@Alex Moling
Culture Meets Nature
Amidst these peaks, the chic town of Cortina d’Ampezzo merges rich history, local artistry, and contemporary luxuries, emerging as a must-visit destination. Explore its charming, cobbled streets lined with boutique shops, indulge in delectable Alpine cuisine at quaint cafes, and immerse yourself in the vibrant cultural scene that thrives against the stunning backdrop of the Dolomites.
Whether you’re an avid skier, art enthusiast, or simply seeking a serene mountain escape, Cortina offers a perfect blend of adventure and sophistication.
Wildlife Wonders
The Dolomites are a sanctuary for diverse wildlife. Wander around and you might catch a glimpse of marmots, chamois, and the majestic golden eagle.
Nestled in the northern Italian Dolomites, the Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park is a pristine alpine sanctuary known for its stunning vistas and varied ecosystems. With its breathtaking peaks, verdant valleys, and glistening lakes, this protected area is a refuge for nature lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. The park is well-known for its abundant biodiversity, which includes a wide range of plant and animal species. It is also well-connected by a vast network of paths, which makes it a popular destination for cyclists, hikers, and wildlife enthusiasts.
The Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park is particularly recommended for wildlife spotting, offering an untouched habitat for many species.
Credit: Rottonara M
Dive Into History
The region boasts rich historical sites. Visit the Messner Mountain Museum, dedicated to the art of mountaineering, or explore the ruins of Andraz Castle. The First World War tunnels at Lagazuoi are another must-visit for those into wartime history.
The Dolomites are a melting pot of Italian, Austrian, and Latin cultures. While exploring this remarkable region, you can immerse yourself in the unique South Tyrolean traditions, experience local festivals, and discover the art of South Tyrolean cuisine, where Alpine and Mediterranean influences come together in a delightful fusion.
Enjoy South Tyrolean specialities like ‘Canederli’ and ‘Speck’ and complement your meal with the region’s distinguished wines. Each bite and sip will immerse you in a rich culinary heritage.
Credit: InfoDolomitesCredit: Alta Badia/André Schoenherr
Rest and Relaxation: Accommodation Choices
From luxurious hotels to cosy private accommodations, the Dolomites cater to every traveller. Rural retreats, often set in renovated farmhouses, provide a serene getaway.
For those seeking a deeper connection with nature and local culture, consider private excursions like a guided wildlife-spotting trek or a local culinary workshop.
Credit: Villa Trieste/@Alex Moling
Tailored Experiences
In essence, the Dolomites aren’t just a destination; they’re a myriad of experiences waiting to unfold. Whether you’re an adventure enthusiast, a history buff, or someone seeking cultural immersion, this majestic mountain range promises memories that will last a lifetime.
Each traveller’s journey in the Dolomites is a unique narrative. The region’s versatility allows for experiences shaped to your desires — be it a sunrise vista from a towering peak or a tranquil picnic by a hidden lake.
Credit: Samuele Errico
Discover With Expertise
If you wish to experience the Dolomites but don’t know where to begin your adventure, contact InfoDolomites, a local tour operator deeply rooted in these awe-inspiring mountains.
Their comprehensive understanding of the landscape and connections to premium accommodations allow for tailor-made trips that align with your aspirations, ensuring reliability, expertise, and authenticity.
Embark on Extraordinary Journeys
For information please contact your Dolomites Tour Operator – InfoDolomites
Way back in the early 2000s, when I worked for a specialist Tour Operator, we had a visit from the sales team at the Hotel Jardin Tecina, part of the Fred Olsen Group. They made a presentation showcasing their hotel in the south of La Gomera in the Canary Islands. The captivating visuals of the hotel, its amenities, the scenic golf course, and the picturesque landscapes of La Gomera lingered in my mind for years.
Two decades later, the long-awaited opportunity to visit materialized and so, earlier this year, during a four-night stay, I basked in the warmth of the September sun.
Was it the idyllic experience I had envisioned for years? Let’s find out!
Seamless Travel To La Gomera
I arrived at Tenerife South Airport and after a short transfer, I spent a couple of nights in Los Cristianos acclimatising – well that’s my story and I am sticking to it.
On the morning of my departure from Tenerife, I walked down towards the waterfront in Los Cristianos where I found Los Tarajales Beach. At one end lies the port, welcoming up to seven daily ferries to and from La Gomera. This is where my adventure would truly begin!
One of the many benefits of staying at the Hotel Jardin Tecina is that you can rock up at their little office at the port in Los Cristianos and check in before even setting foot on the island of La Gomera. I was greeted by an authoritative gentleman who jovially shuffled around in the tight space of his kiosk. He issued me with my room key, tagged my bag for a swift delivery on arrival, and gave me a resort map so that I could do my homework en route.
Boarding the Fred Olsen Express Ferry, just 1 minute from the kiosk, involved a seamless ticket and ID check by an attendant sporting a charmingly old-fashioned “Thunderbirds” style uniform. Despite the heat, her formality and welcoming demeanour, topped with a distinctive hat, ensured I boarded with a broad smile.
The 45-minute ferry ride from Los Cristianos to San Sebastian, La Gomera’s capital, was both scenic and comfortable. Independent foot passenger fares range from 45 to 80 euros one way. The ferry, which also caters for cars, boasts a café with refreshments, a sun deck, toilets, air conditioning, and plush seating. For those of you considering travelling with kids and are perhaps a little nervous about navigating multiple legs of a journey, this streamlined process was simple, quick and comfortable.
I always love a ferry and when you are travelling somewhere new, it makes it that much more exciting. It was finally time for me to say hello to the island of La Gomera!
The ferry takes just 45 minutes and delivers you to the heart of San Sebastian de La Gomera, the capital of the island.
If you haven’t arranged transfers in advance, a fleet of waiting taxis offers a convenient option, with fares averaging around 40-45 euros for the 40-minute journey to Hotel Jardin Tecina. During this scenic drive, winding through the mountainous terrain, you’ll be captivated by breathtaking views back to San Sebastian and across to Tenerife, where, on clear days, the majestic Mount Teide stands tall. As a little tip, for the best views, choose a seat on the left side behind the driver!
For those of you interested in hiring a car there are several car hire company kiosks located at the port.
On reflection, especially for a short stay, I think hiring a car at San Sebastian Port is a more cost-effective option than taking a taxi. For a two-day car hire, the cost is about 98 euros, whereas two one-way hotel taxi fares will cost a total of about 90 euros.
As the taxi made its final descent towards the Hotel Jardin Tecina it became apparent to me that, despite my training 20 years earlier, Tecina was actually a very small, charismatic Canarian village. As we passed through the entrance gates, we pulled up at the drop-off and I was greeted by a welcoming bell boy who took my already tagged luggage and ushered me through to reception to undergo some brief and simple administration.
The reception is large with several smartly dressed English-speaking staff waiting at desks behind protective screens, a throwback to those dark days of COVID, to offer you their welcome.
The reception is like a little museum in its own right showcasing exquisite art and basalt rock sculptures to vibrant floral arrangements. With my Antiques Roadshow head-on, one piece caught my attention—an antique Walnut table that once belonged to the main man himself, Fred Olsen. Shipped from the Southern Philippines Archipelago on the Fred Olsen ship, Black Watch, in 1997, it added a touch of history and charm to the surroundings!
The accommodation comprises 434 rooms and suites, categorized into five types. Set amidst the lush gardens, the rooms are set in elegant two-story bungalows and terraced rows, all adorned in pristine white.
Standard rooms have garden views. Comfort Rooms provide side sea views as well as those glorious gardens. For full sea views, you need to stay in a Superior or the more spacious Junior Suite. The Duplex suites, over three floors, cater for families of up to 4 people while a babysitting service is available at an additional cost. There are also some adult-only suites and rooms that cater for disabled guests.
I was staying in a lovely airconditioned Superior room (331). Typically Canarian in style it came with colourful furnishings, terracotta tiled flooring, a large comfy double bed and artwork showcasing the natural beauty of the island, as well as the creative artistry of the local people.
There was tea, coffee, and a minibar along with a large flat-screen TV, plenty of lighting and numerous sockets for all those gadgets we take away nowadays. The Wi-Fi throughout the hotel is excellent. So often hotels get this wrong…not here!
The piece de resistance was the balcony. From here I enjoyed the most magnificent views across the Atlantic Ocean and then down to the village of Playa de Santiago. I would highly recommend spending that little bit extra to get a Superior room on the top floor, you will not be disappointed!
On my first evening, I had a wander around the tropical gardens and got my bearings. Naturally, this kind of strenuous activity brings on a thirst, so I decided to head to the main bar before enjoying dinner.
The Salon Beatriz de Bobdilla serves a variety of beverages, from beers and spirits to cocktails, within its spacious, dark wood-furnished setting. Despite its size, the area was often empty during my visits, except on this occasion, for some lively children’s entertainment, for one child. While this might be expected in high season, the majority of the hotel’s guests during my stay did not seem to be families so I thought this could be improved or relocated. I, along with many others, decided to enjoy my drink on the quieter, outside terrace.
The Bar Piscina is a hub during the day for guests relaxing by the pool to have refreshments and for kids to taste the delicious ice cream. The swim-up bar behind gives you the chance to enjoy a drink while wallowing in the warm pool.
Other Bars in the resort are located at Club Laurel, and there is a small café at the Ahemon Café.
Salon-Beatriz-de-BobdillaPool-Bar
Restaurants
There are five restaurants in total.
The spacious Main Buffet Restaurant, equipped with air conditioning, offered a themed buffet that included a delightful array of Canarian and Gomerian dishes. Throughout my stay, I found the cuisine to be both diverse and of exceptional quality, whether enjoying a hearty breakfast or an evening meal.
There is an L-shaped outside terrace balcony which is considered the prime area to dine due to the views, the fresh air and the quieter atmosphere than in the main buffet restaurant. My tip is to arrive early if you want those seats! Another popular area is at the front of the restaurant in the courtyard. This area is under cover which makes for a nice atmosphere, especially in the evening.
For Lunchtime only there is the Barbacoa, a Barbecue that comes as a supplement for those not on full board.
The former International Restaurant has been renamed to the Gara Restaurant, in honour of the Garajonay National Park. Here, you can start each day with a delicious, varied breakfast including cereals, fruit from the hotel’s garden, fresh juices and hot and cold dishes.
The Tasca Fandango is a Spanish Tapas restaurant where, as I did, you can pay a supplement for the taster menu, or pay as you go with the a la carte. The various dishes served up were delicious and the local wine was a treat. As a tip, I would dine after the sun has gone down, as if you are too early, the tennis court opposite may still be open, and there is nothing worse than a series of Maria Sharapova-esque grunts when you are tucking into your Iberian Ham starter.
Tasca-Fandango-RestaurantTasca-Fandango-Menu
Club Laurel
Taking the lift down to the beach to the Club Laurel is an experience in its own right. The elevator swiftly deposits you in a softly lit tunnel carved into the volcanic rock. As you walk through this mysterious passage, you encounter various visuals highlighting the island’s iconic landmarks. Once outside, it is then just a few metres to the Club Laurel entrance.
By day the Club is busy with its large pool, enticing bar and lunch area. In the evening there are two beautiful atmospheric restaurants, the Italian, La Trattoria, and the Mexican, El Laurel. Both offer a similar option to the Fandango by way of either a taster menu or a la carte. I chose the Italian which was magnificent.
From Club Laurel, it is only a short walk along the coastal path to the delightful little village and beach of Playa de Santiago.
There are several swimming pools to choose from at the Hotel Jardin Tecina, thus ensuring whatever your needs are, they will be met.
In the centre of the hotel is the Main Pool complete with children’s entertainment and a gate to ensure the youngsters are protected from the deeper waters. Raised above the main pool is a second smaller pool where I found couples relaxing partly due to its proximity to the Bar Piscina and Ice Cream! There are plenty of very comfy loungers sprinkled around the pools. Some areas are set back and away from the poolside which are quieter and more chilled. I thought was a nice option for guests.
The Spa pool is for those seeking peace and relaxation, while the Club Laurel pool lends itself to those looking to unwind in sumptuous surroundings with a classy cool vibe.
Pool-and-Swim-Up-BarMain-Family-Swimming-Pool
The Spa Ahemon
A stone’s throw from the Main Pool is the Spa Ahemon. I met the smiling friendly face of Maria at reception, who was keen to present the facilities on offer. To access the spa there is a 10 euro charge for two hours which on the day I visited, was plenty, as it was extremely hot.
There is a chill-out area, steam room, sauna, wet room and toilets all at ground level alongside reception. The Spa offers a variety of Beauty, Reflexology, Massage and Aromatherapy treatments with prices starting at 65 euros for a 50-minute session.
A lift takes you up one floor to the main area which consists of a lovely pool with a waterfall, as well as various places to relax on loungers some of which sit within the water itself. Do take flip flops as the floor around the pool gets incredibly hot from the intense sunshine – burnt trotters on any holiday are not good!
I really enjoyed my time at the Spa Ahemon. The atmosphere was incredibly serene, the facilities excellent and accompanied by the soothing sounds of the waterfall.
The Ahemon SpaThe-Ahemon-Spa
Sport & Fitness
The Hotel Jardin Tecina prides itself on having a wide choice of facilities not only for those who want to relax but also aimed at those looking for a more active holiday.
The Tennis centre was particularly impressive with a wide range of artificial courts. I met a friendly Hungarian Tennis coach who advised that the cost to play was 6 euros for an hour or if you wanted her coaching, then it was 50 euros for a one-on-one lesson. For those who enjoy their racquet sports, there are also squash, volleyball, table tennis and padel courts. There is even a giant chess set for the more sedate activity!
The large gymnasium on site is fully equipped with a huge range of cardio machines as well as weights and floor areas for stretching and group exercises which include yoga.
Tennis CentreChess and Table TennisGymnasium
Tecina Golf
La Gomera’s only golf course, Tecina Golf, is located 300 metres from the front entrance of the hotel. Guests booking tees will be picked up for the short transfer to the course. I however chose to walk past the hotel’s banana plantation to the main clubhouse where Maria and her lovely welcoming team greeted me.
So often golf courses are stuffy but not here. The team are on hand to help you make the most of your time at this beautiful course.
There are various offers for multiple rounds but for a single round of 18 holes, the cost is 65 euros with the hire of clubs from 24 euros. A buggy is 36 euros and, in my opinion, much needed due to the at times hilly nature of the terrain.
The course itself is stunning with palm trees, jacaranda, cacti and numerous flowering shrubs lining the course and walkways. The 10th hole is the signature hole with the lush fairway and green backing onto what appears to be a deep dark mountain ravine and the graveyard of many a golf ball. It was here I took a little time out to sit and take in the views and also watch the numerous birds coming and going, in particular a kestrel that hovered overhead before plummeting into the ravine in search of prey.
Back at the clubhouse, there is a driving range, a practice putting green, a delightful little golf shop and a bar with an outside terrace. I was particularly taken by the enormous bunch of bananas hanging by the main entrance. Simply pull off a couple and take them out onto the course – much healthier than a Mars Bar!
The hotel gift shop stocks a range of nautical-themed clothing, as well as snacks, bathroom essentials, and gifts and souvenirs relating to both the hotel and the island.
I was taken by a lobster kitchen hook and duly purchased it. A few days later at Tenerife Airport, this iron hook was picked up in my hand luggage at the security check as the lady thought I had a live crayfish in my hand luggage. Much to her relief and my amusement I was able to prove my innocence and bring the snappy little gift back home! Seeing my lobster on the scanning screen was one of the funnier moments I have endured at an international airport!
Library
Opposite the gift shop, there is a small library that has a wide choice of books which guests can enjoy and return during their stay. This is a lovely little addition to those who may have forgotten to bring their holiday book read with them!
The BoutiqueThe-Library
The Hotel Jardin Tecina Gardens
One of the most impressive elements of the Hotel Jardin Tecina and the Golf Course is, as the name would suggest, the tropical gardens. Take a little time to enjoy the nature here as it’s very special. The hotel even offers tours so you can discover and identify some of the many species of plants that thrive in the rich soil and tropical climate here in La Gomera.
Species include the Canary Islands dragon tree, the Canarian Palm Tree, the Phoenician juniper, the Elefant feet yuca, the Garden Croton, the Pygmy date palm and the Livistona fan-palm. Plus there are the usual tropical plants such as Hibiscus, Boungainvillea and scented herbs at every corner.
At the Eco Finca Tecina down behind the Club Laurel you can learn about how the hotel cares for the gardens and plants, producing, for their dining tables, fruits and vegetables such as papaya, lettuce, cabbage, aubergine, moringa and, artichokes.
GardensGardens
In Summary
The simple elegance of the hotel combined with excellent food, and a fabulous spa amongst lush tropical gardens are what make the Hotel Jardin Tecina very special. It remains a hidden gem, and I guess that is also part of its appeal, as is the unspoilt nature of La Gomera – an island that has not been ruined by commercialism or excess.
For those of you looking for an island retreat not far from home, I highly recommend a visit to the Hotel Jardin Tecina and Tecina Golf on La Gomera – it delivers what every holiday should – enjoyment and relaxation – just don’t leave it 20 years to visit. Go now and have the most incredible restful and enjoyable stay!
Amid Tenerife’s bustling tourism, it’s interesting to consider that many visitors will notice the island of La Gomera, just 45 km across the Atlantic Ocean. However, only a handful seize the opportunity to embark on the 45-minute ferry journey, unlocking the door to the extraordinary natural wonders that this little island holds. Amidst the vast annual influx to Tenerife, La Gomera remains a hidden treasure waiting to be explored.
La Gomera is the second smallest of the Canary Islands. It is renowned for its spectacular nature and wildlife as well as being a magnet for hikers and walkers who come to the island to follow the many trails and routes that crisscross the island. For those looking for a more relaxing stay, the sandy black beaches entice the sun worshippers, while the main town of San Sebastian offers colourful architecture, history, local life, intimate restaurants, cafes and some local retail therapy.
In addition to its captivating landscapes, La Gomera provides an unparalleled opportunity to witness marine life in its natural habitat through numerous dolphin and whale-watching tours. The crystal-clear waters around La Gomera harbour a rich biodiversity, making these tours an incredible experience for nature enthusiasts.
Eager to explore this little-known island, and fulfilling a long-standing desire, I recently took a trip to La Gomera where the art of whistling is an age-old means of communication.
Time to find out what I discovered… both visually and audibly!
Best Time To Visit La Gomera
La Gomera boasts a subtropical year-round climate, offering consistently mild temperatures. August and September stand out as the warmest months, with temperatures ranging from the mid to high 20s.
During my visit in September, I encountered a fascinating weather phenomenon — a day could embody all four seasons. Coastal areas sweltered in the heat, yet venturing inland revealed cooler temperatures, clouds, and occasional rain.
While mist occasionally obscured the views from the very top of the island, the silver lining was the speed of the clouds. If you hang around, you’ll soon witness their passing, unveiling the breathtaking vistas of La Gomera and in the distance Tenerife.
Getting to La Gomera
Travelling from Tenerife to La Gomera is effortlessly convenient. Opting for the Fred Olsen Express Ferry, a swift 45-minute journey departs from Los Cristianos port, Tenerife, and lands directly in San Sebastian, the capital of La Gomera.
Two reputable companies, Naviera Armas and Fred Olsen Express, operate the service, offering up to seven daily ferries, thus providing flexibility for your schedule. The ferry accommodates both foot passengers, ideal for day-trippers, and vehicles, whether rented in Tenerife or on-site in La Gomera. Consider renting a car at the San Sebastian port, as taxis tend to be pricey.
Onboard amenities include a café with refreshments, pastries, and snacks, along with toilets and spacious, air-conditioned seating. While the free wifi can be frustratingly intermittent, bilingual announcements (Spanish and English) keep passengers informed. A small deck area at the rear of the ferry offers limited seating for those not concerned about their hairstyle! For foot passengers, one-way fares range from £45 to £80 per person.
The-Fred-Olsen-ExpressFred-Olsen-Express-Deck
San Sebastián de La Gomera
I arrived on the East Coast at the island’s capital, San Sebastián de La Gomera, a town, like many on the island, that very much reflects the island’s Maritime history.
A brief walk of just under 400 yards lands you in the heart of Constitution Square, where I couldn’t help but smile at a group of shall we say, mature gentlemen, sitting beneath a majestic Indian Laurel Ficus Tree. They were leisurely sipping coffee, perusing newspapers, and occasionally flailing their arms whilst putting the world to rights. Fast forward 25 years and I reckon that might just be me!
From Constitution Square I wandered just a few steps into the Torre del Conde Park, where one of the most recognisable landmarks and the oldest building on the island is located – the Torre del Conde. This gothic, 15th-century, former military fortress stands alone in the heart of the park. Tours are available of the Tower as well as the park that is home to several monuments and tributes.
Not far from Torre del Conde Park in the Avenida de Colón is the small Municipal Market of San Sebastián de La Gomera. Here you can purchase local aperitifs or gastronomy products typical of the island.
San Sebastian de La Gomera is perhaps most famous for being the last stop that Christopher Columbus made before embarking on his historic journey to America. The Casa de Colón is alleged to be the house where he spent the last night before his epic trip. Here there is a collection of pottery from the South American Chimú people, which is significant as it is likely to be the type of art that he would have encountered on his arrival in the new world!
The Archaeological Museum of La Gomera is worth a visit if you are interested in the island’s unusual landscapes, while a short walk will bring you to the town’s main church, the lovely Iglesia De La Asunción.
From the church take a stroll along the pedestrianised, Calle Real. This is the main shopping area and home to a variety of traditional shops selling produce, souvenirs, clothes and jewellery. You are sure to see the busy Colon Restaurant as you approach Constitution Square. This is a great stop for lunch and a spot of people-watching… and listening!
If you are staying in San Sebastian de La Gomera then you will also be interested to know that just a stone’s throw from Constitution Square and across the road is the Playa de San Sebastián beach. This 600-metre-long stretch of Volcanic sand is popular for sun worshippers and for families and children to play a variety of sports.
I was staying on the island’s south coast, 40 minutes from San Sebastian de La Gomera, at the wonderful 4* Hotel Jardin Tecina & Tecina Golf. It was so wonderful I have written a blog of its own to showcase this beautiful hotel!
The hotel is perched high above the village of Playa de Santiago where at the far extreme is a statue of the Pescador de Playa de Santiago, for this was once a thriving fishing village. This delightful little village is set around a black sandy bay with a little harbour full of fishing boats, excursion vessels offering kayaking, snorkelling, diving trips and a jetty to receive some of the smaller ferries from further afield.
The village itself, like San Sebastian, has a large open square where locals sit under another of those giant mushroom-shaped Ficus Trees and children kick a football around. Off the main square, there are several pretty little streets with pastel-coloured houses and a couple of souvenir shops, and cafes.
There were three places here that grabbed my attention for authenticity and charm.
The Art Studio is a rustic building and home to a range of antiques, jewellery, modern creative art and paintings. It was well worth a look around and to my enjoyment, it was also home to Mila the Cat who was asleep in the greeting card section and Nana The Dog who was on the sofa.
Next to the Art Studio is the Bar El Tarajal, an old beach bar, ideal for a sundowner overlooking the sea or sitting in their little courtyard garden. It’s not luxury but it’s real, and it’s local, and it’s what I love about these types of finds in little villages in faraway places…. it just had character!
After a drink head to the incredible La Cuevita Restaurant, which is well worth a visit for its traditional Canarian Cuisine and unique setting. Located next to the harbour and carved into the base of the black volcanic cliffs this establishment was founded in 1984 and just oozes charm and history. It was here that the fisherman used to bring their catch to their waiting wives who then salted it and prepared it for sale. If you want authentic La Gomera cooking in a unique magically lit, cave setting then you need to visit, La Cuevita! Local ingredients might include Almogrote, a paste made with hard cheese, pepper, garlic and olive oil, or palm honey, made using sugarcane juice and palm tree sap.
In February or March, normally on Ash Wednesday the largest carnival takes place around Playa Santiago and Alajeró. The theme changes from year to year and involves a parade, a party in the main square and then the burning of a Sardine Shaped Figure – a religious act symbolising the farewell to the winter season while looking forward to the year ahead.
Embarking on a solo adventure from the Hotel Jardin Tecina in the South, I opted for the freedom of a two-day car rental at 98 euros. I was eager to explore La Gomera at my own pace and unburdened by time constraints, so I made a plan over breakfast that morning!
Day one involved a journey from Playa Santiago to the captivating Mirador de Igualero, weaving through El Cercada, Chipude, Las Hayas, Arure, and the enchanting Valle Gran Rey on the Western coastline.
Returning, I journeyed to the island’s heart, reaching La Laguna Grande in the famed Parque Nacional de Garajonay.
It was a lot of driving but as you will discover it was worth every hairpin bend!
The Mirador de Igualero
My adventure kicked off at the breathtaking Mirador de Igualero. In La Gomera, surprises unfold around every corner, marked by captivating viewpoints known as Miradors. Don’t miss them!
Perched at an altitude of 1321m, this Mirador unveils dramatic scenery, from lush green ravines to the deep azure sea. The sole structure, Ermita de San Francisco de Asís chapel, shares space with a monument honouring Silbo Gomero, the unique whistling language of La Gomera and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage.
This extraordinary tradition, once employed for communication across gorges and ravines, persists as a fascinating aspect of local culture. If you catch wind of distant whistles and responses, you might just find yourself the subject of conversation!
Make sure to include the charming towns of Chipude and El Cercada in your itinerary; both offer tranquil streets and a serene ambience. Chipude boasts the 16th-century Iglesia Virgen de la Candelaria Church and the iconic Fortaleza de Chipude, a 1,200-meter-high mountain renowned among hikers. Engage in the local viticulture with three vineyards in La Gomera, including one in Chipude.
El Cercada, though smaller, is famed for its ceramics, so be sure to visit its quaint pottery shops. Next on the journey is Arure, where an elusive waterfall beckons eager hikers.
As the scenery transitions from lush greenery to dark volcanic rock, breathtaking views unfold, making the route from Arure to Valle Gran Rey a highlight of the island’s beauty and very much a highlight of my visit to La Gomera. This road was like a scene from a Bond movie – I loved it!
The landscape continued to change and amaze me as I made a stop at the Mirador de la Curva del Queso, which translates to the Mirador of the Curve of the Cheese.
This captivating viewpoint along the road to Playa la Calera, beside Barranco del Valle Gran Rey, showcases once again the incredible natural scenery — from its rugged terrain to winding roads and lush valleys.
I took a deep breath here to savour the view whilst enjoying a Canarian banana, although it has to be said I kind of wish it was a simple cheese sandwich. I mean, after all, I was on the Curve of the Cheese!
My next destination was supposed to be the coast, but once again, the allure of the island and the enchanting Upper Valley captivated me at Casa de la Seda. The volcanic rock scenery began to transition once again into lush green vegetation.
This charming village offered breathtaking views of the mountains, stepped farm terraces, palm groves, vibrant-coloured houses, tropical plants, and the brilliant blue sea in the distance.
I couldn’t resist pausing for a photo, and once again savouring my surroundings.
Casa-La-SedaCasa-La-Seda-La-Gomera
Valle Gran Rey
Before my visit, I thought Valle Gran Rey was just another coastal town, but little did I know, that it’s actually made up of a patchwork of unique villages all of which offer the visitor something a little different. In its heyday, Valle Gran Rey was a Hippy haven in the ’70s and ’80s, attracting free spirits who embraced a laid-back life of peace, nature, and music.
La Playa boasts the renowned Playa del Ingles beach, where clothing is optional – so be prepared for unexpected sights! Before you ask, no I didn’t.
Little La Calera features a lovely beach backed by a promenade with charming eateries, hotels, and apartments.
La Puntilla, adorned with hotels and shops, embraces the lingering hippy style and hosts the rather fabulous Hautacuperche statue.
Borbalan is a mix of apartments, private accommodations, and citrus plantations.
Vueltas, the harbour, offers a tiny beach, Playa de Vueltas.
Valle Gran Rey attracts nature lovers, hikers, and those seeking a tranquil escape. Regular sunset beach parties with retro vibes, reminiscent of the ’70s and ’80s, still thrive. The longer I spent in Valle Gran Rey the more I enjoyed it… I guess deep down I have always been a free spirit and a traveller so it was no surprise it felt like home.
From Valle Del Rey, I retraced my steps beyond Arure before veering right, setting course for one of La Gomera’s iconic gems – the Garajonay National Park at the heart of this circular island.
Exploring Garajonay National Park feels like tackling an island-sized puzzle – it spans a third of La Gomera, which is 24 km across!
The main roads are surprisingly good, but brace yourself for hairpin bends that might leave you holding your breath. Venture off the main routes, and you might encounter narrow, tree-lined roads that can get slippery, especially up high with the regular rain and clouds.
For those who want to head to the very top of La Gomera, park at Los Pajaritos or El Contadero and take a leisurely stroll up to Alto de Garajonay, the island’s crown at 1487 meters.
The park’s pièce de résistance is its diverse flora and fauna, dominated by ubiquitous laurel trees. Hikers are in for a treat with an array of circular and linear trails and I would recommend taking a map and getting a weather update at one of the information centres as mountain weather can change in a flash.
A worthwhile pitstop is at La Laguna Grande, where you can take refreshments and gather information on local trails and conditions. While trying to understand the rather odd wooden donkeys and climbing frames in the children’s area, I was treated to a Kestrel show – these birds are common across the island and this one was making strategic dives into the long grass, perhaps on the hunt for a frog or a rodent. This was nature’s own amusement park and far more entertaining than those donkeys!
Now it was during this stop that I finally got to experience an island tradition that I was waiting for. As I ordered a coffee in my rather appalling Spanish, the bartender and the kitchen staff in the next room started whistling to each other…. now I am not normally one to be suspicious, but I could not help but wonder if they were sharing a joke about my linguistic skills… I guess I will never know!
From the heart of Garojonay National Park, it was time for me to head back to my hotel in the south. However, I knew my day of incredible scenery was not over as I had read about the Mirador de los Roches which I would pass on my route down.
Undoubtedly one of the island’s finest viewpoints, offering a panoramic display of three prominent rock formations: Roque Agando, Roque Ojila, and Roque La Zarzita. With clouds visibly drifting right over my head, I planned to return for another glimpse on a clearer day.
Alone in the mountainous terrain, surrounded by clouds, there was a magical quality to the place. Seated on the stone wall, I reflected on my day exploring the South, West, and Centre of La Gomera.
Could the upcoming exploration of the North possibly surpass today? Let’s find out!
With time precious I hate going back over old ground and so at breakfast, I considered my options. I love planning a road trip over breakfast. Few things thrill me more than preparing for an adventure, maybe that’s why I do what I do!
Today’s route led me along the El Cedro path to the Hermigua Valley, initially bypassing it. I was to continue through Agulo for an early stop at the iconic Mirador de Abrante. Next up was to be Vallehermoso in the Northwest, before circling back to Hermigua.
The weather was superb, well on the coast it was, so I decided to take the shortcut across the island. It made perfect sense but it did involve me going off-piste on one of those allegedly scary roads – the 6km long El Cedro route….
As the sun rose, I ascended into the mountains. Approaching the Mirador de Los Roques, there was rain, accompanied by swirling clouds. Faced with the choice of tackling the narrower El Cedro route, or reverting to the longer, familiar, safer route, I reminded myself it was just 6 km, it was early so no one was around and…. that life is for living.
This detour exposed me to those wet, slippery narrow mountain roads with minimal barriers. The silver lining, if you will, was the absence of cars or people, and the cloud cover obscured the cliff edges – basically, I could not see where I was going! Taking utmost caution, I navigated the route before rejoining the main road, passing through Hermigua and Agulo, and eventually tackling another narrow road leading to the renowned Mirador De Abrante.
Mirador De Abrante
I received a handy tip about travelling to the Mirador de Abrante: arrive early as navigating the 2km long road that approaches the Mirador when the many tour buses start arriving is not much fun!
The main reason people come here is for the iconic glass skywalk, which stands 625 metres above sea level. I was the first to arrive that day and met the only guy there, the manager who was washing the floor. He did not speak English, only German and Spanish – it’s strange but I always like that – why should the world speak English! He offered me a book on…. goats in German, which I politely declined. I am sure there was more to this book than goats but it did make me chuckle!
La Gomera’s weather greeted me with clouds, obstructing the skywalk’s panoramic views so I decided to take my time and explore a rather uninspiring information area. Outside the red iron oxide earth and sparse vegetation were far more of interest to me.
As groups of lively, not to mention noisy, Italians and Spaniards arrived, the weather changed, and slowly the magnificent Mount Teide in Tenerife came into view. I tentatively walked out onto the skywalk and enjoyed this truly wonderful experience which is FREE to visitors, unlike the book on goats.
About a kilometre from the skywalk is a popular restaurant where you can enjoy traditional Canarian dishes and at certain times, Silbo whistling demonstrations.
Mirador-de-Abrante-La-GomeraMirador-de-Abrante
Mirador del Almendrillo
The rest of my day was visiting places where, let’s be honest I was not expecting a great deal but they turned out to be hidden gems.
En route to my next stop of Vallehermoso in the northwest of the island, I stopped off at the Mirador del Almendrillo. Whilst this yet again provided wonderful views it also introduced me to an animal I was hoping to find! The giant La Gomera Lizard.
There I was minding my own business eating yet another Canarian banana when I heard this rustling in the bushes below. I thought given the loud noise it may be a cat or a dog but upon peering over the railing it was a black lizard with a silver head measuring about 45 cm in length. I am like a child when I see any wildlife so I took a photo of him as he basked in the sunshine. It was then however that I decided to move on, just in case Mum or Dad arrived!
Arriving at Vallehermoso, parking proved to be a challenge but finally, I found a spot just behind the Plaza de la Constitución. This is the town’s central square where I got my bearings and enjoyed a coffee and a pastry at the rather lovely “Cafetería Lucía Cosas de Verdad”. I was even joined by the local cat who appeared to know everyone in the town – it’s that kind of place.
The pretty streets, Town Hall, the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista Church, the botanical gardens and its beautiful mountain backdrop made the town of Vallehermoso a pleasant surprise. I loved its authenticity…. this was yet more of the real La Gomera and I could have stayed on that terrace people, and cat, watching all day!
Just as a side note the nearby rock formation known as Roque Cano is very popular with experienced hikers. One trail that starts in Vallehermoso is 12km in length and is very popular. A word of warning though – it is not for the faint-hearted and will require ropes and equipment to conquer!
Next up I turned around and headed back towards the town of Agulo! En route, I stopped, just after exiting a tunnel so you must make a quick decision to pull over, at the Mirador de la Punta. Once again there were, as you can see here, lovely views across the Hermigua Valley to the sea and Tenerife in the distance.
Mirador-de-la-Punta
Agulo
The pretty village of Agulo is located on a hill and is home to a central square, delightful cobbled streets and white houses with red-tiled roofs. All around are banana plantations which, as you have probably guessed, are a staple diet here in La Gomera.
Art lovers should take a trip to the Casa del Pintor José Aguiar, which is home to one of La Gomera’s, and Spain’s finest painters of the 20th century.
Passing through Agulo leads you to the coast and the Pescante de Hermigua.
Agulo-La-Gomera
Pescante de Hermigua
My last stop in La Gomera was one of the most surprising.
Just a handful of minutes east of Agulo is the Playa Hermigua beach which is known for being home to the Pescante de Hermigua. I parked on the beach and took a stroll.
The area is known for the pillar-like structures at the far end of the beach which were built at the end of the 19th and start of the 20th century. They were a docking system, known as a “Davit” for lowering exported agricultural produce into ships. I found them eerily calming and very much a nod to the island’s maritime history.
The beach here has large boulders and a very strong current so not a place to swim. There is also a natural pool bathing area – the Piscinas Naturais, but again, I would not recommend it.
The pretty little village is set back from the beach. In between are banana plantations with once again, my mate, the little Kestrel hovering overhead – I think he was following me!
I liked it here – it’s a little rough around the edges and a gritty kind of place. A couple of empty buildings on the beach with graffiti make you feel as if it’s stuck in time – I liked that as I was the only person on the beach marvelling at these industrial pillars which are backed by mountains and Mount Teide in the distance.
The Pescante de Hermigua were a fabulous end to yet another magical day of exploration!
La Gomera was always on my bucket list even before bucket lists were invented however it took me 20 years to visit. I am so pleased I finally made it as I enjoyed my four days on the island more than I could ever have imagined.
The nature, the mountains, the calm, the whistling locals and the cuisine are just a few factors but above all, it was the authenticity of this island that has not been ruined by commercialism or greed. It’s a special place, so if you go, just make sure you keep it that way!
This blog covers the island but another ingredient as to why I enjoyed my stay so much was my hotel and for that, you will need to visit my blog about the wonderful Hotel Jardin Tecina and Tecina Golf.
More Information
For more information, visit the La Gomera Tourist Office website or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.
Earlier this year, I sought solace away from the crowds, craving a lavish getaway on the serene North Coast of Tenerife.
I had the privilege of exploring the refined charms of Puerto de La Cruz, whilst indulging in a three-night stay at the exquisite Hotel Botanico & The Oriental Spa Garden. Here, serenity reigns supreme, offering a sophisticated oasis far removed from the bustling south.
Let’s dive right into my review of this extraordinary hotel!
Location
The Hotel Botanico is just 88 km from Tenerife South Airport with transfers taking about 1 hour, while Tenerife North Airport is a mere 28 km away, taking just 25 minutes.
The hotel boasts a prime location, just a 2-minute stroll from the renowned Jardin Botanico, Puerto de la Cruz’s tropical gardens and two miles away from Loro Parque, a wildlife sanctuary owned by the hotel’s German proprietors.
Across from the hotel, you can discover charming restaurants, boutiques, and traditional bars with live musical entertainment. A pleasant 15-minute downhill walk leads to Puerto de la Cruz, featuring a scenic coastal promenade, inviting beaches, diverse activities, and a wealth of dining and shopping options.
A taxi will take you back up to the Hotel Botanico in less than 10 minutes and will cost no more than 5 euros. Alternatively, if you time it right, the hotel offers a scheduled free shuttle service in the most luxurious of minibuses.
A member of the Leading Hotels of the World, the Hotel Botanico is simply sublime, with over 25,000 square metres of lush, tropical, well-managed gardens.
From the moment you pull up at the entrance, you know you are in for a first-class level of service. I was greeted by an immaculately turned-out porter who took my luggage and swiftly ushered me through to a welcoming front reception desk where I was offered a cool refreshing glass of fruit juice. Having travelled up from the south of the island it was just what the doctor ordered. I could now relax!
The reception area is graced with a curated selection of elegant local and international artwork, prominently featuring Thai masterpieces from the owner’s private collection. Taking centre stage is a meticulously crafted artificial tree adorned with glass crystals, suspended over a massive Brazilian amethyst, weighing over 400kg. The ever-changing jellyfish tank adds an enchanting touch to the reception’s ambience.
With check-in formalities completed, I was taken to my room where I was given an overview of its facilities.
My room was a Double Superior Teide Room meaning that on a clear day, I should see Tenerife’s most iconic natural sight, Mount Teide. Sadly, the clouds kept her hidden, but I knew she was there looking over me!
There was ample lighting throughout the room and many of the walls were adorned with beautiful, limited-edition prints of tropical birds such as Macaws, Parrots, and Canaries – a nod once again to the owner’s passion for nature and wildlife.
Furnished in largely red and white, there was a very comfortable bed, soft pillows, a large sofa, two single chairs, and a desk housing a Krups Coffee machine, alongside bottles of water and a bowl of fruit. For those interested in TV on your holiday… I am not, there is a huge free-standing flat-screen TV offering a wide choice of international channels that can be swung around to suit your location!
A large balcony boasted chairs, a table, and a plush lounger complete with towels, creating a perfect retreat. To add to the tranquil ambience the sounds of tropical birds filled the air.
The bathroom offered his and hers basin, a shower, a separate toilet and bide, a bath, and a small changing area with a safe and ample wardrobe space. The bathroom amenities included Body Lotions, Shower Gels, and Shampoos all from the White Company as well as well-sized dressing gowns and slippers.
The essence of this room was light, airy, quiet, and spacious yet with an understated elegance. I swear as a youngster my flat was smaller than this fabulous room!
Just as a little side note, later in my stay I got a sneak preview of the new Superior Rooms, and they are stunning …. if you are planning a visit, I would recommend them!
The main outdoor pool is complemented by beautiful landscaping, including lush gardens and tropical foliage, creating a serene and inviting atmosphere. The pool is a generous size, providing ample space for guests to swim or relax and the area includes comfortable lounge chairs, umbrellas, and cabanas.
For families, there is a small children’s pool just behind the main pool, which is shallow and ideal for kids to play.
There are poolside services at Bar Palmera, including attendants offering refreshments and snacks. During the day it is a great place to take breakfast or lunch. This friendly welcoming poolside bar is a lovely area for guests to enjoy cocktails while basking in the sun.
The Main Bar Hall is off the reception with comfortable seating areas to relax and enjoy cocktails, spirits, beers, or teas and coffees accompanied by homemade cakes and pastries.
Five times a week there are musical entertainments ranging from Flamenco, Jazz, Spanish Dancing, and more. The most popular nights are on Fridays and Saturdays when it can be very busy between 20:00 and midnight.
This area was very peaceful during the day, and I enjoyed an hour or two just relaxing and watching the guests and hotel staff going about their business.
The-Bar-Hall-Hotel-BotanicoThe-Bar-Hall-Seating
There are four restaurants at the Hotel Botanico:
Food Market This is the main buffet restaurant where breakfast is served from 07:30. Choices on offer include cereals, fruits, freshly cooked eggs, pastries, cold meats, and cheese. Fruit juice teas and coffees are available via both a machine and from a table service. I found the breakfast to be excellent. It was never too rushed or too busy and as a minor point of detail, the chairs had rubber bases on the legs, meaning there was very little noise. The difference as always, is in the detail!
The Oriental If you are looking for a special dinner, then for some of the finest Oriental haute cuisine served in the most elegant and sophisticated surroundings, try the Oriental. The food from the Thai kitchen is of the very highest quality.
La Parrilla Offering Spanish cuisine, La Parrilla features a choice of meat and fish dishes flavoured with local spices and fresh vegetables from the hotel’s very own vegetable and herb garden.
Il Pappagallo If you are partial to a very Italian experience then how about Il Pappagallo, offering Classic Mediterranean cuisine and fine wines while enjoying some of the best views of the coast and Puerto de la Cruz?
Inspired throughout by Asian influences the multi-award-winning Oriental Spa Garden is quite superb. The main outdoor and indoor pools within the Spa are free for guests and provide an area to fully unwind.
Various packages are on offer that give you the chance to indulge in a choice of rituals including such treatments as a body wrap, body peeling, and massage. These treatment packages start at 180 euros.
Individual massages are available to book and are highly recommended. Prices start at 55 euros for a 25-minute session.
The Spa menu is considerable, so whilst I have highlighted just a couple of options, I have only touched the surface of what is available in this most elegant and sophisticated setting!
The gymnasium is located within the spa and is available to all guests free of charge. There is a choice of high-standard equipment for cardio exercises as well as weights and mats for stretching.
A room also provides an area for individual or group sessions, and on specific dates in the year, the Spa runs yoga retreats that may be of interest.
For something a little more relaxing there is a Library and Games room, where you can unwind with a book or play a game of pool on one of the two billiard tables available.
There are also tennis courts that can be pre-booked by the hour, table tennis and a 5,000 square metre golf driving range, putting green, and a practice bunker. Here you can brush up on your techniques before hitting the island’s many excellent golf courses.
One of the most attractive features of this lovely hotel is the gardens. The ponds/lakes are home to black swans, turtles and koi carp while the subtropical gardens are alive with butterflies and birds. There are a number of areas where you can sit and relax and just enjoy the peace and nature.
There is also a small Bonzai tree corner which in comparison to the majestic gardens was, it must be said, a little disappointing.
The Hotel Botanico and the Oriental Spa Garden is an exquisite hotel where the cuisine is divine, the spa is world-class, and the décor and service are charmingly old-fashioned. This is a hotel where unwinding comes as standard and all amongst the backdrop of beautiful nature and gardens.
I fell in love with the delights of the North Coast of Tenerife due to its sheer beauty and authenticity and my stay at the Hotel Botanico & Oriental Spa Garden was the perfect accompaniment.
The largest of Spain’s seven Canary Islands, Tenerife is today perhaps best known for its all-year-round sunshine, party scene, all-inclusive hotels, and family theme parks. However, in recent years it has often been said that, like Ibiza, there is so much more to it than British fry-ups, Happy Hours, and ear-shattering Karaoke. It had been a few years since I was on the island of Eternal Spring, a nod to its year-round mild climate, so I decided to take the 4-hour flight from London Gatwick to the island’s Southern Aeropuerto de Tenerife Sur, from where I would take a tour clockwise around the island but focusing my stay on the authentic Tenerife, and in particular the largely unspoilt north coast.
Getting Around The Authentic Tenerife
There are various ways to get around Tenerife with the most popular being hiring your own car or pre-arranging an airport-to-resort transfer. I however decided to give the local buses a try. Operated by a company called TITSA, they provide an excellent service at very reasonable prices.
One word of caution… you will, when out and about, most certainly need a decent smartphone and Wi-Fi, as you will regularly need to access the TITSA app for timetables, guidance, and prices.
Puerto de Santiago
I was to start my Tenerife tour with an overnight stay at the Barcelo Santiago Hotel in the small town of Puerto de Santiago which is located on the southwest coast of the island. From here I could venture around the western peninsular and then along the North coast.
Puerto de Santiago is how I remembered Tenerife. Mini supermarkets, kiosks selling excursions, restaurants catering to the British and bars full of expats watching sports or enjoying late-night tribute bands.
Beaches in this area are black with the small Playa Chica, the most popular. The coastal walk connecting Los Gigantes to the North and Playa de la Arena to the South is worth the stroll for the stunning views and magical sunsets.
Whilst Puerto de Santiago was not the reason I came to Tenerife I did enjoy my short stay. I sat by the pool, watched English football, drank beer and partied with the locals at the friendly Sunset Bar – it’s what millions of British visitors come to Tenerife for…. but on this occasion, I was seeking the authentic Tenerife, so with a sore head and tired eyes I was soon on the road.
Sunset Bar, Puerto de Santiago, TenerifeBarcelo Santiago Pool, TenerifeBarcelo Santiago, Tenerife
Los Gigantes
A short bus journey or even a 20-minute walk north, will bring you to Los Gigantes. These 800-metre-high, volcanic, basalt rock formations are one of the island’s most dramatic natural sights and a visit here is a must!
From the town of Los Gigantes, you can walk uphill to the best vantage point at Mirador Archipenque. Here there is a little cafe where you can enjoy a drink and a snack while marvelling at some of the best views on the island.
The town of Los Gigantes has retained its charm and is a popular stop for tourists looking to enjoy its delightful harbour and enticing cafes and restaurants.
Many of the resorts in western Tenerife offer visitors the chance to get out and witness a variety of marine mammals in the wild. Between November and early March, it is a great time to watch Humpback whales passing on their migration, whilst orcas and sperm whales visit in the spring. Throughout the year you can often spot dolphins and pilot whales.
Los Gigantes, Tenerife
Masca
From Los Gigantes, I took the bus towards Santiago de Teide before changing on to the 355 towards a little village in the Teno mountains called Masca. So many local people had recommended I visit for the vibrant nature, spectacular scenery and its mystery. Legend has it that the Masca Valley was once a hideout for pirates.
If you plan to self-drive, caution should be taken as the narrow road is not for the faint-hearted due to the many hairpin bends and steep drops. I would recommend you go early before the organised bus excursions arrive. Not only will your time in Masca be more peaceful but the journey won’t feel so scary.
Hiking is popular here with sensational views of mountains, forests, and waterfalls. The village offers a choice of cosy restaurants to restock the energy levels before venturing into the wild.
The clear night sky is popular with stargazers who are drawn to this fabulous little Canarian village which if you can pluck up the courage for the journey, is worth every second!
Garachico
Continuing around the island my next stop was Tenerife’s first port and one of the oldest villages in the Canary Islands, the village of Garachico.
Dating back to the 15th century the old town is a delight with its little squares, picturesque seafront, and narrow streets home to some of the best preserved historical and cultural attractions in all of the Canaries.
In an area known as El Caleton, there is the San Miguel Castle and out to sea the rock of Garachico which is a symbol of the Garachico volcanic eruption of 1706.
Nearby I would recommend a visit to La Caleta de Interián, the Chinyero volcano and the cliffs at La Culata.
La Orotava
From Garachico, you follow the north coast of Tenerife passing through Icod de Los Vinos before arriving at La Orotava. This pretty village with its well-preserved historic centre, features cobbled streets, splendid manor houses, and exquisite gardens. It also gives you the chance to not only experience a gorgeous Canarian town but to also learn about the island’s history with museums like the Casa Lercaro.
Casa de Los Balcones is a historic mansion and cultural landmark. Built in the 17th century, this Canarian-style house is renowned for its traditional architecture, featuring wooden balconies, intricate wrought-iron railings, and a central courtyard adorned with colourful tiles. It serves as both a museum and a handicraft centre, showcasing the art, history, and craftsmanship of the Canary Islands.
The little town itself is full of shops and cafes all overlooking Puerto de la Cruz down below. I particularly enjoyed the Café, Gardens, Bandstand, and views from the Plaza de la Constitucion.
Casa de Los Balcones, la OrotavaLa Orotava, ButchersLa Orotava Graffiti
Puerto De la Cruz
From La Orotava, it’s just a hop, skip, and jump across to the former fishing village of Puerto de la Cruz, where I was fortunate to stay for three nights at the magnificent Hotel Botanico & The Oriental Spa Garden. This member of the Leading Hotels of the World offers world-class service, sumptuous accommodation, and an award-winning oriental spa, all nestled within the most magnificent gardens.
Hotel Botanico PoolHotel Botanico GardensHotel Botanico RoomHotel Botanico, Tenerife
The hotel is conveniently located just a fifteen-minute stroll to the heart of Puerto de la Cruz. The town is alive with an array of fashion boutiques, jewellers, souvenir shops, and charming al fresco restaurants adorning the well-kept San Telmo promenade, which stretches from the town to the sun-kissed beach, a haven for both surfers and sun worshippers.
At the heart of the promenade lies the Lago Martiánez, also known as the Complejo Turistico Costa Martianez, created by the renowned artist César Manrique back in 1977. This open-air series of lidos centres around an artificial lake and features a complex of pools, islands, gardens, terraces, and inviting restaurants. Admission is just 5.50 euros per adult and 2.50 euros per child per day, with additional charges for loungers and parasols.
Puerto de la Cruz takes great pride in its locally harvested wine from the nearby Orotava Valley. This delightful tipple can be savoured in combination with the town’s broad selection of international dishes, served in the numerous restaurants that grace both the historic town centre and the scenic promenade.
Lago Martiánez, Puerto de la Cruz, TenerifePuerto De La CruzSan Telmo Promenade, Puerto de la Cruz, TenerifePuerto de la Cruz, Tenerife
Jardin Botanico
The Jardin Botanico is one of the most famous gardens in the Canaries and dates to the 18th Century. It was created by the Royal Order of Carlos III as there was a requirement to cultivate species from the tropics in Spain with a suitable climate.
Nestled in the heart of Tenerife, the gardens are a botanical oasis where nature’s wonders flourish. This lush garden spans over 12 acres and hosts a mesmerizing collection of both native and tropical plant species. The Jardin Botanico offers a captivating glimpse into Tenerife’s remarkable biodiversity.
Jardin Botanico, TenerifeJardin Botanico, Puerto de la Cruz, TenerifeJardin Botanico, Flora
San Cristobal de la Laguna
Just 30 minutes on the bus from Puerta de la Cruz will bring you to San Cristóbal de La Laguna, often referred to simply as La Laguna. Its well-preserved old town, a UNESCO World Heritage site, boasts narrow cobbled streets, colourful colonial buildings, and charming squares. The city is home to the University of La Laguna, which contributes to its vibrant atmosphere.
With a rich history dating back to the 15th century, La Laguna offers visitors a glimpse into its past through architectural marvels like the stunning Cathedral of San Cristóbal.
Beyond its historical allure, the city provides a hub for cultural events, making it a must-visit destination in the authentic Tenerife.
San Cristobal de la Laguna, TenerifeSan Cristobal de la Laguna Street ArtSan Cristobal de la LagunaSan Cristobal de La Laguna Cafe
Santa Cruz de Tenerife
Santa Cruz de Tenerife, is the capital of Tenerife. This dynamic city blends modernity with historical charm. Its heart, Plaza de España, is surrounded by striking architecture, including the iconic Auditorio de Tenerife.
The city offers vibrant shopping streets, diverse dining experiences, and lively markets like the Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África. The palm-tree-lined Rambla de Santa Cruz provides a stroll, while the picturesque Parque García Sanabria offers a green retreat.
If you get the chance to visit during the Carnival of Santa Cruz de Tenerife, then you will be sure to truly understand the culture and spirit of this lovely city.
Candelaria
I was told that Tenerife is shaped like a duck and for my final stop, I visited the town of Candelaria located in the neck of Tenerife’s eastern coast.
This town is renowned for its Basilica of Our Lady of Candelaria, a significant pilgrimage site dedicated to the patron saint of the Canary Islands. The Plaza de la Patrona de Canarias, adorned with Guanche king statues, lies in front of the basilica.
For history check out the Guanche Mummies Museum, which offers insights into the indigenous Guanche people. Candelaria also boasts a scenic seaside promenade, which is great for walks and dining options. The annual Feast of the Virgin draws pilgrims and contributes to the town’s vibrant cultural calendar.
The Island of La Gomera
If you love nature and the authentic Canaries then how about combining Tenerife with another Canary Island – La Gomera!
Getting to La Gomera is easy with up to seven ferries a day from Los Cristianos in Tenerife to La Gomera. Prices are about 45-80 euros one way per person.
The island of La Gomera is famous for its Garojonay National Park up high in the mountains which is a magnet for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. Valle del Rey on the West coast is a fascinating old hippy town while in the east the capital of San Sebastian de La Gomera is reputed to be the last stop that Christopher Columbus made before heading off to discover the New World.
If a two-centre island holiday appeals, then many visitors to La Gomera choose to stay in the south at the magnificent Hotel Jardin Tecina and Golf. This stylish hotel features typically styled Canarian rooms, a fabulous choice of restaurants, a beautiful spa and tropical gardens not forgetting a superb 18-hole golf course.
La GomeraValle Del Rey, La GomeraSantiago de La Gomera
The Authentic Tenerife
North Tenerife is a region brimming with fascinating history, authentic charm and natural beauty. As well as the towns and villages I have highlighted you can also explore Mount Teide or the Anaga Rural Park which reveals untouched forests, rugged cliffs, and isolated villages, where traditional Canarian culture thrives.
For a true taste of local cuisine, dive into the bustling markets, sample authentic Canarian dishes, and savour Tenerife’s acclaimed wines. North Tenerife and the island of La Gomera, weaves together history, breathtaking landscapes, and warm communities, offering travellers an authentic Canarian experience.
For more information, a good place to start is to visit the Spanish Tourist Office website or contact your local travel agent or tour operator.
